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11-02-2006, 02:32 AM | #1 |
Drives: Yaris 3dr Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: South Carolina, USA
Posts: 255
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What things should they have checked when I bought a new car?
well i am taking it in to the dealers so i guess the post isnt so important. If anybody wants to give a list of things that should have been checked at the dealership that would be awesome.
Last edited by BMGYaris; 11-02-2006 at 10:15 AM. Reason: taking it in to the dealers |
11-02-2006, 09:22 AM | #2 |
HardlyDangerous
Drives: 09 Yaris LE, H/B, auto Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ridgeway Ontario
Posts: 573
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Is this your first new car?
alignment issues are very common with ANY new car. 4 PSI under? under what? A road force test is the best possible tire test to check for tire problems and proper balance . No they should not have to check the alingment or the suspension, They don't build the cars they sell them and repair them when you have a problem. The car will down shift when applying the brakes in some cases, other times ABS may kick in if the road are wet. Your driving habits as well as the engine not completely broken in are likely causing the poor mileage.
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The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. |
11-02-2006, 10:31 AM | #3 | |
Drives: Yaris 3dr Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: South Carolina, USA
Posts: 255
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Quote:
In response to your questions/comments. 1) 4 PSI under manufact. suggestions on both front 2)The actual documentation said that there was a problem with my road force, that is what confused me. it also included stuff about ordering parts though they told me that there was nothing ordered (this is the same dealership that tried to sale me a used sedan yaris for 2,000 dollars over its new MSRP price...and then claimed..."oops, we looked at the wrong price" 3) I dont have ABS 4) What im talking about with the downshifting, is that if i will very very lightly tap my breaks, the car will sometimes downshift and start making a whirring grinding sound even though my speed is reading the exact same 5) I drive 95% or more in continuously moving traffic of 45-80 mph, there is no real city traffic over here. I dont gun it ont he occasion i am at a stop light. On my last tank i drove about 80 while in my of time i was on the interstate (about 85% of my total driving) so i would not expect to get 39mpg, I got 29 mpg on my first tank, that was ok, but 24 on my second. However 24 is indicative of a problem and i believe is lower than the lowest possible predicted value in the EPA rating (which is too account for margain of error) so if i am below the large swath of numbers that are part of the margain of error in the EPA rating then i suppose the car has a problem. And when mpg drops 5 mpg and i am driving even slower and taking off from red lights the same and the traffic is just as constant i dont see anything to have caused such a dramatic decrease? |
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