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Old 07-12-2019, 02:36 AM   #1
mavrick
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris LiftBack
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 3
Fuel pump, sender, seal, wiring, and cluster

I have a 2008 yaris hatch and posting all the way from South Africa.

Initially my yaris did not want to start one day. It just kept swinging and swinging on the starter but didn't didn't fire and idle.

Mechanic poured fuel directly into the intake and it fired and ran. Immediately we knew it was a fuel pump issue.

Took the back seats out. And removed the seal with a hammer and screw driver. Took the pump entire housing out. And replaced it with a complete new unit. Filter pump and level sender.

New pump in and seal tightened. Started the vehicle and it runs. Vehicle electronic cluster shows 1 bar from full yet the tank is almost empty.

Took the car to the garage. Filled up a full tank and car took about 43 litres of fuel before I realized something was wrong. Lift the rear seat and the fuel was leaking out the top of the seal. Ordered a new seal from Toyota. It came as the plastic ring and the o ring. Ordered a tool to tighten the plastic ring as well. Problem is that what torque do I tighten the ring to ensure it does not leak and does not damage the o ring?

So I thought the level sender was stuck and by filling a full tank it would dislodge a 'stuck' sender. After driving about for a while with terrible fuel fumes I the car I realized the range meter was actually accurate but the levels on the cluster were still not accurate. It fluctuated between full and 1 block from full.

This completely messed with my brains. So I took a tester.

Ignition off. And I pulled the plug on the pump. Battery voltage was a steady 12v. The voltage at the connector was around 10v or 11v. I will confirm after measuring again. I am worried

The resistance also fluctuated accordingly when the fuel was at different levels. I will also confirm the ohms.

So I went to the scrap yard and got a scrap level sender to test. I compared my original sender that came from the factory to the scrap yard sensor and they both were the same. I then attached the original sensor to the connector and checked the fuel level. It still showed the same problem on the fuel level blocks. 1 block below empty.

I have a Bluetooth obd reader with the torque pro lite app for checking the ecu but I can't find any place where it gives me the ohms that the ecu senses. Is there any other way I can finds this out?

What can I do to get the cluster to reset and calibrate the fuel level? The range meter works perfectly though.

Thanks in advance for the help


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Old 07-12-2019, 02:56 AM   #2
24boosted
 
Drives: 09 yrs
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavrick View Post
Ordered a tool to tighten the plastic ring as well. Problem is that what torque do I tighten the ring to ensure it does not leak and does not damage the o ring?
The o-ring must sit properly as you tighten the fuel pump assembly retention ring. You tighten it until it stops. You can actually torque it down without too much concern. It will start flexing and you will notice the fuel tank move as you try to tighten it more. That is probably beyond the factory specs which will still be ok.

In terms of resetting the ecm and body ecu, disconnect the battery for at least 5 minutes. Turn the key to the ON position so that it drains any remaining voltage. Then plug the battery back in and the electronics should complete a total restart and check, including the electronic throttle body.

Did you purchase an OEM fuel pump assembly? I replaced the pump and sender with oem components and it works as usual.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:22 AM   #3
mavrick
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris LiftBack
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 3
Thank you for the reply. Here is what I figured out. I pulled the housing for the float and pump out. I tested the level sender and it was 15 to 100 ohms. Clearly not what the original sender range was. I took the old sender and replaced the new one.

The housing is an aftermarket housing that came complete with pump and level sender. The pump is slightly noisier than the old pump too.

I bought a new screw in cover and o ring from Toyota. It was ZAR 140.00. Tool was ZAR 170.00 from a local shop. Myself and the mechanic tightened the tank and much as we could but the fuel still leaks and the vapor gets into the car from between the cover and the part you tighten.

I put the o ring in then the housing and then tightened the seal. Is that the correct method?

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Old 07-17-2019, 01:47 AM   #4
24boosted
 
Drives: 09 yrs
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 22
My fuel pump didn't make anymore noise than before which was near silent.

When I put in the large o-ring, I made sure it made contact and sat flush at the top of the white locking retention ring before tightening. You may possibly have another leak elsewhere, at the threading where the o-ring sits or maybe from the filler tube. I would check elsewhere for leaks just in case.

Installation guide:
https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...96b43f81b3d982
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:47 AM   #5
mavrick
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris LiftBack
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 3
Thanks for the valuable information.

According to your post. You have in the following order:

Tank, fuel pump housing, gasket, retainer ring.

My set up is as per the documentation.
Tank, gasket, fuel pump and retainer ring.

I will get another gasket from Toyota for the area between fuel pump and retainer and see if it stops the leak.

Alternatively I'm just going to seal the space with pvc weld as I hate the smell of fumes in the car

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