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Old 05-27-2014, 05:25 PM   #1
Rodger Wilco
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris
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Air Conditioner Puzzler... Any Ideas?

Here's a real head scratcher:

Having problems with my air conditioner working intermittently. It will turn on and work great for a while and then at random start blowing dry unconditioned air.

Also sometimes I cannot get the AC to engage no matter what the switch position. I will try for a couple minutes with no luck and try again ten minutes later and it turns on just like normal.

I am thinking that this must be a computer issue? Some sort of programing or sensor? Maybe a switch issue... not sure the switch will illuminate when depressed and in AC mode just like normal.

When it works it works great so I know that it is not a compressor or freon issue.

2010 Yaris HB only 14,900 miles, great car all around.

I live in Phoenix it was 106 today and not even June yet, any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:50 PM   #2
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Sounds like you're low on refrigerant. Buy an ac recharge kit at a parts store. Read instructions it's very easy to do.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:56 PM   #3
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There is a pressure transducer next to the sight glass on the aluminum tubing. A few have had that go bad resulting in a similar condition. The best first step would be to have the pressure checked to see if you are actually low on refrigerant or not. Some of the DIY refill kits have a gauge that gives you a general idea, but that just measures the low pressure side. A proper testing will measure both to verify that the compressor is functioning. You can actually pickup a DIY manifold gauge set for about $60, if you want to test it yourself.
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:53 AM   #4
Zantiszar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
There is a pressure transducer next to the sight glass on the aluminum tubing. A few have had that go bad resulting in a similar condition. The best first step would be to have the pressure checked to see if you are actually low on refrigerant or not. Some of the DIY refill kits have a gauge that gives you a general idea, but that just measures the low pressure side. A proper testing will measure both to verify that the compressor is functioning. You can actually pickup a DIY manifold gauge set for about $60, if you want to test it yourself.

Indeed this would be the best way to go especially cause it sounds like low A/C refrigerant but I had a cause where the expansion valve was not working correctly so on the low side it looked like low A/C and on high side it was climbing up like crazy cause the A/C to shut off then after 10-15 mins when it cooled down it started working again


Sent my iPush 4s?
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:02 AM   #5
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If your car is still under warranty just take it to the dealer. That's low millage for something to go wrong with the A/C
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:53 PM   #6
Rodger Wilco
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
There is a pressure transducer next to the sight glass on the aluminum tubing. A few have had that go bad resulting in a similar condition. The best first step would be to have the pressure checked to see if you are actually low on refrigerant or not. Some of the DIY refill kits have a gauge that gives you a general idea, but that just measures the low pressure side. A proper testing will measure both to verify that the compressor is functioning. You can actually pickup a DIY manifold gauge set for about $60, if you want to test it yourself.
Hey thanks for the response guys. Sorry for the late response I have been out of town for work a lot and away from my computer. Unfortunately I don't think we are out of the woods yet on this one.

I first went to the Auto Zone and bought the $30 can of refrigerant and hooked it up. The System took about half the can and I took this as a good sign. Buutt.... the AC did not work at all after that, so I knew the pressure was all off.

So I took the car to a friend of mine who works at a VW dealership. He hooked it up to a machine that flushed the refrigerant completely, checked for leaks and filled it to the exact proper level. (.86lbs I believe per the placard underneath the hood).

After that I was sure that we had it fixed. Sadly I am experiencing the same issues; the AC will disengage at random/ will not engage when I need it. (and I really do need it, this is PHX!)

@CTScott tell me more about this pressure transducer...

One thing I have noticed is that the big fan behind the radiator (what I would calla clutch fan) is not always on when the AC is selected on. It was my belief that this fan needed to be always running with the AC on... Anyone know for sure?
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodger Wilco View Post
Hey thanks for the response guys. Sorry for the late response I have been out of town for work a lot and away from my computer. Unfortunately I don't think we are out of the woods yet on this one.

I first went to the Auto Zone and bought the $30 can of refrigerant and hooked it up. The System took about half the can and I took this as a good sign. Buutt.... the AC did not work at all after that, so I knew the pressure was all off.

So I took the car to a friend of mine who works at a VW dealership. He hooked it up to a machine that flushed the refrigerant completely, checked for leaks and filled it to the exact proper level. (.86lbs I believe per the placard underneath the hood).

After that I was sure that we had it fixed. Sadly I am experiencing the same issues; the AC will disengage at random/ will not engage when I need it. (and I really do need it, this is PHX!)

@CTScott tell me more about this pressure transducer...

One thing I have noticed is that the big fan behind the radiator (what I would calla clutch fan) is not always on when the AC is selected on. It was my belief that this fan needed to be always running with the AC on... Anyone know for sure?

The pressure transducer is mounted to the aluminum tubing, right next to the sight glass.

The fan will run whenever the compressor is engaged. If the AC ECU decides that it is not happy and it shuts off the compressor the fan will also shut off (if it doesn't need to be on for the coolant).
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:16 PM   #8
Rodger Wilco
 
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The pressure transducer is mounted to the aluminum tubing, right next to the sight glass.

The fan will run whenever the compressor is engaged. If the AC ECU decides that it is not happy and it shuts off the compressor the fan will also shut off (if it doesn't need to be on for the coolant).
So just to make sure I am understanding you correctly, the fan doesn't necessarily need to be on anytime the AC is working properly only when the compressor is actually compressing?

How do I check a pressure transducer? How would I know if mine was bad?

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodger Wilco View Post
So just to make sure I am understanding you correctly, the fan doesn't necessarily need to be on anytime the AC is working properly only when the compressor is actually compressing?

How do I check a pressure transducer? How would I know if mine was bad?

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!
Correct - Typically though with the simple A/C system of the yaris, almost the entire time the button is pressed the compressor is engaged.

For the transducer you can measure the voltage on the grey wire with the AC on and you should see between 0.76 and 4.74 volts.
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