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Old 06-07-2019, 04:07 PM   #1
seatech30
 
Drives: Yaris 2008 Sedan
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: California
Posts: 75
Mystery(misery?) vibration, I am determined to find a solution.

I almost didn't want to make this post because I know it probably wont go anywhere, but I have to give it another go, hopefully my new observations can trigger someone's intuition or memory.

I've been up and down google with all sorts of keywords, and picking up cookie crumbs. I have 2 yaris (2008 sedan automatic, 1NZ-FE) now with this vibration issue, and a 2015 Corolla that's very faintly developing the vibration too.

As per usual and so many posts, I have cleaned MAF, TB, new plugs, PCV, hearing test on fuel injectors, all coil resistances are close, same with fuel injectors, even swapped the exhaust rubber holders, oh and yes all 3 (4?) mounts. I've tried filling in the mounts with polyurethane, the dogbone almost rattled the car (much worse), so I put the other one back. The transmission mount, I only filled the "top" gap, but left the bottom one clear. I have played with all hoses and nothing. I checked grounds on harnesses, as some claimed a ground kit helped their vibration. All were matched except the TB metal housing showed a higher voltage offset by about 0.25V.

From my searches, I'm suspecting a bad alternator, axle shafts, or TB.

When the car is running, in N, it shows about 13.5V, then if put it in D, it drops 13.4, if I put the AC on, rear defrost and hold the windows up, it'll go as low as 12.2V. From this post it seems very likely that this could be the culprit, if anyone without a vibration issue could confirm their voltage doesn't drop this much, I'd greatly appreciate it. One from Toyotapartsdeal is $454, rock auto has reman for $170-200. Does anyone have any experience with the remans by any chance?

When I lift the car up and rotate the wheels forward and back, there's some give, but there is a lot of clickety clackety that seems to come from the transmission. I need to compare this to my older yaris, but I think it is normal. Perhaps I can post a video if that might help someone give me a clue? Cost seems to be around $700+ for both axles. From what I've read it's best to stay away from aftermarket ones. This would require me to do fluid change, which I have to do anyways, so that's probably closer to $800.

Finally, the TB, I don't have any ideas as to why this could be bad, just I've seen too many posts with it as a culprit. The RPMs dip below 650, 620 even 600 in D. When in N it stays within spec 700-750, and vibrations are not as pronounced. Cost $413.

There seems to be a definite correlation with engine load and or electrical current draw, as the radiator fan also causes the vibrations to worsen.

I've been breaking my head over this for a while now, so I apologise if I sound whiny or abrasive, just frustrated. I would really not want to spend $1500 to find out these didn't work.

Edit: after a long drive and mulling over this issue, I came to a realization that the 120Nm of force to tighten the back bottom mount basically "welds" the two pieces that go in the back/bottom. With that in mind, I figured it's probably best to lift the engine/trans as high as the other mounts allow prior to tightening this bolt. I gave that a shot and the vibration was definitely dampened. This would explain why the vibration seemed to worsen even though I'd only messed with the back/bottom mount. Just thought I'd note that for anyone who comes along this post in the future. Still need to figure out why the engine is causing the vibration, though. I used a phone with a "spectroscope" app using the accelerometer, and the engine is the highest source of vibration. I was able to rule out the mounts definitively by placing the phone before and after each mount, and noting that there is basically no vibration passing through the mount. In other words, vibrations oj the side touching the engine/trans, and no vibration on the opposite connecting end to the car frame.

Last edited by seatech30; 06-11-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:49 AM   #2
Dragonslayer182
 
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 36
I have a little bit of vibration in my sedan, do you have a problem with squealing coming from the engine? It mostly happens during squealing, and so far neither a belt replacement nor an alternator replacement (It was going bad) has remedied to problem, although they did both stop the squeal for a few weeks at the most. I also notice symptoms of voltage drop when it squeals. (Slightly slower windshield wipers, slightly dimmer headlights)
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:34 PM   #3
seatech30
 
Drives: Yaris 2008 Sedan
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: California
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonslayer182 View Post
I have a little bit of vibration in my sedan, do you have a problem with squealing coming from the engine? It mostly happens during squealing, and so far neither a belt replacement nor an alternator replacement (It was going bad) has remedied to problem, although they did both stop the squeal for a few weeks at the most. I also notice symptoms of voltage drop when it squeals. (Slightly slower windshield wipers, slightly dimmer headlights)
Does the squealing happen when the car is on without A/C, and does turning the A/C make it worse? My belt used to squeal on cold days, particularly when turning the car on. For me that was just a loose belt. If the squealing is consistent and predictable, I'd take the belt off and see if the squealing goes away. If it does, (car off) check the pulleys on the compressor, hamonic balancer, and starter for any give or wiggle. It's hard to do. If the squealing still happens without the belt, then you may have another issue that I can't guess at.

The vibration for my two yaris is pretty noticeable, likewise when shifting into N, there's a significant reduction in vibration transfer into the cabin. When shifting back to D or R, there's a bit of a jolt as the transmission engages. As for the Corolla, I haven't played with it much, but it is much more subtle, mainly noticed it because I've been obsessing over this issue with my other cars.
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Old 06-15-2019, 07:29 AM   #4
Dragonslayer182
 
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 36
It's not exclusive to having the A/C on. In fact, I haven't noticed it making a difference, though I'll test it later today. It also seems to come at random except for when it's starting up, where it almost always squeals if it's not been on in an hour or two. Putting it into R or D usually makes it worse, likewise putting it into park usually helps stop it.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:48 PM   #5
seatech30
 
Drives: Yaris 2008 Sedan
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: California
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonslayer182 View Post
It's not exclusive to having the A/C on. In fact, I haven't noticed it making a difference, though I'll test it later today. It also seems to come at random except for when it's starting up, where it almost always squeals if it's not been on in an hour or two. Putting it into R or D usually makes it worse, likewise putting it into park usually helps stop it.
Yeah, I'd pull the belt and check on the pulleys for any give. Likewise, try in P, turn A/C on and rev the rpms up. When the belt is loose, you'll hear it slip more easily at higher rpms, but I'm sure if a pulley is bad it'll also do it.
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