Cv joint replacement 07 2dr

[Garth g.]

Never done cv joints before. Bought my car in January they were torn and clicking, mechanic changed them cheap after market ones. $110 a side. The passenger side accumulates grease on the boot everytime I change the oil. I always wipe it off it comes back. I noticed I have to change the stabilizer links, the one on the passenger's side is torn. I ordered mevotech ones. I'm starting to work on this car myself if anyone has any experience with this I would appreciate your feedback.

[CrankyOldMan]

You'll need a few specialty items for the axles:
* De-staking tool for the spindle nut
* 30mm 12-point socket
* Retention clips (OEM part 90521-26004, 2 ea.)

Common tools/items
* Pry bar to get the axles out
* Breaker bar or impact gun
* Gear lube or ATF, as appropriate

General advice
* The hex sockets on the end links will likely strip before you break the nut loose. Soak them in penetrating oil a day or two in advance. Be prepared to cut them off.
* You will need an alignment afterwards
* Removing the wipers and cowl is optional, but makes accessing the top of the strut easier. You will need a 17mm a through-hole socket wrench or offset box wrench.
* Jack stands at a minimum, car lift is ideal.

There's probably something else I'm missing. I've done it several times so I'm kind of on autopilot.

[Garth g.]

Thanks for the guidance. I didn't change the cv half shaft assembly's yet, did the sway bar links though. I soaked the nuts and bolts a couple of days with w-d40 and liquid wrench 🔧. I also cracked them first with a breaker bar, then used a gear wrench and a 6mm Allan key. I almost stripped the last nut, good thing I didn't I wasn't prepared. I torqued them to 59ftlbs,not sure if that's accurate (found a chart on my phone) I think the grease that's on the cv boot is coming from somewhere else like I said it's there sometimes and there is no clicking or damage. Had to start this job at 11pm work crappie hours. I feel enthused.