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Old 07-18-2011, 03:34 AM   #1
NickNickNick
 
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Lost Serpentine Belt

Hi.

Today I was on the highway, travelling about 100km/hr when I noticed my temperature guage came on. That had never happened before, so I pulled over to check things out. The coolant was definitely hot, so I let the car sit for about 15 minutes or so (I also had the a/c blasting, as it was about +35c outside). I started the car up, kept the engine at 80km/hr and about 7km down the road, could begin to smell coolant. I pulled over again, popped the hood, and the coolant was boiling over. I noticed at this time the battery light also came on, as did the check engine light. I also noticed that the temperature guage had gone from too hot to reading "cool." I shut the car off, let it sit again for 15 mins, added some coolant, and tried to start the car. Wouldn't start. Electrical is all fine, but when trying to start it made a high-pitched noise. I popped the hood again, and noticed that my serpentine belt was gone. I must've drove about 10kms without it before noticing. Any idea what that'll cost to fix? Assuming all that is needed is a serpentine belt. I checked the oil and coolant immediately after noticing the missing belt, and there was no coolant in the oil, and no smoke coming out of the exhaust, so I assume everything else is alright. There were also no fluid leaks anywhere, other than the boiled over coolant (the rest of the coolant stayed in the casing), as I had plenty of time to check waiting 2 hours for a tow truck in the middle of nowhere, Saskatchewan. I have about 127,000km on my 2006 Yaris.

Last edited by NickNickNick; 07-18-2011 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:27 AM   #2
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Popping the belt isn't a big deal and is an inexpensive repair (under $20 DIY, and probably $50-$100 with a shop doing it), but the high-pitched noise when trying to start it could be bad. When the belt is off, besides not running the water pump and hence overheating, the battery doesn't get charged. The noise could be due to the battery not having enough power to turn the engine over, although that usually results in a clicking noise.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:47 AM   #3
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It would seem to me that a blown head gasket is quite possible. But whatever has happened (if anything) will become apparent later.
It makes sense to have the belt replaced. Then the car can be evaluated. I would not be going to a mechanic wringing my hands over what happened and asking for advice. The predictions from the mechanic are sure to be dire.
Have the belt done, remove the negative terminal from the battery to clear the codes and see how the car runs.

Good luck and tell us what happens!
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:40 AM   #4
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The good news is: the repairs are relatively easy....even fixing a blown head gasket - you can practically lift the whole motor out without a hoist it's so small....

The bad news: you probably do have a bad head gasket and will need to pull the head off and fix it. Be sure to check the head surface to make sure it's not warped. While you're in there.....change the water pump.

I have enough tools in with the spare tire to change the serp belt - which I have a new (spare) one with me in the glove box.

Hummm....I have 80k miles on my orrig belt.....which is 128k km.....better change it I think!
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:38 PM   #5
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The old school rule for changing belts is every 4 years . For example if you have a 2007 , figure it was made in 2006 , so you would change in 2010 ....

Hope this helps .
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:32 PM   #6
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I changed my belt in about 30 minutes. Paid 20 dollars for the belt and it has 3 year warranty from Dayco, Part Number: 5040465. Amazon.com has it for 11 dollars if you have time to ship.
I had 116,000 miles and changed it myself. The next week I drove 1500 miles no problems.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:58 PM   #7
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So here's an unpleasant update.

Engine is blown.

Overheating caused some warping, head gasket problems, etc. The mechanic I spoke to (toyota dealership) figures the electrical system failed at some point, because the check engine light should have come on when the belt came off, not after the engine overheated. The extra 5-10km I drove without realizing the belt was off may have done it.

I am somewhat surprised that there wouldn't be any warning signs of this occurring, seeing as I just had my oil changed 5 days ago, and had the full 120,000km service inspection about 2 months or less ago. I really thought I wouldn't have any types of problems like this until I hit 240,000km. I recently had the serpentine belt replaced at the dealership as well, in the early winter, about 8 months ago.

Any idea what a new engine, plus labour, a belt, and a rad cap will cost?
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:14 PM   #8
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Dang! I had a feeling with the high pitched sound that you had seized her. The mechanic is actually wrong about the check engine light. The charging light should have come on (since the alternator wasn't spinning), and the temp hot light (which you saw), but the check engine wouldn't come on until something bad happened to the engine itself.

The belt should not have failed in 8 months unless the alternator or water pump seized, or the mechanic seriously overtightened it.

Used Yaris engines are plentiful, since there are way more accidents than engine failures. They can be purchased for $500 or less from junkyards or ebay.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:28 AM   #9
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Try car-part.com search for a motor....they're out there!

Not sure which part of Canada you're from (I saw the part about Saskatchewan...but you might have been travelin through)....

Anyway....if you were close to Seattle, I would give ya a hand with the swap.

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Old 07-19-2011, 05:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickNickNick View Post
I recently had the serpentine belt replaced at the dealership as well, in the early winter, about 8 months ago.

Any idea what a new engine, plus labour, a belt, and a rad cap will cost?
IS this repair under warranty? If so I woul be trying for all I was worth to pin this on them.

Its their fault.

Might be a waste of time.

You want a junk yard engine but i have no idea what they go for.

Might be cheap as there prolly isnt much of a market for them given their durability.

Good luck and tell us what happens!

Yeah the mechanic is full of it. Is this the same people who changed the belt? One can get a good idea of the value of "Toyota service" from your eperience which should have found the belt problem...
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:52 AM   #11
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Yes, look on Ebay I see several yaris engines from 350 for a used on up to 1,000 for a new one
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:01 PM   #12
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I do not think this is covered by warranty, though my car, along with my service records are in a different city right now...I will have to check the exact date of the belt replacement. My 120,000km full service was done no more than 2 months ago, where I was told everything was in "excellent" shape.

I bought an engine off a gov't salvage lot here. $750 CDN (~$800 USD). It has only 6800km on it, comes with 3 mths warranty.

Now going to get a labour quote from Toyota. I have written them a letter as well, to see what Headquarters has to say...I will be sending that in with my service records today.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:20 PM   #13
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If the belt "broke" like 2000 miles since it was installed to me they are responsible

I could be delusional.
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:39 PM   #14
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That is one thing I do not like about the Yaris, not having a temp guage. I know the scanguage would show but hate to spend that much. Is there a way to install a sending unit for an aftermarket guage?
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
That is one thing I do not like about the Yaris, not having a temp guage. I know the scanguage would show but hate to spend that much. Is there a way to install a sending unit for an aftermarket guage?
You can either mount the sender in place of the OEM one or use one of the adapters where you cut the radiator hose and install it in line (like the pic below). By the time you spend $50 for a decent gauge (or the same as a SGII for a good one) and go through the hassle of installing it, you'd be better off with the SG.

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Old 07-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
You can either mount the sender in place of the OEM one or use one of the adapters where you cut the radiator hose and install it in line (like the pic below). By the time you spend $50 for a decent gauge (or the same as a SGII for a good one) and go through the hassle of installing it, you'd be better off with the SG.

You can't remove the OEM temp sensor. You would need to add a t-fitting and add an aftermarket sensor while still retaining the OEM sensor. I tried just replacing the OEM sensor with an aftermarket one when I did my other gauges install and I got a CEL P0118 and the car wouldn't start or when it did the idle was very low and the engine would stall. I put the OEM sensor back in and everything worked perfectly.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:02 PM   #17
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You can't remove the OEM temp sensor. You would need to add a t-fitting and add an aftermarket sensor while still retaining the OEM sensor. I tried just replacing the OEM sensor with an aftermarket one when I did my other gauges install and I got a CEL P0118 and the car wouldn't start or when it did the idle was very low and the engine would stall. I put the OEM sensor back in and everything worked perfectly.
Correct. You can't completely eliminate the OEM one, unless you replace it with a resistor to fool the ECM into thinking it's there.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:03 PM   #18
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That's what I figured. Do you know what resistor to use?
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