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Old 02-28-2019, 11:31 PM   #1
bairjo
 

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Snapped off an ATF pan bolt

Well i need some thoughts on this one. I did a drain and fill to douche the ATF system a few months ago. I planned on doing a followup drain and replace the filter today. However that did not go well. I snapped off one of the pan bolts while removing it. WTF!...torque specs for these is only 5.6 ft.lbs. That was the only one that I had any problems with. I drilled it and tried and easy out and snapped it off as well. I got it back out though. I tried and cussed at this thing and finally gave up.

What I ended up doing was putting a smear of permatex red rtv high temp gasket maker on the flat metal surfaces around bolt hole extending to the other two bolt holes on each side of it to take up any gap in the absence of that one bolt. I know putting gasket maker on ATF pans is a no-no but i had no choice. I did that along the OEM cork gasket.

So, has anyone else heard of doing something like this or am I screwed and will have leak when i fill it up and run it tomorrow?
Also, the permatex states that it needs to cure 24 hours. Is that really needed? I don't believe there is any pressure to speak on that seal is there?
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:34 AM   #2
dogsridewith
 
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What do you mean by getting it back out and finally giving up?
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Old 03-01-2019, 10:49 AM   #3
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What do you mean by getting it back out and finally giving up?
I think he is referring to managing to get the easy out back out. Broken bolt is still in there.

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Old 03-01-2019, 11:40 AM   #4
bairjo
 

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Yes, i got the easy out backed out. Sorry about that. Also, this is the first time this pan has been dropped on this car. I know they put the thread lock blue on these bolts, and the ones that came out did so without any problem.
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Old 03-01-2019, 01:17 PM   #5
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What you did is likely fine, time will tell, just keep an eye in it for leaks.

If not then use a reverse thread drill bit. I've personally had more problems then success with easy outside in small bolts in tough to reach areas. Reverse thread bits typically work well is small diameter bolts.

Bonus if you have a tap to re chase the threads after you've extracted the bolt.
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:23 PM   #6
dogsridewith
 
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My circa 1990's Toyotas are full of fine thread hex head screws that take a 10 mm socket. If one broke on removal I'd drill it out and use a pan head sheet metal screw at that location. Sharp thread and nice deep and wide single slot in the head fits a good sized screwdriver.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:29 PM   #7
bairjo
 

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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
What you did is likely fine, time will tell, just keep an eye in it for leaks.

If not then use a reverse thread drill bit. I've personally had more problems then success with easy outside in small bolts in tough to reach areas. Reverse thread bits typically work well is small diameter bolts.
I didn't mention that i tried a reverse thread bit but it jest destroyed the bolts. That's when i gave up.

It will be 24 hours around 7:30 for the RTV to cure...we shall see.

Thanks guys for your 2 cents on this.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:43 PM   #8
scylla
 
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I think you will be fine if you used the proper rtv. I'm not sure about the red rtv, but I use ultra black rtv in any areas that come in contact with oil.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:50 PM   #9
B.B._07
 
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Heat is your friend with a stuck bolt, driving the car around to heat up the engine or using a propane torch can make a big difference with stuck fasteners. Easy outs are made of hardened steel so breaking one off is a problem since drilling them out is a lot of work. If drilling it out doesn't work your last resort would be to weld a nut on the broken piece.

Most gasket makers like Permatex recommend 24 hrs but most shops don't have that luxury and don't really have problems with leaks after.
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Old 03-01-2019, 07:02 PM   #10
bairjo
 

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I went ahead just now and filled and ran it down the freeway. All is good for now...i'll post if anything shows up later.

On a related note and a word to the wise... i remember reading threads years ago on here that the Yaris has had some issues when on the freeway when giving it some gas to pass. No not pass gas but gas to pass. It would shift hard or jerk a little when shifting. At the time it was something that was just accepted as characteristic of the car. I had the same issue with my Yaris. Well, when I did the simple drain and fill a few months back that all went away...i never would have believed that it would make that much difference. So...change you ATF fluid I would say by at least 60,000 miles. My 2010 has 150,000...should have done it sooner.
Again...Thanks to you all for the input.
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:55 PM   #11
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bairjo - Could it be that the jerking shifting was because you were low on ATF? The maintenance schedule recommends checking the ATF fluid level every 30,000 miles. Years ago, my parents had a problem with their Chrysler minivan, where the van had trouble shifting. My mom took it to a transmission mechanic, who determined it was low on ATF. He topped off the ATF, and that solved the problem.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:42 AM   #12
bairjo
 

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No, my ATF level was good. I checked it for level and bad smell as well, a few times a year. But you are correct about low levels causing the same thing. I will keep that in mind in the future.
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Old 03-10-2019, 09:52 PM   #13
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Anyway, I'm glad you were able to fix the shifting issue! Now I know that, if I ever experience the same thing you, and the fluid level looks normal, then the fluid and filter needs to be changed.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:38 PM   #14
Mike Dexter
 
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Helicoil it the next time you take the pan off. You don't want to go through the same stress every ATF change.
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