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Old 11-27-2017, 04:26 PM   #1
Spud
 
Drives: Yaris 2010
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Yaris 1.3 VVTi automatic gearbox issue

Hi.........can anyone shed light on this please,

On restarting a hot engine the car will not go into gear. Once the engine has cooled down ( 20 mins ish ) it will then go into gear as normal and drives perfectly.

Cheers

Spud
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:01 AM   #2
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What is your milage?
The transmision in your car is not excactly automatic its semi automatic based on a manual transmision.
It happened to me last summer for once.
I called toyota and they said clutch set replacement time came.
I ve not changed my clutch set so far. My odometer at 140k km now.
Next week I will have it done.
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:47 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply.

It only has 45k and been in the family from new.
Not sure if this is the answer though......If we leave the engine running the car will run faultless all day. As soon as we switch the engine off and then restart the car the red gear wheel on the dash stays illuminated and the car won’t go into gear. Once it’s cooled down the red gear wheel goes out and everything is back to normal.
Not sure if this means the clutch needs replacing !!!
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Old 11-30-2017, 06:32 AM   #4
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Unless you are using the car in heavy traffic your clutch must be fine but it is common thing that mmt gearbox can make troubles if you use it in heavy traffic.
Mmt gearbox has a shift actuator, this actuator has a motor inside and if clutch actuator motor's brushes' dust goes into this actuator can cause short circuit, in this situation gearbox locks itself red gear symbol lights up and N(Neutral) shift indicator flashes.
There is a simple solution on this problem: Shift actuator can be isolated by a plastic head cover which is very easy to repair. The part I mentioned is a standart equipment for after 2011 mmt models.
I can clearly see you are the second owner of your car, and your car might have been used without knowledge by the former owner.
To avoid this trouble:
1- If you are waiting at the traffic lights don't wait to put into neutral.(This decreases wear and tear on the surface of clutch lining.The main idea is to prevent unnecessary clutching)
2- Do the same thing if you are in heavy traffic.(stop and go)
3- If you are driving up to the hill do not put into E(auto mod) always put into M(manual mod). This prevents up-shifting while you are going up to the hill.

Last edited by Freedomage; 12-04-2017 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 12-02-2017, 06:22 AM   #5
Spud
 
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Thanks again for your input.
I will see if I can get the part your talking about, this sounds like a possible cheap fix. Is the actuator easily accessible and easy to clean of any dust that may be in it?
Cheers
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:53 AM   #6
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https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...8Yj/s-l225.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WIMAA...PZn/s-l300.jpg
The part is above, first the whole one, you need to take the second(motor itself) one out if you can reach that part. I must say reaching that motor lil bit tricky its better if you lift your car up. You only need piece of cloth to clean it up.
Check the carbon brushes too makesure they are ok.

Last edited by Freedomage; 12-04-2017 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:35 PM   #7
Spud
 
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Thanks again for your help.
I’ll let you know how I get on
Cheers
Spud
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:43 PM   #8
Spud
 
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Back again.
All done but still have the same issue.

Any more ideas people........starting to get frustrated with this one.
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Old 01-08-2018, 09:21 AM   #9
Bluevitz-rs
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Is there some kind of temperature sensor that reads the clutch temps? My only guess with having no clue as to what transmission you have or how it works is that a temp sensor is heat soaking after shutdown and preventing the car from going into gear.

Can you hook up a scanner tool to see computer data?
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Old 01-14-2018, 02:49 PM   #10
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I have run the car up to normal temp, switched it off, restarted and car will not go into gear. At this point there are no fault codes. After 20 mins restart the car and it goes into gear normally, still no fault codes and no codes stored.
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