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Old 07-23-2016, 09:01 PM   #1
SirDigby
 
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DO NOT USE A/C PRO!!!

this is a warning: DO NOT USE A/C PRO! It will ruin your a/c system and cost you thousands of dollars!
A/C pro contains stop-leak. stop-leak is aerobic, meaning it reacts with oxygen. when it reacts it becomes rock hard.
if your system has a leak, r134a has exited the system, and outside air has entered in it's place. this means EVERY COMPOINENT HAS OXYGEN CONTAMINATION. If you do not pull the system into a deep vacuum before using this product, (remove oxygen from system) every item in the system will be covered with stop leak and will become rock hard and will not function. this means that EVERY COMPOINENT WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, sensors, lines, receiver/dryer, FOT's, etc. EVERYTHING!
do not try to save $150. you will cost yourself $4000
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:28 PM   #2
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Last week I thought of doing that and did some research via youtube videos.

The thing to also include is that some shops will not work on your vehicle if they heard that you used something like A/C Pro because they don't want to damage their own equipment.

Still thinking about adding insulation though.
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Old 07-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #3
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I have used their products over the years on quite a few cars and have never had issues. My last specific recollection of using it was on my 98 Subaru Forrester, which had 110K mikes on it. It was a spare car and sitting outside, not being driven for an entire summer the AC seals dried up enough for it to leak out about half of its charge. I recharged it with and AC PRO refill and seal kit and 10 years later (and now over 200K miles on it) the friend that I sold the car to can't believe that the AC still works perfectly.

The key with AC is never trying to recharge a fully discharged system, as that is when you will be dealing with air in the system. If the car still has at least a partial charge, then air can not enter the system. The other key is not blindly filling the system, but rather using a proper gauge set to verify that both the low and high pressure sides are at proper pressures.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:37 PM   #4
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if you can afford a proper gauge set, then you can afford to repair it properly.
if you leak is near the compressor, like at the connection, it is powerful enough to draw air into the system; also if your leak is at a place of pressure change, like an expansion valve, less likely but still could draw air into the system.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirDigby View Post
if you can afford a proper gauge set, then you can afford to repair it properly.
if you leak is near the compressor, like at the connection, it is powerful enough to draw air into the system; also if your leak is at a place of pressure change, like an expansion valve, less likely but still could draw air into the system.
With a pressurized system, you can not draw air in, until the pressure drops below atmospheric pressure. On the low pressure side of the compressor a charged system has over 20 psi of pressure minimum. If the system fully discharges, then the compressor will absolutely suck air in through the leak, but until it fully discharges it can not.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:37 PM   #6
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On top of that, if the system is discharged the compressor won't run because the pressure sensor prevents it. If you're at that point, you need a proper assessment of the condition of the system.
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