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Old 01-13-2014, 11:09 AM   #1
Rutherford
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Union Mills, NC
Posts: 20
Need help with Evap Canister Replacement

I have the dreaded check engine light with the codes telling the dealer I have water in the evap canister. With the dealer wanting about $1200.00 to fix and seeing as how the unit appears to be easy to get to under the rear I thought I would try to replace myself. It is getting to be a pain putting gas in the yaris as I can only pump it very slow. Got underneath the Yaris this past weekend to see how difficult it is going to be to replace. Need some help figuring out how to remove the various connections. Tried squeezing the flat sides of some of the connectors while pushing them in with no luck. Maybe someone out there can put pointers on the photos below as to where to press to remove the connectors for my stupid self. Ain’t like the old days.
There is also a filter?? (see last photo) box on the line that runs from the canister to the fuel filler neck. Should I do anything with this (check. clean, etc.). The vapor canisters are really expensive and I was wondering if anyone has tried the used ones they sell on ebay, etc. which are around $250.00.
With just about 250,000 miles on my 08 it has been a good car except for this issue and my airbag light is on. The only major thing I have had to do is a water pump so far. I have to get it inspected next month so I have to fix this issue to get it through. Really appreciate any help on this you can give me. I am technologically challenged so I hope this post works with the photos
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:30 AM   #2
CTScott
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I sold a set not too long ago off a wrecked Yaris that I parted out. Buying used ones is fine if they are guaranteed. The 2007 Yaris had an issue with the fuel filler vent, which could allow water to enter the canister, so ideally you want a set off an 08 or newer to be safe.

The first connector is a real bear. I tried squeezing it as the service manual shows, but even with a pair of pliers could not get it released. What I finally did was to use two tiny flat blade screwdrivers to release the two tabs that should be released while squeezing. If I can find the pictures that I took when I did it I will post them.

The second connector (with the green piece) is the easiest one. With that one you squeeze the two bottom tabs of the green piece (it is horse shoe shaped) and then lift the green piece up. Once you do that the connector easily pulls off.

The third is a squeeze one as well. That one comes off pretty easily, but you may want to use a flat blade screwdriver to pry it away from the canister while squeezing with your fingers.

The little box is a filter for the canister. Just shake it to make sure that it is not full of water or fuel.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:27 PM   #3
Rutherford
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
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Thanks. I had found your previous post on this and had it in hand when I was under the car. I think with your latest one now I know which one to use the screwdrivers on and have a better idea on the others. I am going to have to do this on my gravel driveway, in winter, in the mountains of western North Carolina. I wanted to make sure I could do it in a timely manner so my butt does not get frozen stuck to the ground
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:43 PM   #4
Rutherford
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
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One more note here. I have an 08 yaris which I bought in February of 08. The dealer added the filler neck modification to the price to replace the canister saying this would keep it from happening again so some of the 08's do not have the update. I thought it was kinda arrogant of Toyota to charge me for the part to fix THEIR design flaw.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rutherford View Post
One more note here. I have an 08 yaris which I bought in February of 08. The dealer added the filler neck modification to the price to replace the canister saying this would keep it from happening again so some of the 08's do not have the update. I thought it was kinda arrogant of Toyota to charge me for the part to fix THEIR design flaw.
There is a TSB for the filler neck issue (which I believe is posted in the TSB thread and it very well may include some early 2008 Yaris as well). The problem with a TSB is that it is not a recall, so they are not obligated to perform the fix. It is basically a heads-up to the mechanic that this is a known thing that has occurred and if you run into it, here is a solution.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:47 PM   #6
Mongoose7
 
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CTScott,
Where can I find a copy of the 2007 Yaris Filler Neck TSB ??
Mike
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:43 PM   #7
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CTScott,
Where can I find a copy of the 2007 Yaris Filler Neck TSB ??
Mike
Here is the US one, which only covers 2007:
T-EG048-07 (M.I.L. ON DTC P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, & P2419).pdf

Interesting though that the Canadian one covers 2007-2011:
T-TCI-3564 (MIL ON P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, AND P2419 DUE TO WATER INTRUSION INTO CHARCOAL CA.pdf
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:32 PM   #8
Mongoose7
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris HB
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Thank you CTScott......
By the way, I see you're only 10 posts away from 10K on Yaris World, here's to an early congrats !!!!!
Mike
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:59 AM   #9
Rutherford
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
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Location: Union Mills, NC
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Bought me a used evap canister and installed it. Thanks so much for the help with the connections. Was not difficult once I know how to get them apart. After about 180 miles my check engine light came on and I went by Advanced Auto to see what code had come up. It read a small evap leak. I may not have had the gas cap on all the way locked so I cleared the code and have driven it now about 250 miles without the check engine light coming on. I still have a problem though. I cannot pump gas very fast when I fill it up. It seems like it is not able to relieve the air as quick as I am putting the gas in. When I took the old evap canister off I checked the filter box? in the line from the evap canister to the filler neck. I did not remove it but I disconnected both lines leading into it and attached some tubing so I could blow through from each direction to make sure there was no water in it. I shook it and did not hear anything. Did not see any moisture but it seemed like there was some restriction in it. I figure it may only pass air/fumes in one direction but it was difficult to get air through either way. Could this cause the problem with not being able to pump gas at a normal rate or may I still have an issue with the evap canister? It did pass the emission test here in NC when the light was off
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