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Old 03-06-2017, 07:06 AM   #1
Pinchlite
 
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Rear loweing springs when up on hoist?

I remember when I installed the rear springs that were kinda loose when backend was on jacks.

Didnt give it much thought as the springs are tight inplace when on the ground.

I will be getting engine/gearbox oil change done today(free oil change but I supply the gear oil only gift certificate)

Will the springs shift around when up on the hoist and is this something for the mechanic(Toyota) to be aware of?

Hope this is not another one of my nonsensical questions again.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:24 AM   #2
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Well the back should stay in place I just put the Trd one on Saturday drop 1.2 " they war fine no movement and I lift the car couple of times on less is really drop drop

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Old 03-06-2017, 07:25 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Yaris874 View Post
Well the back should stay in place I just put the Trd one on Saturday drop 1.2 " they war fine no movement and I lift the car couple of times on less is really drop drop

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1.5 drop here.

Mind sharing pic of drop+wheel tire combo info
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:27 AM   #4
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Why they war loose ? The u put back the rubber pieces back?

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Old 03-06-2017, 07:29 AM   #5
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Why they war loose ? The u put back the rubber pieces back?

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Yes for sure,whatever the stock spring had on them.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:48 AM   #6
dogsridewith
 
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lowering springs

no problem...they'll only fall out if you catch air.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:07 AM   #7
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I've been here almost 10 years and nobody has ever posted an issue relevant to your concern. The only time anything remotely close came up was one member who ran ridiculously short Sprint springs that easily came loose of the perches when load was taken off the rear wheels. He used heavy duty cable ties to secure springs to lower perch. If you do need piece of mind, there in lies your solution.
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Old 03-06-2017, 09:23 AM   #8
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When I fully extend the rear suspension on the rear of my car using a jack the spring are somewhat "loose" but even then I can't just easily pull them out. Never had any issues on the road
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:53 PM   #9
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Your rear dampers are not short enough for your chosen spring.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:55 PM   #10
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Your rear dampers are not short enough for your chosen spring.
The car was on hoist yesterday without issue so I think all is good.

What does this mean?(rear dampers are not short enough)
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Pinchlite View Post
The car was on hoist yesterday without issue so I think all is good.

What does this mean?(rear dampers are not short enough)
The rear dampers are what limit the travel of the rear torsion beam at full extension, which happens when the vehicle is hoisted.

A lowering spring (which is shorter) can sometimes free-float when the wheels leave the ground if the damper's full extension can't contain it.

This more often happens when lowering springs are installed without upgrading the damper to something shorter.

They are sometimes called shock absorber in USA. I've long given up regionalised slang in favour of the international engineering standard... in this case, it's real name is a damper. Sorry for the confusion!
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Lux View Post
The rear dampers are what limit the travel of the rear torsion beam at full extension, which happens when the vehicle is hoisted.

A lowering spring (which is shorter) can sometimes free-float when the wheels leave the ground if the damper's full extension can't contain it.

This more often happens when lowering springs are installed without upgrading the damper to something shorter.

They are sometimes called shock absorber in USA. I've long given up regionalised slang in favour of the international engineering standard... in this case, it's real name is a damper. Sorry for the confusion!
I had a feeling you were referring to the shock absorber.

The only time my wheels will be leaving the ground is when its jack/hoisted so it shouldint be a problem then.

I dont drive agressivly or do over the speed limit either.I drive my car like grandma.Never understood the need to speed or drive aggressivly.

I will rephrase:I understand why people speed and drive aggressivly but its not for me.
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Old 03-08-2017, 08:32 AM   #13
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Yaris rear strut struts damper spring rebound stop

Lux. regarding correct terminology. Wouldn't the piece in OP's car needing shorter full-extension be considered a strut that combines functions of motion axis restriction (helps keep wheel pointed straight and only able to move approximately up and down), damping, and rebound stop/cushioning...where if one could get into the thing, all that would be required is getting some spacering under the rebound stop?
Once upon a time some racer guys might have installed a rebound strap (length or loop of woven thread) at each side to limit/adjust rebound travel?
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Old 03-08-2017, 12:29 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
Lux. regarding correct terminology. Wouldn't the piece in OP's car needing shorter full-extension be considered a strut that combines functions of motion axis restriction (helps keep wheel pointed straight and only able to move approximately up and down), damping, and rebound stop/cushioning...where if one could get into the thing, all that would be required is getting some spacering under the rebound stop?
Once upon a time some racer guys might have installed a rebound strap (length or loop of woven thread) at each side to limit/adjust rebound travel?
You are right, although struts is a term normally applied to dampers used in a MacPherson geometry where it takes the duty of a control arm (lateral and thrust location of the steering knuckle), ball joint (top hat bearing for turning), and damper as one complete unit.

In the case of Yaris rear torsion beam suspension, the damper will only control the speed and travel of jounce and rebound. Lateral and thrust location are the duty of the torsion beam bushings. Toe and camber are fixed because the torsion beam and its mounts are not adjustable, but they will change in fixed amounts as the beam travels up or down.

You're right in that there are ways to jerry-rig a rebound stop, including rebuilding the damper with more shims (to limit its extended length) and tighter valves (to slow and stiffen its rate). Unfortunately, there are no notable or unique characteristics of the stock damper to make it worthwhile, so, generally, total replacement is more suitable and far less expensive.
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