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Old 11-12-2018, 10:45 AM   #1
WHATSaDavid
 
Drives: 2006 Yaris 3-Door Manual
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Canada, Alberta
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06 Throttle Body Swap Strange Issue

So I did my TB swap, all went good except for a vacuum leak which I fixed, the strange thing I have now is if I drive my car before its fully warmed up (cool indicator turns off) it will do this strange revving when I come to a stop. It with rev up to 2.5 and down to 1 3 times and then settle. Don't know if its related but I also notice that when clutching in the revs will kind of hold for about half a second to a second and then fall. I cleaned the TB before the swap and I got it from a 06 Matrix.

Other than that when its fully warm its great, really responsive, I accelerate quicker, and it'll feel smoother at idle.
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:50 AM   #2
tmontague
 
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This is somewhat normal behavior that I noticed after I did the TB swap. It seems to even out when I played with the idle speed screw a bit but i also swapped the chip over to the 1zz TB from my 1nz TB.

Keep in mind this is also normal behavior if you have recently reset the ecu.

With the 1zz TB the cold idle was very high for a few mins, around 3k rpm iirc
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:39 PM   #3
DarkShadowFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
This is somewhat normal behavior that I noticed after I did the TB swap. It seems to even out when I played with the idle speed screw a bit but i also swapped the chip over to the 1zz TB from my 1nz TB.

Keep in mind this is also normal behavior if you have recently reset the ecu.

With the 1zz TB the cold idle was very high for a few mins, around 3k rpm iirc
can someone fix the guide i cant seem to find it and i want to get the TB soon its cheap.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:53 PM   #4
WHATSaDavid
 
Drives: 2006 Yaris 3-Door Manual
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
This is somewhat normal behavior that I noticed after I did the TB swap. It seems to even out when I played with the idle speed screw a bit but i also swapped the chip over to the 1zz TB from my 1nz TB.

Keep in mind this is also normal behavior if you have recently reset the ecu.

With the 1zz TB the cold idle was very high for a few mins, around 3k rpm iirc
Ah ok, I didn't swap the chip. I found that after warm up I idle around at .6 so I didn't adjust the idle... it also has no reason to do with the idle screw stripping itself when I tired to turn it. (rolls eyes) Honestly though I went to turn it and it just went CRACK and was stripped in one fell swoop. I heard this is kinda a normal thing to happen. All in all I just wanted to make sure nothing was going wrong.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:18 PM   #5
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHATSaDavid View Post
Ah ok, I didn't swap the chip. I found that after warm up I idle around at .6 so I didn't adjust the idle... it also has no reason to do with the idle screw stripping itself when I tired to turn it. (rolls eyes) Honestly though I went to turn it and it just went CRACK and was stripped in one fell swoop. I heard this is kinda a normal thing to happen. All in all I just wanted to make sure nothing was going wrong.
both of these things is why you have an issue. you might have to drill out the screw now. also, this is a cold idle screw, so when it is warm, adjustment of the screw will not make much difference...
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:26 PM   #6
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
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Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
can someone fix the guide i cant seem to find it and i want to get the TB soon its cheap.

it's easy. take your yaris throttle body. drill out the rivets on the electric box. take your 1zz throttle body and drill out the rivets on the electric box. inside the box is the chip/circuit board. it can just be pulled out with your fingers. no tools needed. remove 1zz circuit board, install yaris circuit board. seal the electric box with nut's and bolts, maybe some washers.
total time: 30 minutes or less
skill level: poser

remove sealant from throttle body that covers the idle screw. it is the only thing that is not made of metal. the cold idle adjust screw needs to be adjusted by ear/eye with the rpm. winter works well, as it is extra cold outside.in my experience, you need to start the car and adjust the screw until rpm is about 2000-2100. this was as low as i could get, keeping warm idle at at 550 rpm. if you don't adjust screw, cold idle might be 2500, maybe higher if really cold. warm idle could be at 750 rpm, maybe a bit higher. there is a possibility you could pop a MIL...
total time after removal of sealant: 5 minutes (if screw is functioning, not stripped)
skill level: bicycle mechanic

Last edited by SirDigby; 11-14-2018 at 09:36 PM.
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