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Old 04-14-2013, 05:37 PM   #37
CTScott
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Originally Posted by skoya View Post
Hey Scott,can you please help me with this transistor.I could not find nothing with this code MK 58.It has to be another name for it.
The number is just the date code. Unfortunately the MK portion has not been enough for me to figure out exactly what it is either. The only thing I can think of at this point would be for me to remove them off of one of mine.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:53 PM   #38
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I would be very grateful if you can do this for me,that's if you don't need them anymore.I need three pieces.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:19 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by skoya View Post
I would be very grateful if you can do this for me,that's if you don't need them anymore.I need three pieces.
I have one of the right hand drive ones that I just use for harvesting parts, so I can definitely ship you the three. They are tiny enough to be able to ship in an envelope as a first class letter, so shipping would only be $2.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:20 PM   #40
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Ok tell me what you need from me.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:45 AM   #41
bs00944
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Digital Display Clock

@CTScott

I have also problem with the digital display clock... Suddenly the clock started to fade...and in half an hour it was complete black.
I think it is burnt.
Do you have any of these modules available?
I have a Yaris 2007 3d VVTi 1300.
Thanks in advance!

Last edited by bs00944; 10-21-2013 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 10-04-2015, 05:39 AM   #42
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I have also problem with small display...
@skoya - did you fix your problem?
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:13 PM   #43
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I would remove a good transistor from the board and meter it, along with figure out where each pin goes. This would help identify the base, collector, and emitter. After that, I'd assume they're pretty generic transistors and just replace it with one that has the correct pinout.

But you still run some risk doing that. :S
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:34 AM   #44
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Hello All,

I have also problem with small display...
Somebody fix the issue?


BR,
Feri
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:51 AM   #45
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I am facing the same issue and will try to replace the clock from a donor cluster. In order to test the "new" cluster, can somebody point me the pinout of the connectors to be able to switch it on and see if the clock works?

It is an European Yaris, and part-number is 83800-0D660


Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
That is the one that I have. I just disassembled mine and hooked it up on my test bench to experiment with it. The clock and odometer are a separate assembly from the rest of the instrument cluster. Does anything at all display on the clock area of yours?

Attachment 50263
Thanks in advance
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:40 AM   #46
GTJos
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Hi all !
Same problem (for over a year now...)
Happy to find this forum/threat. Are there any real solutions yet ? Thank's in advance !
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:34 AM   #47
heinadriaan
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I also have the same problem...
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Old 09-06-2018, 03:53 AM   #48
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Got the same issue, tried a few things

I had the same issue on my 2007 Yaris (got it used on the cheap as my first car and there are some minor issues with it) the ICs in my unit are clearly burnt, they seem to be 6 BJTs or MOSFETs in parallel each with a 22 Ohm resistor to balance load. This part of the circuit seems to provide power to the cathode filaments in the fluorescent display and the parallel design makes it so that if one of the ICs gives up the ghost, the other 5 will follow soon after, since they have to split the load across 5 instead of 6. The clock is not an LCD, but rather a Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD), I could't find any information on this specific panel, but in general a voltage of about 2-3V is used on the cathode filaments; I first tried to replace the 6 ICs with a single powerful MOSFET, this kinda worked, but at 12V source to drain and you don't want that going to the filaments! Next step was to cut out the MOSFET and use a buck converter to provide steady 3V DC power. The screen turnes on, but the filament glows dimply orange and the numbers are dimmer than they should; probing the pins with the display on reveals that the anodes are only getting about 2V, if I understand this correctly, they should have a much higher voltage (10-30V), maybe some other part of the circuit is faulty? Another possibility is that the original power circuitry provided a negative bias voltage to the cathode filament respective to the anodes hence why my approach works, but dimly. At this point this is just speculation; I could disassemble the main VFD and probe that, but I'm too afraid of ruining it since I'd like to still be able to see how fast I'm going at the end of all this :)

If any of you has suggestions or can point out things I did wrong, I would be grateful!
Attached Images
File Type: png Schermata 2018-08-27 alle 11.00.20.png (506.7 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg vfd yaris.jpg (394.6 KB, 49 views)
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:50 AM   #49
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I have same problem also with 2007 Yaris. I tried to repair solderings on fets and display now lights up and kinda works but fets are damn hot!

I will cotinue to work on issue. If anyone has figured out good fix for this please post some hints!
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Old 11-04-2018, 10:13 AM   #50
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Might it be 2SB799 transistors? The marking ("MK") is consistent with that.
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Old 11-24-2018, 07:19 AM   #51
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I solved the problem.
Looks like I was right, these are 2SB799 PNP transistors. I couldn't source them so I bought an equivalent BCX53 reference. I think it even has a somewhat higher nominal current so it should be better than the original ones.
I replaced the 6 transistors with these and everything works perfectly now!

Total time all included around 2h so it's a quick fix too.

My notes on how to disassemble it:
- take out the two side plastic parts (passenger airbag and warning button), these are just plastic clips so pull towards you
- remove the cover of the speedometer by pulling towards you (takes some force)
- remove two screws holding the meter in place
- pull the meter out, you need to rotate/warp the plastic a little
- go back to your desk and remove 2 screws at the back of the unit + the clips
- pull the back of the unit, be careful there is a mirror inside that is going to fall off
- disconnect the "mainboard" (10x10cm board, just pull it out it will disconnect)
- remove 1 screw on the front cover, then remove the front cover (many clips)
- remove the plastic cover of the main display (4 screws + 1 clip + rotate it)
- disconnect the ribbon cable of the main display and note what path it takes
- you can now pull out the power board/main board by removing the two clips and pulling towards you, which will disconnect the clock VFD

change the transistors, do everything in the opposite order, get the champagne out.
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