Front coil spring orientation?

[Pinchlite]

I have done quite a bit of research but need final confirmation from the yaris pros here.

One end of the spring will sit level on the table...the other is uneven.

I have read that the writing on the spring may not be a good indication of which side is the top.

Here is pic of spring and strut.

Not sure if you can see the red dots on the bumpstop but thats where they will be cut(1.5'')leaving the wider leftover part on the strut.

Spring: http://i.imgur.com/1hDviQ1.jpg

Strut: http://i.imgur.com/z1Hz8Ba.jpg

Thanks in advance as you guy's allways come through with accurate info.

[Pinchlite]

Evidently nobody knows what side is up on a spring.

I will try the manufacturer.

[KTS]

I think the level side is top to rest on the shock mount and the uneven side rest on the shock base. Just my 2 cents.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by KTS

I think the level side is top to rest on the shock mount and the uneven side rest on the shock base. Just my 2 cents.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks.

I contacted manufacturer and they said the coils tighter together is top.
So the uneven end goes to the bottom of strut.

For some reason it just made sense for the flat level end to be the base of the strut cup....evidentily not though.

[KTS]

Great

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

Good to know, I always wondered about the tighter coils and their orientation

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by KTS

Great

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Now if the weather were to smarten up I could get the front done.

The rear feels much better then the stock spring/shock.
I was worried because many mentioned rough ride.

Mine feels firm yet has nice tigh cushion over rough/uneven roads.

Not going to bother with rear sway bar either.The lowering of the front should tighten things up aswell.

Cant see myself spending $300-350+ CAD for a bent metal bar.

I am sure it helps but I drive like grandma.

Only reason i lowered in the first place was to eliminate gap for my summers

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Good to know, I always wondered about the tighter coils and their orientation

Yeah..searching google came up with conflicting views/answears/opinions.

[IllusionX]

What brand are these?

I have the micro image springs and the letters are right side up.

Also, with the micro image springs, the fronts are so much stiffer, you can't go without a rear sway bar in the winter

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by IllusionX

What brand are these?

I have the micro image springs and the letters are right side up.

Also, with the micro image springs, the fronts are so much stiffer, you can't go without a rear sway bar in the winter

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Manzo....I know what you think.

All the negative opinions are from people that have not used manzo springs.Actual users have said work well and very happy.(Lots of research BTW)

Yes lettering will be right side up if installed like manufacturer recommended(More compressed top)

Like i said it will cost about $400 CAD(All said and done ship etc) to get a whiteline or trd sway bar here..or shipped to canada.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by IllusionX

What brand are these?

I have the micro image springs and the letters are right side up.

Also, with the micro image springs, the fronts are so much stiffer, you can't go without a rear sway bar in the winter

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

you can't go without a rear sway bar in the winter

Can you elaborate on why?

I see you have a sedan,probaly does not handle as good as a 2 DR HB in general/stock.

My car was fine this winter.

[tmontague]

The stuff fronts relative to the rears lead to crazy over steer. A rear seat bar stiffens up the rear helping to alleviate this issue. So does ptting performance shocks in the rear and keeping one on the fronts.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

The stuff fronts relative to the rears lead to crazy over steer. A rear seat bar stiffens up the rear helping to alleviate this issue. So does ptting performance shocks in the rear and keeping one on the fronts.

I appreciate the knowledge but anymore upgrades are not in my budget this summer.

Off topic here but....given I have proper tools,impact wrench all the proper sockets and have already loosened the top nut on strut(I retightened) without removing cowling how long should it take to do just the front struts(rears are completeed already)

I plan to do tomorrow.

P.S

I also have breaker bar,torque wrench,box wrenches etc.All the proper sizes needed.

[KTS]

Took me 30mins to change a side last time I did it. It's a simple process especially if you know your way around a car and have the correct tools.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by KTS

Took me 30mins to change a side last time I did it. It's a simple process especially if you know your way around a car and have the correct tools.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Going to go for it!...weather is cold,+1 tomorrow and no garage or shelter.

I spent 3 hours fixing a snow blower in -20 last winter so should be able to do a strut.

Once I have the strut off then the spring swap will be done indoors.

[tmontague]

Yes an hour (with a spring comoressor) for both sides is pretty accurate if you're familiar with what you have to remove. Some extra set up and clean up time tagged into that and you're good to go

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Yes an hour (with a spring comoressor) for both sides is pretty accurate if you're familiar with what you have to remove. Some extra set up and clean up time tagged into that and you're good to go

Spring compressors for sure,actually bought a set instaed of borrowing.

Gonna be a bit chilly but everything can be done with those rubber dipped gloves that are perfect for this type of work.Hopefully I can post my finished drop tomorrow.

Thanks again to you and everyone for the assistance.