Blitz S/C + Cruise Control?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

I've got one of those on there already. When I get on it when the car is cold it seems to just sit at 0 until it gets warm. Think I just need to tighten the S/C down on the manifold or tighten the manifold down to the block?

Maybe. You might have a slight leak that seals up when things swell with heat. With the switch in the "low" position, I see boost pulling out of my driveway.

[47_MasoN_47]

Here's a little video of how it's behaving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-wgrJeqEMc

The gauges are (left to right) boost, oil pressure, oil temperature.

[CTScott]

The other thing it may be, besides the seal leaking, is the belt slipping.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm. I need some way to put a camera in the engine bay so I can see what's going on in there while the engine is under load. The belt has been letting one or two little squeaks upon startup lately, but it's been behaving like this ever since I've had boost (this is not the same belt I started with).

Also, checked the AFR and it seems to hover around the 14.7 range even when under pretty heavy throttle. Is that a dangerous level to run with S/C?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Hmm. I need some way to put a camera in the engine bay so I can see what's going on in there while the engine is under load. The belt has been letting one or two little squeaks upon startup lately, but it's been behaving like this ever since I've had boost (this is not the same belt I started with).

Also, checked the AFR and it seems to hover around the 14.7 range even when under pretty heavy throttle. Is that a dangerous level to run with S/C?

14.7 is dangerous under boost and would explain why you sometimes get the lean code.

For the cold boost issue, I would tighten the belt a few more turns of the bolt and see if that does it. My experience is that if the belt squeals for a second on start-up that it definitely will slip when the S/C engages.

[47_MasoN_47]

Blarg. I emailed Garm about it, seems like he said that he had a means to tune that Blitz controller thing to compensate for being lean.

I'll try tightening the belt and see what happens. For good measure I'll go ahead and make sure all the manifold bolts are tight too.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Blarg. I emailed Garm about it, seems like he said that he had a means to tune that Blitz controller thing to compensate for being lean.

I'll try tightening the belt and see what happens. For good measure I'll go ahead and make sure all the manifold bolts are tight too.

Larger injectors and higher fuel pressure are a couple tricks that people have used, besides switching to a F/IC.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm... what injectors would you recommend? Also would that be cheaper than going the F/IC route? I mean I still want to do it at some point, but I can't afford to drop another g right now.

[cali yaris]

^ 1ZZ injectors are the next size up.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Hmm... what injectors would you recommend? Also would that be cheaper than going the F/IC route? I mean I still want to do it at some point, but I can't afford to drop another g right now.

The 1ZZ injectors can be picked up used for around $100 for a set.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok cool, well I've got a set of 1zz from a Celica coming. I really wish I had thought/known about this earlier... my fiance's mom totaled her Corolla a couple months ago. I probably could have just stolen the injectors from that and stuck my Yaris ones back in it without anyone knowing. It wouldn't run anyway. Would have saved me a little money, lol.

So, if I drop these 1zz in there will the ECU not be able to keep the AFR at that 14 range?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Ok cool, well I've got a set of 1zz from a Celica coming. I really wish I had thought/known about this earlier... my fiance's mom totaled her Corolla a couple months ago. I probably could have just stolen the injectors from that and stuck my Yaris ones back in it without anyone knowing. It wouldn't run anyway. Would have saved me a little money, lol.

So, if I drop these 1zz in there will the ECU not be able to keep the AFR at that 14 range?

It will try to trim the extra fuel away, but the larger injectors supply enough extra to keep the ECM from trimming it all away.

[47_MasoN_47]

Nice. I really appreciate all the help you've been over the years.

BTW do you have any other suggestions of stuff I should do to help the car out now that it's boosted? I switched to synthetic oil (mobil 1) when I went boost already. I've got a decent amount of other mods done. I just updated my garage so that everything's up to date if you want to look that over. I do plan on going F/IC at some point.

[47_MasoN_47]

This whole "your engine might be completely fubar" thing doesn't make me real happy.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Nice. I really appreciate all the help you've been over the years.

BTW do you have any other suggestions of stuff I should do to help the car out now that it's boosted? I switched to synthetic oil (mobil 1) when I went boost already. I've got a decent amount of other mods done. I just updated my garage so that everything's up to date if you want to look that over. I do plan on going F/IC at some point.

That's really about it. Keeping the AFR in a safe range, running high octane fuel, and occasionally doing a compression check is all that I do with mine.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok.

I haven't measured my AFR at WOT. Is that the only position where it really matters? I was just thinking that it seems like under normal conditions the ECU would probably maintain that 14.7 AFR even with the stock airbox during normal conditions. It would make sense that under WOT I could be lean (since that's what I was doing when I got the lean code that one time) but for the most part it seems like it would be ok where it is?

Just trying to clarify. The car seems to be running fine. I turned the boost off for the time being (jesus these cars are slow without boost, I forgot what that's even like) and am going to get my fiance to help me with the compression test tonight.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Ok.

I haven't measured my AFR at WOT. Is that the only position where it really matters? I was just thinking that it seems like under normal conditions the ECU would probably maintain that 14.7 AFR even with the stock airbox during normal conditions. It would make sense that under WOT I could be lean (since that's what I was doing when I got the lean code that one time) but for the most part it seems like it would be ok where it is?

Just trying to clarify. The car seems to be running fine. I turned the boost off for the time being (jesus these cars are slow without boost, I forgot what that's even like) and am going to get my fiance to help me with the compression test tonight.

You are concerned about AFR anytime the needle moves out of the vacuum range and into the boost range. The AFR should decrease proportionally as boost increases. I seldom go near WOT, but at max boost (6 psi) I run about 12. As soon as I cross zero into boost range I see the AFR decrease to about 14.3, and then by 3 psi I am down to about 13.6.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm ok. I think I'll try another run today and see if it behaves the same way as yours.