Cut off front sway end bar links with torch

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by tmontague

As WeeYari stated, always having a can of PB Blaster or equivalent and spraying the bolts early will help. Or make your own out of transmission oil and acetone and put it in an oil drip can.

You won't be on the bump stops as their is more travel from the factory then you removed installing your lowering springs. I only trimmed my bump stops about a half inch and I'm not even riding on them. if you were every little bump would feel harsh and very slightly dampened.

Riding on the bumps is not really an issue (unless you cut them) Mini cooper S's come riding on the bumps from factory. Makes for a terrible DD but a damn fun go cart on the on ramps ;). In their newer models they decided away from this and softened up the suspension.

I cut 1.5 off as recommended by manufacturer when using stock style struts.

[tmontague]

I forgot to mention you only need to replace the end link with the torn boot. The other one that is fine can be reinstalled

[David C]

Originally Posted by Pinchlite

No they were not corrroded at all,looked barad new.I used the proper key size(Park tool)



Finally got it off by putting vice grips onto shaft then impacted it off.



I ended up removing entire metal cowling support plate.



The drivers side was stubborn but not this stubborn.



I still think the car is resting on the bumpstop on the finished drivers side,even though I cut 1.5 inches off.



The back turned out beautiful but the front is dissapointing.The drivers side is pretty much stock height.



I dont care about the struts as i am putting new ones on.

Do yourself a favor and ditch the Park Tools kinder garden set and buy some Wera tools. I was a bicycle mechanic for many years as well as custom fabrication and while Park Tools aren't shit, they still boast a primitive design and somewhat mild steel (that is more than enough for bike shop use). Most of Park Tools steel is made by Bondhus, but even Bondhus isn't as good as Wera when it comes to hexagonal keys and drive-type tools. The Wera Hex-Plus design would have most likely not stripped the head at first. I've had a lot of fastener head starting to strip or even strip using a regular hex design key and when it does, I stop right away and get my Wera. Plus they aren't crazy expensive, less than $50 online for the set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ODV0OE..._iCtVyb2531FXC

Also check out Knipex pliers if you don't know them already, especially their Raptor, Cobra and Plier Wrench models, which are very useful mechanic tools and proven design.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXOM20..._JFtVybF1449W3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4J2H0..._pGtVybEQB8QZ0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4OG94..._6GtVybBFA46V0


Glad you got it to work !


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

[sickpuppy1]

Wow, now I dont feel so bad about all the grief I had with mine yesterday,lol
say bar links were a pain on the drivers side, but passenger side? what a friggin nightmare!
And now to find out the passenger side didnt get tightened back up enough,,,,,rattle on smaller bumps...back to the garage....

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by sickpuppy1

Wow, now I dont feel so bad about all the grief I had with mine yesterday,lol
say bar links were a pain on the drivers side, but passenger side? what a friggin nightmare!
And now to find out the passenger side didnt get tightened back up enough,,,,,rattle on smaller bumps...back to the garage....

Yeah those were a pain for sure.Drivers side I destroyed the boot on the link so new one goes on next weekend...hopefully as i still need to order.The passenger side boot is still okay but for $36 CAD I may aswell do both?

I will make sure to tighten enough.

Did you just replace struts,lowering springs and struts??

I did new struts(KYB) and 1.5 lowering springs.Decided on 205/50/R16 and really liking the look and feel.45 were originally on the rims and ride was too harsh and still too much gappage.

[sickpuppy1]

Yeah and apparently I didnt get the pass side link tight again after all this! arghh
I've got a clank/rattle on all small bumps/tar strips. Yes, everything else is tight. And it also goes away on either right or left turns....only when going straight I hope I can tighten it, but as you say, for the cost of it. if I have to replace it the only real pain will be cutting the bolts off the top mount.

[sickpuppy1]

I did springs only. Bought a brand new set of Tanabe df210's from a member here for 100 shipped! Hard to pass up. I'll post a pic soon.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by sickpuppy1

Yeah and apparently I didnt get the pass side link tight again after all this! arghh
I've got a clank/rattle on all small bumps/tar strips. Yes, everything else is tight. And it also goes away on either right or left turns....only when going straight I hope I can tighten it, but as you say, for the cost of it. if I have to replace it the only real pain will be cutting the bolts off the top mount.

Using just a small propane torch works good aswell.Heat the nut up as this helped me get endlink off without damaging one of them.I should have done this to begin with.

Awesome deal on the springs!

[sickpuppy1]

So, after all was said and done, I ended up having to cut off the upper bolt of the sway bar link and replace the link due to nasty rattle, love it now!
BEFORE'

AFTER'


These are stock wheels and p185-65/15 Pirelli P4 4season Plus

[sickpuppy1]

And Auto Zone hub caps (after the OEM took a dive somewhere...) 24.95 a set of 4 LMAO

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by sickpuppy1

So, after all was said and done, I ended up having to cut off the upper bolt of the sway bar link and replace the link due to nasty rattle, love it now!
BEFORE'

AFTER'


These are stock wheels and p185-65/15 Pirelli P4 4season Plus

Looking real good....Now for some new wheels.I really like my 205/50/R16

45 was too harsh of a ride.

Do you notice how it corners nicer know?

[sickpuppy1]

Yes!! Much flatter and stable. Great investment. It is a slightly firmer ride, but my wife didn't even notice.