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Old 09-15-2010, 11:46 AM   #1
Lil Abner
 
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Hatch light switch

Has anyone tried to re-wire the hatch switch in with the front door switches, then make the rear light tied into the dome light? I'd like to be able to open the hatch, and ALL the lights come on. I don't know if it's as simple as breaking the switch/bulb link in the rear, and just tying them into the front system?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:41 PM   #2
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It's doable, but not trivial. You would have to split the rear door courtesy switch from the light and then run a 2 conductor wire from the connector by the light to the under dash fuse panel. You will have to fool the body ECU into believing that the hatch courtesy switch is the same as one of the front door courtesy switches and you will have to connect the light's ground wire to the door switched ground that makes the dome light come on when the doors open.

Run the 2 conductor wire from the front to the rear
1. Pop the door skid trim piece on the driver's side.
2. Remove the driver's side kick panel.
3. (If doing this on a 5 door, remove the lower B pillar cover and the rear door skid trim piece).
4. Remove the left rear trim.


At the rear:
1. Find the junction connector J28 behind the left rear panel (it's a 12 pin connector).

Conn J28-J29.jpg

2. Cut the brown wire in pin 5 (between the orange and sky blue wires) .

Conn J28.jpg

3. Tape or cap off the connector end of the brown wire.
4. Connect the harness side of the brown wire to one of the conductors in the wire that you ran from the front to the back.
5. On the rear light assembly, cut the orange wire.
6. Tape/cap off the harness side of the orange wire.
7. Connect the light assembly side of the orange wire to the other conductor in the wire that you ran from the front.

At the front:
1. On the under dash fuse panel, locate connector 4K (pictured below with the pink, blue and white/black wires).
2. Connect the conductor from step 7 above (the wire connected to the orange wire of the light assembly) to the pink wire on connector 4K.



3. Locate connector 4A.
4. Connect the conductor from step 4 above (the wire connected to the brown wire from the hatch courtesy switch) to the red wire in pin 21 of connector 4A

Conn 4A 4B.jpg
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:50 PM   #3
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CT, you always go out of your way to help people and completely explain stuff. I mean, simple question and you break out diagrams and pics. AWESOME stuff!

I WISH there was a rep system on these boards. I would find myself repping you every chance I could get:)
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:58 PM   #4
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couldnt it be alot simplier? like could u not just pull the source of power (coming from the rear hatch switch) and connect it to the +12v side of the dome light?
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Old 09-15-2010, 04:07 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
couldnt it be alot simplier? like could u not just pull the source of power (coming from the rear hatch switch) and connect it to the +12v side of the dome light?
The light always has power, it's the ground that gets switched.

You could have the hatch courtesy switch create the ground for the dome, but then you'd have to add an isolation diode to avoid popping the DOME fuse and you would have to snake wires through the headliner. It's much easier to work where the plastic pieces
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Old 09-15-2010, 05:12 PM   #6
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CTScott, you are awesome! What you explained was exactly what I was thinking. And with the pictures and diagrams, now I don't need to go poking around, blowing fuses. :-) Thanks again, dude!!
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The light always has power, it's the ground that gets switched.

You could have the hatch courtesy switch create the ground for the dome, but then you'd have to add an isolation diode to avoid popping the DOME fuse and you would have to snake wires through the headliner. It's much easier to work where the plastic pieces
i never thought of that...... y on earth would they give the dome a constant power? wasnt that basically the issue with the honda fit and the window switch catching on fire?

but good call on the fact of the matter the plastic is alot easier to deal with.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:18 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
i never thought of that...... y on earth would they give the dome a constant power? wasnt that basically the issue with the honda fit and the window switch catching on fire?

but good call on the fact of the matter the plastic is alot easier to deal with.
That seems to be a common trend in car wiring - Everything is switched ground rather than switched power. On the Yaris, it really is just about everything (headlights, power windows, power locks, AC blower, evap emissions, etc.)
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:43 AM   #9
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well i suppose in some ways it could be cheaper, having only one main power wire going to the load in what ever case (dome light, headlight, locks, etc) and from there running the circuit "completer" wire (ground) to the individual switch(s) and grounding them out from there....

sorry to the op for hijacking this thread
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleey0 View Post
CT, you always go out of your way to help people and completely explain stuff. I mean, simple question and you break out diagrams and pics. AWESOME stuff!

I WISH there was a rep system on these boards. I would find myself repping you every chance I could get:)
Yes sir-CTScott is WAY overdue for the YarisWorld "Most Valuable Poster Award"! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here with us, CTScott (and Crashy, too!)

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Old 09-16-2010, 01:27 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
i never thought of that...... y on earth would they give the dome a constant power? wasnt that basically the issue with the honda fit and the window switch catching on fire?
Because it's safer to run power to the light and ground it past the load. It makes it impossible to short out at the switch because you don't have a live wire.

The switch in the door-jam is simply a spring loaded contact that grounds against the body when you open the door, completing the circuit and turning on the light. (basically)
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Because it's safer to run power to the light and ground it past the load. It makes it impossible to short out at the switch because you don't have a live wire.

The switch in the door-jam is simply a spring loaded contact that grounds against the body when you open the door, completing the circuit and turning on the light. (basically)


very well put, i never thought of it that way......
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
That seems to be a common trend in car wiring - Everything is switched ground rather than switched power. On the Yaris, it really is just about everything (headlights, power windows, power locks, AC blower, evap emissions, etc.)
they way i was told in auto classes ( am in college for associates degree in auto tech) was that due to possible voltage spikes, the ECM(s) are more easily protected if they only handle the ground side of the circuits. Also that ALL circuits go through an ECM no matter what the circuit is for. that was true back in the day but is true now.
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Old 09-18-2010, 01:24 PM   #14
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Just an update, I just finished this mod, and it works!! The hardest part was getting a T-tap on the Red wire on the 4A connector. There isn't much space up there.

Another thing to remember for anyone else, I have an 2009 LB. The "orange" color on the rear connectors is more like a peachy-brown color.

So again, thanks CTScott!!
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