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Old 11-12-2010, 02:09 PM   #73
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By the way, take a read through page 2. Skylinecar1982 ran into some issues with the 1155 because of how the OEM remote entry works.
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:52 PM   #74
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I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:58 PM   #75
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I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.
You might want to try disconnecting the white wire to the keyless entry receiver as I mentioned on the third page. He tried the red, but never responded about trying the white.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:58 AM   #76
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Is it easy to install a Avital 4111L remote start to a 2007 with no alarm system, no power windows or doors? What would be a fair price for install? I'm a lady with no knowledge on this subject. TIA
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:18 AM   #77
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Is it easy to install a Avital 4111L remote start to a 2007 with no alarm system, no power windows or doors? What would be a fair price for install? I'm a lady with no knowledge on this subject. TIA
I am not sure what an installer would charge, but for this installation on a Yaris, it should be at the bottom end of their installation fees, as it is a very easy install. Since your car is an 07, no transponder key bypass is necessary, so only the remote starter is required.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:14 PM   #78
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The disconnecting the white wire to the receiver does absolutely nothing. The keyless entry works in the exact same manner as if it was connected.

Looking through the various diagrams and manuals it looks to me like the CAN bus thing is involved.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:33 PM   #79
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The disconnecting the white wire to the receiver does absolutely nothing. The keyless entry works in the exact same manner as if it was connected.

Looking through the various diagrams and manuals it looks to me like the CAN bus thing is involved.
It's definitely not CAN between the Main Body ECU and the Door Control Receiver. I believe it's LIN bus, which is much easier to intercept. I need to get my hands on a door control receiver to sniff that data stream.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:19 PM   #80
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hey ctscott.. thanks for the pdf file on the diy.. i have a question.. is there a door trigger on a 2008 yaris h/b with no power windows/locks? lmk thanks
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:10 PM   #81
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hey ctscott.. thanks for the pdf file on the diy.. i have a question.. is there a door trigger on a 2008 yaris h/b with no power windows/locks? lmk thanks
Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.

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Old 11-21-2010, 11:20 PM   #82
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is there suppose to be any wire on the pin? cause there is none on the wire you mentioned? or just stick the wire from the alarm in the open harness that you mentioned?
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:38 AM   #83
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is there suppose to be any wire on the pin? cause there is none on the wire you mentioned? or just stick the wire from the alarm in the open harness that you mentioned?
There is no wire on any of the 5 pins listed above?
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:03 AM   #84
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yup no wires
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:19 AM   #85
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Here's a picture from Crashy, who is an 08 Liftback without power:

Door Inputs - Conn 4A - 08 LB no power copy.jpg
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:36 PM   #86
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Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:05 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by yarismadness View Post
Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!
Nice additions.

The 3A diodes should be more than sufficient, as the ignition switch only switches power to a relay coil (~75mA) for starting.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:35 PM   #88
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2008 yaris remote start issue

i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL
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Old 12-11-2010, 07:39 PM   #89
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i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL



Which idatalink did you buy? Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram that came with it?

Also, the bypass modules typically have a learning mode, where they read your key, so they can emulate it. Did you go through that procedure?
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:05 PM   #90
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ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.
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