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Old 08-31-2009, 05:53 PM   #37
cali yaris
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^ yeah I know. Sorry. "We now return you to your normal programming".
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:02 PM   #38
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The person I talked to was really friendly. She said even with mods it might be covered but it wasn't. Job got done fast so I'm gonna go pick it up now. I left the switch on "off" so they may have taken it for a spin only to realize that it's not quite as fast as they were hoping.
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:54 AM   #39
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Seems like the OP over tightened the belt or put that crank pully on wrong. Reason why the belt broke was most likely because he over tightned it and because it was so tight it messed up the seal. Sucks to be him. This is a perfect example of why you shouldn't get into things if you don't know what your doing.
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:29 AM   #40
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^ Also rude.
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:42 AM   #41
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^ Also rude.
Not rude, its the facts. It was ment to inform people and stop people from making the same mistakes. Sometimes the truth hurts. Man up and learn from it.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:52 AM   #42
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Sorry camelll I didn't mean to offend you man. I was just in a fritz and looking for a guide to fixing the seal on Crank. I appreciate everybody's input. Fact is I don't know what really caused the seal to break. The amount of tension that I put on the belt is no more than how much tension I have right now(dealer set it). But everything is good now and all fixed up.
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:11 PM   #43
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in the photos that you posted it appears that the cord from the failed belt wound around the crank behind the red pulley. if that bit of cord rotating with the crank was against the seal, i would think it would damage the seal in no time but just from looking at your pictures i would think that removing the pulley and replacing the seal would not be too hard. good luck
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:59 AM   #44
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Congrats on fixing it. You should have replaced the seal yourself, would have saved yourself a lot of money and time.
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:08 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
ok let's settle this crank pulley argument.

Here is the 1NZ-FE stock crank pulley (from my car), clearly showing the rubber (or "composite", but seems like rubber to me) ring embedded in the pulley.

ahh thanks for the pics, Garm... I was about to go dig out my old one to see if I could see any dampening, for my own edification. I really don't think a NST light or 10% underdrive pulley would have a problem with vibration. Being lighter weight and precision machined, I can't imagine it vibrating worse than the heavy stock one...
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