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Old 03-13-2010, 09:19 PM   #19
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5w-30 for both the '08 sedan and 2010 3 door . PENNZOIL Platinum in the 3 door and SHELL Full Synthetic in the '08 sedan . May try the PENNZOIL Platinum ULTRA for next oil change in 1 of the 2 , depending on the cost per quart .
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:20 AM   #20
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Mobil 1 5W-30

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Old 03-14-2010, 05:58 PM   #21
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You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle. The National Ad Board branch of the BBB alowed Castrol to market Syntec as synthetic even though it is just highly refined petroleum oil. Valvoline synpower is not synthetic, M1 5w-30 is not synthetic. You have to import a Euro oil to get a real syn these days. Does it matter? Yes because they are charging you a high price for something that doesnt cost the oil co's much premium to blend over a "plain jane" conventional. You are not getting what you paid for. It's a freaking joke, and its on you.

Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 03-14-2010 at 06:00 PM. Reason: schpellink airRrr
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Old 03-14-2010, 07:14 PM   #22
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You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle.
I'm more interested in the performance of the oil in the bottle for my particular application than I am in designations of synthetic vs nonsynthetic.

What are the oil's properties in my engine in my use case? If some highly refined natural source component adds properties that would be more difficult or expensive to attain from scratch, then I'm fine with that.

I'm more concerned with the motives for the target specs of an oil than I am in the sources of the components or that oil.

Arguably, management has been involved in the decision to recommend GF-4 oils. I'd like to see more illumination thrown upon the reasons for the disagreements among American, German, and Japanese manufactueres regarding oil specs. I would particularly be interested in a panel discussion between *engineers* of the respective companies. Excluding anyone *but* engineers.

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Old 03-14-2010, 11:26 PM   #23
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from the U.O.A.s I've seen at BOBISTHEOILGUY for the PENNZOIL Platinum and SHELL Full Synthetic 5w-30 is enough for me to use them . Plus have been paying little over $3 ( includes tax ) a quart for these oils the past 3 years . So , don't feel all that screwed .
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:31 PM   #24
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went to WAL-MART to check on prices for the Pennzoil PLATINUM Ultra earlier to find 5 quart jug for $28.50 and the quart for $6.87 . Not to bad . Hopefully SOPUS will have some rebates soon to knock cost down . Then will give the 5w-30 ULTRA a try . Maybe the 5w-20 instead . What's your take on the 5w-20 ULTRA for the YARIS ?
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:28 PM   #25
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What's oil? jk 5w-20 full synthetic.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:55 PM   #26
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What's your take on the 5w-20 ULTRA for the YARIS ?
Well, my take is that I wouldn't let a sub 2.8 HTHS oil near any of my cars. There are two arguments for low viscosity oils:

1. It saves maybe 1% on fuel

2. It gets to critical engine parts quicker after start.

You can evaluate the benefits of saving 1% on fuel for yourself. And if you are using a synthetic oil with any ester component at all, then the polar ester molecules will form a weak chemical bond with the metal of the engine parts, and you won't need to worry about oil getting there faster after start. It's already there. Always.

The TSB that Toyota released regarding their recommendation of GF-4 oils, which happened (confusingly) to use 5w20 as an example, has been widely misinterpreted by folks who don't *carefully read the contents of the second red box*.

The final part of the TSB expresses an intention, by Toyota, to recommend thinner oils for post-2006 NZ series engines. And yet... they seem actively to have done an about face upon that. 5w30 is still recommended for the 2010 Yaris' NZ engine. To me, this speaks more loudly than if they had simply remained silent upon the matter. What made them actively decide *not* to actually recommend 5w20 on the 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2010 Yaris models, I wonder?

I probably shouldn't go so far as to make an actual recommendation here... but... oh, what the hell... *don't use 20wt oil in your Yaris*.

-Steve
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:57 PM   #27
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thanks , will stick with the 5w-30 . Bummer can only get Euro Ultra in a drum . Need to do oil changes soon and use the stash of SHELL full synthetic up and go with the American ULTRA 5w-30 in the fall . SOPUS rules .
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:09 PM   #28
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Running with the wolf

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth View Post
You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle. The National Ad Board branch of the BBB alowed Castrol to market Syntec as synthetic even though it is just highly refined petroleum oil. Valvoline synpower is not synthetic, M1 5w-30 is not synthetic. You have to import a Euro oil to get a real syn these days. Does it matter? Yes because they are charging you a high price for something that doesnt cost the oil co's much premium to blend over a "plain jane" conventional. You are not getting what you paid for. It's a freaking joke, and its on you.
What about Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30? I just ordered me a case of it, along with a case of their SD 5W30 for a friend.

The Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30 mentioned a synthetic base stock...I believe both the SYN and the HD 5W30s are ACEA A5/B5 rated, unless I read that wrong. I've been well pleased w/ the PP, the M1 0W30 seems good - nice & quiet like the PP at least - but I thought it was time for a change & wanted to be different.

Almost decided to go with Amalie oil because I know it's "Better than it has to be" ...but I finally decided upon the Wolf's Head because it's "The finest of the fine since 1879"
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:45 PM   #29
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1st,

Have you done any UOAs on the Platinum or M1 yet?
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:09 PM   #30
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1st,

Have you done any UOAs on the Platinum or M1 yet?
No, not yet. I was going to do the M1 first, then run a test on the PP, but since I'm going to start using Wolf's Head I think I'll still do the UOA on the M1 to see how it compares to the Wolf's Head when I eventually get around to doing a UOA on it. The Wolf's Head seemed to be priced right at around $4.60 shipped.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:14 AM   #31
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ive been running M1 0-40 for the last 55K miles.
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stToyota View Post
What about Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30? I just ordered me a case of it, along with a case of their SD 5W30 for a friend.

The Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30 mentioned a synthetic base stock...I believe both the SYN and the HD 5W30s are ACEA A5/B5 rated, unless I read that wrong. I've been well pleased w/ the PP, the M1 0W30 seems good - nice & quiet like the PP at least - but I thought it was time for a change & wanted to be different.

Almost decided to go with Amalie oil because I know it's "Better than it has to be" ...but I finally decided upon the Wolf's Head because it's "The finest of the fine since 1879"
WH SynPack base stock is CAS# 64742-54-7,mildly hydrotreated heavy paraffinic distilate petroleum oil.

some CAS# involving motor oil (Thanks MGB-V8!)
Mineral Paraffininc Base Oil - 64742-54-7; VI of +94 to 120, any group.

Mineral Naphthenic Base Oil - 64741-96-4; VI of -15, any group.

Mineral Aromatic Base Oil - 64742-03-7; VI of -185, any group.

Hydrotreated paraffininc, heavy - 64742-52-5
Hydrotreated paraffinic, light - 64742-53-6

PAO's: 68649-12-7, 68037-01-4, 163149-29-9, 151006-63-2, 151006-62-1, 151006-60-9. VII's of +155 or greater.

Diester - 28472-97-1; VII's average +170.

VII Copolymers - 127883-08-3


Additives:
ZDDP Type Adds: 68649-42-3, XXXXX-46-6.

Calcium Sulfonates: 61789-86-4

Moly Dithiophosphate - 68958-92-7 or 68958-92-9

Moly Disulfide Powders - 1317-33-5


M1 Supersyn Antiwear Technology
This is a Polyol TME

Polyol esters have lower coefficients of friction than either diesters or PAO's.

By adding a polyol ester at least 5-10% to a PAO or mineral oil reduces base oil friction remarkably. So esters are natural Friction Modifiers.

Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 03-25-2010 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:21 PM   #33
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ive been running M1 0-40 for the last 55K miles.
That's Mobil 1 best gasoline passenger car oil - Does it seem thick? hOWS THE FULL THROTTLE POWER 4-6k rpm? WHAT FILTER DO YOU RUN WITH IT? WHY IS MY CAPS LOCK STuck - sorry
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:29 PM   #34
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Some info about RTS 5w-40 WAX Synthetic:

Shell Synthetic is made with Shell's XHVI base oil, which unlike other Group IIIs does not begin as distilled crude oil, hence of all Group III base oils, XHVI is truly the only one that can legitimately be called "synthetic." XHVI is a wax isomerate, meaning that it is made from the slack wax removed from distilled crude in normal solvent dewaxing. This slack wax is catalytically transformed (isomerized) and hydrofinished into a chemically pure base oil which rivals PAO in virtually every category. There are other "synthetic" oils out there based on Group III, but Shell's is unique in that it uses XHVI base oil. Chevron and Petro-Canada produce Group III base oils that come close to XHVI, but even though these oils are all hydroprocessed and utilize the same type of isomerization technology employed in the making of XHVI, they are not the same thing. Only XHVI is made from pure petroleum slack wax and its CAS number is 92026-09-4. The CAS number for the more typical all-hydroprocessed Group III base oils is 64742-54-7. If you want to know what your "synthetic" oil is made from, take a look at the MSDS and look for these numbers. ( One CAS number for PAO is 68037-01-4).

In brief, don't be so quick to dismiss Shell Synthetic as just another "synthetic pretender." It's made with the same base oil as Shell's Helix Ultra, and everytime you see Ferrari win a Formula 1 race, that's the oil in the engine.

Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 03-25-2010 at 06:32 PM. Reason: double r
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:42 PM   #35
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That's Mobil 1 best gasoline passenger car oil - Does it seem thick? hOWS THE FULL THROTTLE POWER 4-6k rpm? WHAT FILTER DO YOU RUN WITH IT? WHY IS MY CAPS LOCK STuck - sorry

doesnt seem thick to me, ive been using M1 filters, no noticeable change in fuel economy, way less chain and valve noise, no change in performance that i saw. i still beat the crap out of it on weekends at the track and drive it to work daily 32 miles each way on the highway. after sending a few samples to blackstone labs and them only finding oil in my oil i think its doing the job.
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:55 PM   #36
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so I take it that SHELL FUll Synthetic 5w-30 and their other weights are a good thing ? If so , thanks for the info . How about the regular PLATINUM , the new ULTRA , and the newbie EURO ? Thanks
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