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Old 01-21-2009, 12:27 AM   #73
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiddlygoose View Post
OK, so I followed the first mod as CTScott knows... Then I followed the corrected 2nd version of the mod. I Left the first switch in the on position, Added a second push button switch with the 3 150 ohm resistors and it worked right up until the time I got up to highways speed. Then the darned light came back on. No amount of changing either switch changes anything at all.

Question. Can the dealer disable the entire TPMS system, even if it costs me? Has anyone had that done or know anything? I always check my own damed tires. I've never had anything like this to fall back on before and with my tire switching situation I'd just as soon loose TPMS all together at this point.
The dealer can't disable it.

Can you take some pictures of your wiring, so I can help you troubleshoot it?

Mine has been running fine disabled (no light) since I posted the updated version on 11/30/08.
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Old 01-21-2009, 12:52 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The dealer can't disable it.

Can you take some pictures of your wiring, so I can help you troubleshoot it?

Mine has been running fine disabled (no light) since I posted the updated version on 11/30/08.
I haven't even ef'd with the fix yet. I got just about every damn warning light on cause I switched steering wheel , rims, seats, seatbelts. At this point its probaly just easier for me to pull out the gauge cluster and pull the light bulbs out , Lol.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:20 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The dealer can't disable it.

Can you take some pictures of your wiring, so I can help you troubleshoot it?

Mine has been running fine disabled (no light) since I posted the updated version on 11/30/08.
Cool, I appreciate it. I think at this point I shall wait until it warms up above freezing. I nearly got frostbite on my fingers when I did this a few weeks ago... I will live with the light for now.
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Old 01-23-2009, 10:46 AM   #76
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I am still happily driving around TPWS light FREE!! I followed the 150 ohm procedure without a switch.
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Old 01-24-2009, 01:36 PM   #77
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I am still happily driving around TPWS light FREE!! I followed the 150 ohm procedure without a switch.

Like Linny Still no light
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:40 AM   #78
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Ok, so on a new project, I should use 130 ohm resistors, correct?
I have a bunch of 20 guage wire. Is that ok to use?
CTScott...how did you figure this shit out?
I have been working in the parts department of car dealers for the last 10 years and, from the things I've seen over the years, you never want to cut the factory wire harness. I will definitely leave enough wire where I can reconnect the SOB, but it still scares the crap out of me. It will be worth it to get rid of the cursed light, though.
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:58 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by ricktoyota73 View Post
Ok, so on a new project, I should use 130 ohm resistors, correct?
I have a bunch of 20 guage wire. Is that ok to use?
CTScott...how did you figure this shit out?
I have been working in the parts department of car dealers for the last 10 years and, from the things I've seen over the years, you never want to cut the factory wire harness. I will definitely leave enough wire where I can reconnect the SOB, but it still scares the crap out of me. It will be worth it to get rid of the cursed light, though.
110 to 150 ohm resistors will work - Just make sure they are 1/2 Watt.

Cutting into factory harnesses can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. I design more complex systems for a living, so I enjoy reverse engineering automotive systems.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:41 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
110 to 150 ohm resistors will work - Just make sure they are 1/2 Watt.

Cutting into factory harnesses can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. I design more complex systems for a living, so I enjoy reverse engineering automotive systems.
I sell auto parts and I honestly don't understand how half of this stuff works!
Thanks for the info. Hooking it up as soon as we get a weekend above freezing and I can stand to be out in the garage for a while.
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:09 PM   #81
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Just curious, if I'm not putting in a switch and don't care if I ever enable the system again, can I just cut and connect the wires to the resistor package instead of using tap splices?
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:24 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by ricktoyota73 View Post
Just curious, if I'm not putting in a switch and don't care if I ever enable the system again, can I just cut and connect the wires to the resistor package instead of using tap splices?
Yes you can.

I wrote it up with use of the tap splices keeping in mind that many people are not comfortable soldering under the dash (and in relatively close proximity to the passenger air bag).
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:07 PM   #83
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So, just using butt connectors not a good idea (uh huh huh huh...I said "butt" huh huh)?
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:15 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricktoyota73 View Post
Just curious, if I'm not putting in a switch and don't care if I ever enable the system again, can I just cut and connect the wires to the resistor package instead of using tap splices?
thats what i did and it works fine, i even removed both TPMS modules, one under the dash and one in the paneling behind the trunk. theres a good .02 lbs and weight saved!
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:18 PM   #85
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Funny about the weight savings!
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:28 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by ricktoyota73 View Post
So, just using butt connectors not a good idea (uh huh huh huh...I said "butt" huh huh)?
Butt connectors are fine - Just don't use big ones (unless you like that kind of thing...)
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:57 AM   #87
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When doing this will there still be an OBDII code? I ask because to pass emissions in PA you can't have any OBDII codes.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:47 AM   #88
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When doing this will there still be an OBDII code? I ask because to pass emissions in PA you can't have any OBDII codes.
The TPWS does not report codes over OBDII, so you should be fine. It's data is accessible over the CAN bus, but a Toyota specific communication tool is required to access the data.
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:55 PM   #89
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Does every yaris have it? I have the base with no AC 08. Any way to verify before I start looking for the module?
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #90
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Ok so to get rid of it without a switch all you have to do it start off with the light not on, turn off the car, unplug the thing, and cut the green and brown wire and connect them to eachother, and leave the harness unplugged?
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