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Old 02-14-2010, 04:34 PM   #19
CTScott
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Here's connector D19, which is the key sense connection (2 pin with yellow and white/black wires):

Conn D19 - Key sense.jpg
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:06 PM   #20
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Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:06 PM   #21
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Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?
The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:22 PM   #22
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First I have to say thanks to CTScott for the guide. Pictures and accurate location, plug and wire made it so much easier than the usual "installer-speak", just listing wire color.

I just installed a Hornet (DEI) remote starter/alarm/keyless entry combination in a 2007 Yaris for a family member that had power locks standard, but no remote. It went pretty smoothly but I thought I'd add my thoughts incase someone searches for this in the future.

Obviously, I had to find additional wiring information due to the alarm components not being covered in the guide. Most was straight forward, but I had to search 10+ threads for the domelight wire as I found it listed as "fusebox, pink wire". Well there's probably more than 10 pink wires in that location. For the record it's the pink (-) in a six pin plug, with only a blue (+) and a white/black stripe occupying the plug. See pic here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...e+light&page=3

Other items were how to take some things apart. Plastic is easy to break, so I wasted time searching multiple threads for the correct way to take things out. I hadn't worked on a Toyota in years and amazed that a lot of things just snap together. But knowing exactly how saves fiddling time.

Glovebox: slide small rod off on lower right-hand side and then just squeeze the sides and pull-out one side, then the other.
Lower steering column shroud: 2 screws obscured by steering wheel, 1 screw underneath right of column height adjustment. Then squeeze sides of lowershroud (there are 2 clips on either side). I made the mistake of sticking my hand underneath and trying to flick the tab off on one side. It broke off, fixed with glue, but was needless.
Small pull out drawer in front of fuse box: squeeze and pull out one side, then other.

The door sill is only held in by clips, just pull up. This allows you to remove the driver's side kick panel to get to wiring for keyless entry. Kick panel has a clip on it's left side and a bolt on the right side. I just pulled on the left and then rotated it out of the way.

For console, just pull lower center colsole panel (panel below hvac controls). Then pull the larger piece around the gear-shift plate. I didn't need to go any further than this for console.

One other item that sucked my time was finding a suitable spot to get wires from the engine bay to the cabin. While most keyless remotes have one 12+ contant power requirement, my combo unit had a "relay" satellite that required two 12 + constant power, so I had to run the second direct to the battery, plus there's the hood pin switch (grounds when hood up, can't start or sets off alarm) and siren. There's an excellent spot on the passenger side, very high up on the firewall partially obscured by wire looms. It's a hole with a rubber plug. I drilled the plug which became a grommet. This is why I had to remove the glove box. Be carefull to drill straight or more towards the passenger side as there's HVAC pipes very close on the driver's side of the hole in the cabin.

Other than that, there were just a few things with the unit I bought, such as programming the unit to do a double (-) pulse for opening all doors. Initially it would only open and lock the driver's door.

I would also say that if it's your first time doing this (as it was for me), take it easy and do it in two days. I rushed it in 1 day, finished at about 2 am and although satisfying to test it out and have it work, I paid for it the next day. After soldering, taping, contorting, I over-exerted myself. I woke up at 4 am with pain bad enough in my right arm to obviously wake me up, lol. A couple ice-packs later and I could actually sleep. So don't do as I did and do what I say instead...lol.
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Old 08-31-2010, 05:02 PM   #23
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I have a 09 yaris s with immobilizer and factory keyless. I am trying to install a 1155tl but am having two problems.

One I can't find a negative pulse trigger from the factory keyless?? or postive.

And do I have to use the key to unlock the door once remote started???


Thanks
mark
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:52 PM   #24
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Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:01 PM   #25
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Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.
Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:34 PM   #26
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Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark
If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:39 PM   #27
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If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?
Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:53 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982 View Post
Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark
There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:59 PM   #29
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There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.
Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:05 PM   #30
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Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark
I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:50 PM   #31
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I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.
Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:21 AM   #32
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Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)
The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:10 PM   #33
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The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.
I have it working but now there is a new problem I cannot get it to respond when I program the unit for more then one pulse. I can get it to work on one pulse but when I go to unlock the car it will shut off. Hence why I need it to work with more then one pulse.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:41 PM   #34
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FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:37 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982 View Post
FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:26 PM   #36
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The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.
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