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Old 08-29-2012, 06:46 PM   #1
DeathBeard
 
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Is passenger drive axle hard to change?

Hey all,

I have a 2010 liftback with only 14K miles. I noticed after changing my oil, the passenger side axle has a blown boot (next to trans)..I don't trust the dealers here, namely their lack of professionalism and inept attitude. Is there a walkthrough on how to do this? Thanks in advance, all advice is appreciated. Also I was looking online and the price of the oem units are almost $400 dollars, any place online that you know of that sells oem units for less? My experience with Cardone (aftermarket) is crap
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:49 PM   #2
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On the Yaris both are relatively easy. The "Drive Shaft" section of the service manual explains the process (download from the Micro Image forum: http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...32-YARIS-FILES).

Basically, you drain the tranny, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, disconnect the tie rod end, stabilizer link, and ball joint, pull the steering knuckle off of the shaft, and then pop the drive shaft out of the tranny. When I did Crashy's, the hardest part was getting the axle nut off.

As for replacements, I bought a junkyard one for $50 off ebay that was in perfect shape.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:31 PM   #3
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It'll be under warranty. Just get it done for free, like I did.
If they fu*k anything up on it, make them fix it.
When I got warranty stuff done on mine, I bring it in, it's fixed the same day and cleaned. Never had a problem yet *knock on wood*
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:43 AM   #4
DebbyM46227
 
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I think it's kind of dumb to spend your own money on something that is a warranty issue. Find a different dealer.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:34 PM   #5
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You guys are right I am going to the dealer tomorrow and make it their problem. Hopefully won't get any grief on the tein stech springs
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Basically, you drain the tranny, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, disconnect the tie rod end, stabilizer link, and ball joint, pull the steering knuckle off of the shaft, and then pop the drive shaft out of the tranny.
.
Sorry to revive old thread, but this is the closest to a "DIY" I found.

So there's no two way about it? tie rod end, stabilizer link and ball-joint all have to be disconnected in order to finish the job? I'll need to find the torque specs for all these things...
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:50 PM   #7
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Or just check the fasteners for tightness a month later...
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:21 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
Or just check the fasteners for tightness a month later...
Let me tell you the story of a kid that didn't torque his axle nuts to specs and had to buy a second pair of brand new front bearings...

I was worried I would break bolts or tear rubber off of something, but all went better than expected. I did like CTScott said. I just finished replacing the two axles. Took me about 2 hours, but i still have to change the tranmission oil.

Note: if the lower ball joint is rust-locked into the spindle after you've removed the bolt, you can hit on the spindle with a mace to have the ball joint drop out.
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:06 PM   #9
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Is passenger drive axle hard to change?

By removing the two strut bolts one gets enuf room to take out the spindle, no need for lower ball joint and tie rod ... I think lol on the tie rod ball joint for sure


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