DIY: A/C Insulation - Page 7 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yaris Hilton · 07-08-2009, 09:48 AM

Might be the tetanus setting in...

Lafiro · 07-08-2009, 10:37 AM

I thought about this weeks ago and wanted to post this, but school and work and internship and other jobs are taking my life over.

Now that I see lots are doing this little trick, I will be going today to buy myself that foam.

Question is, what size diameter did you buy? Maybe home depot is a good place to buy it?

Thanks!

n00b · 07-08-2009, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

no need to wrap the second one , there is no point in wrapping it since the system needs to be hot on that side for the loop.

http://www.energyquest.ca.gov/how_it...nditioner.html

Quote:

When the working fluid leaves the condenser, its temperature is much cooler and it has changed from a gas to a liquid under high pressure. The liquid goes into the evaporator through a very tiny, narrow hole. On the other side, the liquid's pressure drops. When it does it begins to evaporate into a gas.

I guess you should just bypass the condenser then!

Quote:

Originally Posted by andaconda

Man, I'm I getting confused now...

The low pressure line is for refrigerant flowing to the compressor. The high pressure line is for refrigerant flowing into the cabin.

Lafiro · 07-08-2009, 02:34 PM

Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now?

Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

EasyDriver · 07-08-2009, 03:53 PM

try this discussion.....http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d+cabin+filter

b_hickman11 · 07-08-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lafiro

Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now?

Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

It has nothing to do with the cabin air filter.

Henry G. · 07-08-2009, 05:45 PM

Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C!
Try and argue that......
BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

n00b · 07-08-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry G.

Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C!
Try and argue that......
BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

If the goal is to get colder air, you want to insulate both if possible. From the pictures posted, it looks like you can insulate the high pressure line where the exaust manifold is (that would be an important place to insulate since it's so close to a heat source).

The high pressure line should not be hot (with the exception being the line from the compressor to the condenser) or that means your condenser is not cooling the refrigerant.

http://movacs.com/How%20it%20works/index.html

n00b · 07-08-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

basically you want to keep whats cool cooler and whats warm warmer

Then Denso failed by making a better condenser that cools the refrigerant even more!

http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/c...condenser.html

mikenacarato · 07-08-2009, 06:51 PM

n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

Henry G. · 07-08-2009, 07:16 PM

Good post and diagram PK.
I just decided with that roll of tape there I would finish the job and wrap everything on the big line (notice I'm staying out of the technical argument by not naming it):

Wrapped the "can" portion of the line by taking two pieces of equal length insulation and doing the zip tie/tape thing.

Did the piece of line that runs against the inner fender, kind of a pain. I found the trick was to cut the piece to the right length, take it back off, install 2 already looped(just barely so as to leave the maximum room) on the pipe, put the insulation back on then wiggle the zip tie loops over either ends and then tighten them.

After that section this one was easy, I used tape again even though I dont think heat is a concern way up front but because I figure the engine bay heat in general is likely to harden the zip ties quickly making them brittle and breaking them, so the tape was more of a securing thing.

And this pic is from under the car, this section of pipe is easier to do most of the work from under the car believe it or not. Same thing zip tie and tape.

n00b · 07-08-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

To answer your's and PK198105's question of driving a Yaris, I do not. I drive an Echo (which has crappier a/c than the Yaris).

I don't feel like posting in the welcome forum. I've never done that on any of the forums I am a member of.

Sodium Duck · 07-08-2009, 07:39 PM

Hence your user name... newbert.

talnlnky · 07-08-2009, 07:54 PM

you all make this way too hard.

1)The cooler the hot side, the cooler the cold side, which means the cooler the air will be.

2)The cooler you can keep the cold side before it reaches the cabin, also the cooler your air will be.

The high temp loam plus high temp/fire retardant foam is what I would use too. That, or I think i've seen hi-temp split rubber tubing before.

b_hickman11 · 07-08-2009, 08:11 PM

Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

n00b · 07-08-2009, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b_hickman11

Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

CTScott · 07-08-2009, 08:38 PM

It shouldn't cause any issues. Normally with an AC system you insulate the suction side if the system is cooling only, and both suction and discharge if it is a reverse cycle system (i.e heat pump).

The Yaris's AC amplifier (ecu for the AC system) has temperature and pressure sensors to keep it from killing the compressor if the coils freeze up. Also, I don't think that this could cause the system to suddenly become so efficient that it can't dehumidify the air before reaching the desired inside temp (like a severely over-sized central air system in a house). I haven't seen the inside of the airbox, but the mold and stink issue is probably being caused by the condensate not properly draining (or maybe soaking into an insulation material within the box). This could explain why the TSB involves replacing the airbox.

EasyDriver · 07-08-2009, 09:42 PM

I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing department. $1.38 for a 6 foot piece....all you'll need and then some. I thought I got the 1/2 inch ID, but I just measured a left over piece and it was 1 3/8 OD and 3/4 ID. I got the zip ties at Wallyworld, the 100 pack in the automotive area was less than $3...fortunately I didn't need a 100 though!

Good luck!

07-08-2009, 03:53 PM	#113
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	funky air... try this discussion.....http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d+cabin+filter

07-08-2009, 07:39 PM	#121
Sodium Duck ╚══════════RN Drives: 2008 Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Mass. Posts: 999	Hence your user name... newbert. __________________ 42.88

07-08-2009, 07:54 PM	#122
talnlnky Audio Junky Drives: 08 liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Spokane, Wa Posts: 1,412	you all make this way too hard. 1)The cooler the hot side, the cooler the cold side, which means the cooler the air will be. 2)The cooler you can keep the cold side before it reaches the cabin, also the cooler your air will be. The high temp loam plus high temp/fire retardant foam is what I would use too. That, or I think i've seen hi-temp split rubber tubing before. __________________

07-08-2009, 09:42 PM	#126
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	pipe insulation size... I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing department. $1.38 for a 6 foot piece....all you'll need and then some. I thought I got the 1/2 inch ID, but I just measured a left over piece and it was 1 3/8 OD and 3/4 ID. I got the zip ties at Wallyworld, the 100 pack in the automotive area was less than $3...fortunately I didn't need a 100 though! Good luck!

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07-08-2009, 09:48 AM	#109
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Might be the tetanus setting in...

07-08-2009, 10:37 AM	#110
Lafiro Drives: 06 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 694	I thought about this weeks ago and wanted to post this, but school and work and internship and other jobs are taking my life over. Now that I see lots are doing this little trick, I will be going today to buy myself that foam. Question is, what size diameter did you buy? Maybe home depot is a good place to buy it? Thanks!

07-08-2009, 02:34 PM	#112
Lafiro Drives: 06 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now? Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

07-08-2009, 05:45 PM	#115
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C! Try and argue that...... BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

07-08-2009, 06:51 PM	#118
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

07-08-2009, 07:16 PM	#119
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Good post and diagram PK. I just decided with that roll of tape there I would finish the job and wrap everything on the big line (notice I'm staying out of the technical argument by not naming it): Wrapped the "can" portion of the line by taking two pieces of equal length insulation and doing the zip tie/tape thing. Did the piece of line that runs against the inner fender, kind of a pain. I found the trick was to cut the piece to the right length, take it back off, install 2 already looped(just barely so as to leave the maximum room) on the pipe, put the insulation back on then wiggle the zip tie loops over either ends and then tighten them. After that section this one was easy, I used tape again even though I dont think heat is a concern way up front but because I figure the engine bay heat in general is likely to harden the zip ties quickly making them brittle and breaking them, so the tape was more of a securing thing. And this pic is from under the car, this section of pipe is easier to do most of the work from under the car believe it or not. Same thing zip tie and tape.

07-08-2009, 08:11 PM	#123
b_hickman11 Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 899	Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

07-08-2009, 08:38 PM	#125
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	It shouldn't cause any issues. Normally with an AC system you insulate the suction side if the system is cooling only, and both suction and discharge if it is a reverse cycle system (i.e heat pump). The Yaris's AC amplifier (ecu for the AC system) has temperature and pressure sensors to keep it from killing the compressor if the coils freeze up. Also, I don't think that this could cause the system to suddenly become so efficient that it can't dehumidify the air before reaching the desired inside temp (like a severely over-sized central air system in a house). I haven't seen the inside of the airbox, but the mold and stink issue is probably being caused by the condensate not properly draining (or maybe soaking into an insulation material within the box). This could explain why the TSB involves replacing the airbox.