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Old 10-15-2010, 01:42 PM   #55
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4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

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Check the 4A wires relative to this:
Conn 4A 4B.jpg

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:47 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Check the 4A wires relative to this:
Attachment 37551

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.
Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...
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Old 10-15-2010, 02:05 PM   #57
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Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...
OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:56 PM   #58
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OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.
Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:01 PM   #59
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Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?
Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:09 PM   #60
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Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.
Got to browsing some of the other threads... Would there be a down side to tapping this pink wire for the door trigger for the alarm?

Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=14
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:12 PM   #61
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Got to browsing some of the other threads... Would there be a down side to tapping this pink wire for the door trigger for the alarm?

Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=14
You'd have to try it with your particular alarm. Others have had issues with the alarm not liking the slow fade from ground to +12 when the doors are closed.
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Old 11-11-2010, 02:12 PM   #62
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Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:10 PM   #63
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Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?
Ignition switched or constant?
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:01 PM   #64
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They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:27 PM   #65
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They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."
OK - Tie both to the constant power point that I show on the under dash fuse panel. On the Yaris, everything that the remote starter is switching is low current. On some cars, the ignition switch directly switches the starter solenoid, so the remote starters have the high current feeds for that reason.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:04 PM   #66
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I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:39 PM   #67
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I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.
Can you snap a picture of the drivers side kick plate connectors? The service manual shows GD1 and GD2 as being flipped on the sedan vs. on the liftback.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:50 PM   #68
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Here it is. Looks the same as in your manual.

kick.jpg
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:09 PM   #69
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OK - looks like a misprint in the service manual (and not the first that I've run into), as that bottom connector is definitely GD1.

Measure the voltage on the blue wire on the bottom row (next to the large orange) while locking/unlocking with your keyfob. If that wire's voltage doesn't change when the lock clicks, then you may have to use the large orange (lock motor power) or pink (unlock motor power) for your lock/unlock detection.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:30 PM   #70
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I the blue wire drops 1/10 of a volt when I lock/unlock. The large pink and orange wires cause my remote starter to blink the park lights incessantly, are they a + or - pulse?
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:37 PM   #71
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Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:07 PM   #72
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Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?
That's basically the same as the orange wire on the kick panel (except 4H-8 is the passenger door lock motor).
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