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Old 09-06-2014, 10:49 AM   #1
driverofchuckles
 
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Angry Ready to scream at my oil filter

I'm changing my oil. I'll admit, this is only the 4th time I've done this. I'm an aircraft mechanic. I'm used to torque ranges and data on how tight a threaded connection should be. I cannot find anything on the oil filter and after tightening it down there is a leak. Not pouring out but a steady stream for almost a minute then it stops. How many turns or how tight am I supposed to go?
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #2
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I hand-tighten mine as good as I can. Never a leak. Are you 100% sure it isn't cross-threaded? If not, throw it away and get a new one and see if the problem persists.
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:12 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driverofchuckles View Post
I'm changing my oil. I'll admit, this is only the 4th time I've done this. I'm an aircraft mechanic. I'm used to torque ranges and data on how tight a threaded connection should be. I cannot find anything on the oil filter and after tightening it down there is a leak. Not pouring out but a steady stream for almost a minute then it stops. How many turns or how tight am I supposed to go?
Sounds like a bad seal on the filter, or the mating surface for the seal is not clean...I use a filter socket to remove and install my filters...once the filter seal makes contact I tighten it another 3/4 to a full turn...never had one leak...
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:16 AM   #4
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Just picked up a new filter and a filter socket. Thank you for the tips! Now to find my socket wrench.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:25 PM   #5
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Make sure u lube the filter seal before install with little bit of oil with aftermarket filters also make sure the old seal is not stuck on and u double seal it cos will leak ...hand tight snug , I use Toyota filter they are lubed and work best .

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Old 09-06-2014, 12:30 PM   #6
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Uh oh an aircraft mechanic who goes by the book. I respect that but lets not overthink this...OK?

Technically how much you tighten it depends on the pitch of the thread. For instance Suzuki motorcycles have an extremely fine thread and the oil filters take TWO TURNS to tighten. Tighten it a turn and a half and I GUARANTEE it will leak.

The amount to tighten it is usually printed on the filter itself. That's EXACTLY what you want to tighten it 99% of the time.

Also every time you remove an oil filter check to make sure the rubber gasket didn't stick to the block and its on the old filter! If you put a new oil filter on an old gasket it will leak impressively!

PS the Honda factory manual says tighten the oil filter for my ST1300 motorcycle to 22 ft lbs. Some of the people on the website have jumped thru hoops to torque it to that. BIG MISTAKE because its a bear to get off again if you do that!
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:25 PM   #7
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Damn right I go by the book! ☺

I use Bosch filters and after finally getting my view to line up with the seal point, found that I had a few more turns to go. No leaks!
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:32 PM   #8
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Automotive mechanic here, Just make sure you got the old rubber off then just tighten it up a quarter turn past hand tight with a filter wrench (I know you aren't supposed to I only say this because it's leaking on him)and you will be fine and dandy. Also, don't forget to lube the filter seal with a smear of oil first.

Dunno what toyota says but in my tech books from school it actually just says as tight as you can get with your hand unless other wise stated in the FSM.

If you don't want to use the wrench to tighten it that extra bit then just use a rag and two hands to get as much grip as you can and tighten it that way. There really isn't anything you can fuck up, it's not a cylinder head you're bolting on.



I have a friend who is an aircraft mechanic and she has much the same questions, everything needs a torque spec for her lol.
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:46 PM   #9
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Damn right I go by the book! ☺
I guess you have absolutely no choice but to do that, all things considered. However many people may die in the process!

Here is a little story for you however.

I build circuit boards and things to NASA specs for the space shuttle, space station and all kinds space going and military things that are a BIG DEAL. I wouldn't DREAM of doing it their way if I thought better of it!

In 1996 my company built a $15 million dollar solid state data recorder for EOS 1 (earth observing satellite) probably the most involved landsat ever launched. It cost a billion dollars. All of our previous ones were tape based. (RCA)

They called the three of us in a room, told us what had to be done, and gave us three months to build the 150 boards that went into it. I told my bosses "You better assign another three people to this job because we wont be done in six months!" No they said its going to be just the three of you.

(it took 12 people a year, eventually)

Early on building the boards each memory board (there were like 135 of them) had 22 terminals that had to be swaged in place with a special elliptical swedge, then soldered. Only problem was the boards were so big the throat of the machine that held the tools for the swaging the terminals wouldn't accommodate the entire board. Incredibly, this held up production for a month while the engineers farted around!

There was a NASA "referee" overseeing us who talked with management of the plant on a daily basis. I went up to him and said "If you let me I can swedge these terminals with a Philips screwdriver and a ball peen hammer and we can get these boards moving!" Like me he was very concerned about the delay.

He looked both ways to make sure no one could hear him, thought about it for a while and told me to go ahead and do it!

I did the work as described, the boards were built and tested, the device built, put in the spacecraft and launched, the EOS orbited the earth for eight years, worked perfectly, and was deorbited and burned up in the atmosphere so no one will ever see the marks from the Philips screwdriver I used!

PS Although it took almost two years for us to build the device, other contractors building THEIR junk for the spacecraft took even longer to do their jobs (probably waiting for engineers to make up their minds!) so nobody noticed how late we were doing our job!
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:00 PM   #10
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Damn right I go by the book!

I use Bosch filters and after finally getting my view to line up with the seal point, found that I had a few more turns to go. No leaks!

I had issues with a bosh filter. Never again.

It started leaking after a couple months. I had not done my 5000 miles yet. And it would leak a little bit. I would tighten it and it stopped for a bit. Then it again 2 weeks later.
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:22 PM   #11
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I use Toyota filters and filter socket that fits my ⅜ drive ratchet. Never have any problems tightening it or removing it. Goes on and off like a giant nut and never leaks.


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Old 09-06-2014, 07:14 PM   #12
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+1 to many others in this thread. make sure the old oil filter gasket is off


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