Cut off front sway end bar links with torch

[Pinchlite]

Allen key hole stripped round.

Bolt/nut? just spins.

[tmontague]

Use a crap ton of pb blaster. Grab a large pair of round vice grips. Grab the rubber ball part of the end link. Then take an impact socket onto the nut and blast it off.

Make sure the vice grips are on very tight. You'll tear the boot and need new end links but you'll at least get them on

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Use a crap ton of pb blaster. Grab a large pair of round vice grips. Grab the rubber ball part of the end link. Then take an impact socket onto the nut and blast it off.

Make sure the vice grips are on very tight. You'll tear the boot and need new end links but you'll at least get them on

Thats waht some other forums mentioned.

So I can still do the spring swap today and put new endlinks on later ,probaly next week when new ones arrive?

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Use a crap ton of pb blaster. Grab a large pair of round vice grips. Grab the rubber ball part of the end link. Then take an impact socket onto the nut and blast it off.

Make sure the vice grips are on very tight. You'll tear the boot and need new end links but you'll at least get them on

Destroyed the link but will put new ones on soon.

Now I cant remove top cap nut on strut.

Everyone who says this is an easy job is full of .......and doubt very highly on how long they say it takes to do the job.

Looks like the old strut is going back in for know.

When I have more time i will give it another go.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Leave the weight of the car on the struts to loosen the top nut

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Leave the weight of the car on the struts to loosen the top nut

I got it off and reassembled....dont even ask how.

Know the issue is that even after cutting 1.5 inches off of bumpstop I think the shock top plate thingy is resting on the bumpstop after putting on tire and lowering to ground.

I may cut 2 inches off the next,then I will have to remove the first and cut another 1/2 inch off aswell.

The car doesnt seem to have lowered near as much as the back..looks stock to be honest.


could this be because the other side was still at stock height with stock spring?

Really,really frusturated.


UPDATE:

Tried to loosen the top nut and know the strut shaft allen key hole is stripped.

Looks like I will need to get it towed to a shop know because cant drive it with different shocks on each wheel.

Unless anyone has any suggestions.Not enough meat above the nut to get vicegrips either.


What a bloody nightmare.

[CrankyOldMan]

I had to use a sawzall to get them off the swaybar, then took them to my workbench and used a grinder to remove the upper nuts.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

I had to use a sawzall to get them off the swaybar, then took them to my workbench and used a grinder to remove the upper nuts.

I already got that off by destroying boot using vicegrips.Will need new swaybar links obviously.


MY ISSUE KNOW is the top strut piston shaft allen key hole is stripped.

Looks like I will be taking the day off of work tomorrow.

[CrankyOldMan]

Oh, right. That top allen key. Ouch! I've never had an issue with that one. Was it corroded? The dust cap has done a good job of keeping mine clean.

I suppose you could try grinding a pair of flats on the shaft and putting an adjustable wrench on them. I assume your goal is to preserve the struts?

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Oh, right. That top allen key. Ouch! I've never had an issue with that one. Was it corroded? The dust cap has done a good job of keeping mine clean.

I suppose you could try grinding a pair of flats on the shaft and putting an adjustable wrench on them. I assume your goal is to preserve the struts?

No they were not corrroded at all,looked barad new.I used the proper key size(Park tool)

Finally got it off by putting vice grips onto shaft then impacted it off.

I ended up removing entire metal cowling support plate.

The drivers side was stubborn but not this stubborn.

I still think the car is resting on the bumpstop on the finished drivers side,even though I cut 1.5 inches off.

The back turned out beautiful but the front is dissapointing.The drivers side is pretty much stock height.

I dont care about the struts as i am putting new ones on.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by Pinchlite

No they were not corrroded at all,looked barad new.I used the proper key size(Park tool)

Finally got it off by putting vice grips onto shaft then impacted it off.

I ended up removing entire metal cowling support plate.

The drivers side was stubborn but not this stubborn.

I still think the car is resting on the bumpstop on the finished drivers side,even though I cut 1.5 inches off.

The back turned out beautiful but the front is dissapointing.The drivers side is pretty much stock height.

I dont care about the struts as i am putting new ones on.

Got it done and thanks to everyone for putting up with my questions and attitude perhaps.

Not realy a car repair person so got frusturated and what not.

since both sides are done and the car is back on the ground it looks like an even drop with the back.

Putting cowling back together then a test spin....hopefully nothing rattles or falls off.

Gotta replace the swaybar endlinks though as i ripped the boots with vice grips as i had no choice to remove.

They probaly could of ben replaced anyway.I can get them for $30.00 CAD compared to getting mechanic to do entire job and probaly cost $200.00+.

Again thanks to everyone and this phenominal community.

[tmontague]

Glad to hear you ended up getting it sorted out. Things like that suck and I've definitely been there more times than I care to remember. Just try and keep in mind that when sh*t hits the fan and take hours (or days) longer to do than it should you end up learning various tips and tricks and things to do next time to avoid some of those issues. It's kinda of a learning curve as well as a right of passage of that makes any sense.

In hindsight I should have mentioned the issues with the end links and removing the cowling.

Here's some tips for a southern Ontario car (albeit a bit late):

Not sure of the mileage on your car but if you plan on doing any future work have it oiled sprayed every spring when the salt is off the roads. Before you do spray underneath your car With water and then let it dry.

Avoid using an Allen key bolts if possible, in the case of the struts always remove the wiper cowling and use an impact directly onto the top strut bolt, you'll never have issues with the strut spinning this way.

Always cover every thread of any bolt that you're re installing with anti seize, you or your mechanic will thank you later. Buy a small tub of marine grease and fill the Allen key hole of the new end links when you reinstall them. Every time you remove your front wheels (hopefully at least twice a year) spray all accessible bolts and threads with an oil spray in a can. Especially the end links and bolts on the suspension components.

Also before you put the dust cap back on your strut, pack the top but with marine grease.

Next time you replace your springs or struts it will take about 60mins not including set up and and cleaning.

My bad on not mentioning the end link issue for us salt belt people. I mentioned it in a thread somewhere else but it slipped my mind. If it's any consolation, the first time I swapped my springs it took the better part of a Saturday and a new $70 end link (lifetime warranty) that was unexpected.

I can say that after all the shitty days spent under a car with things going wrong in the past, they have helped me trouble shoot other issues I run into now. Its also helped me appreciate the value of anti seize and oil coatings.

Step away from working on the car for a bit and let the next thing you do be something fun and simple. Enjoy the new springs!

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Glad to hear you ended up getting it sorted out. Things like that suck and I've definitely been there more times than I care to remember. Just try and keep in mind that when sh*t hits the fan and take hours (or days) longer to do than it should you end up learning various tips and tricks and things to do next time to avoid some of those issues. It's kinda of a learning curve as well as a right of passage of that makes any sense.

In hindsight I should have mentioned the issues with the end links and removing the cowling.

Here's some tips for a southern Ontario car (albeit a bit late):

Not sure of the mileage on your car but if you plan on doing any future work have it oiled sprayed every spring when the salt is off the roads. Before you do spray underneath your car With water and then let it dry.

Avoid using an Allen key bolts if possible, in the case of the struts always remove the wiper cowling and use an impact directly onto the top strut bolt, you'll never have issues with the strut spinning this way.

Always cover every thread of any bolt that you're re installing with anti seize, you or your mechanic will thank you later. Buy a small tub of marine grease and fill the Allen key hole of the new end links when you reinstall them. Every time you remove your front wheels (hopefully at least twice a year) spray all accessible bolts and threads with an oil spray in a can. Especially the end links and bolts on the suspension components.

Also before you put the dust cap back on your strut, pack the top but with marine grease.

Next time you replace your springs or struts it will take about 60mins not including set up and and cleaning.

My bad on not mentioning the end link issue for us salt belt people. I mentioned it in a thread somewhere else but it slipped my mind. If it's any consolation, the first time I swapped my springs it took the better part of a Saturday and a new $70 end link (lifetime warranty) that was unexpected.

I can say that after all the shitty days spent under a car with things going wrong in the past, they have helped me trouble shoot other issues I run into now. Its also helped me appreciate the value of anti seize and oil coatings.

Step away from working on the car for a bit and let the next thing you do be something fun and simple. Enjoy the new springs!

Excellent tips and will take note.

I ended up not damaging the pasenger side stabilizer boot as i heated up the nut and it impacted off.

The rubber is supple with zero cracks top/bottom.Can i get away with just replacing the damaged one?

I took for looong spid and it definitly feels firmer,tighter but still comfortable.

I cant really press down on the front of the car...am i riding on the bumpstops?Going to take a peek tomorrow if I can lift the boot.

What would symptoms of riding the bumpstops be?

Thanks again bud you and others here got me through the job.

Cant wait to get the summer setup on.

Took a pic aswell....

[WeeYari]

On top of all the above, it is always a good idea to start spraying all nuts/bolts that are involved in a project with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster 2 or 3 days before hand. Give them a blast a day until you start the work.

Also, as a newbie to this, I'm surprised/impressed you didn't post up a 'WTF did I do wrong?' thread when you saw the strut top hat not sitting flush.



Can't tell you how many times we've calmed people freaked out by this over the years.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

On top of all the above, it is always a good idea to start spraying all nuts/bolts that are involved in a project with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster 2 or 3 days before hand. Give them a blast a day until you start the work.

Also, as a newbie to this, I'm surprised/impressed you didn't post up a 'WTF did I do wrong?' thread when you saw the strut top hat not sitting flush.



Can't tell you how many times we've calmed people freaked out by this over the years.

Thanks for the tips and will do so in the future.

I did read this on this forum somewhere and noted it was okay

('WTF did I do wrong?' thread when you saw the strut top hat not sitting flush)

Only the passenger side sits about half as high as in your pic.

Getting oil change and redline gearbox oil done tomorrow.My yaris is a happy yaris.

[WeeYari]

If you are riding the bump stops, going over a pebble will feel like a pot hole.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

If you are riding the bump stops, going over a pebble will feel like a pot hole.

Def not riding the bumps then.

Its just that I cannot push down the front end of the car like I could before.

I took some speed bumps and it was firm with a slight smooth springiness.

Feels like a new car.

Almost forgot...Thanks for all the help and encouragement

[tmontague]

As WeeYari stated, always having a can of PB Blaster or equivalent and spraying the bolts early will help. Or make your own out of transmission oil and acetone and put it in an oil drip can.

You won't be on the bump stops as their is more travel from the factory then you removed installing your lowering springs. I only trimmed my bump stops about a half inch and I'm not even riding on them. if you were every little bump would feel harsh and very slightly dampened.

Riding on the bumps is not really an issue (unless you cut them) Mini cooper S's come riding on the bumps from factory. Makes for a terrible DD but a damn fun go cart on the on ramps ;). In their newer models they decided away from this and softened up the suspension.