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Old 09-02-2010, 11:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982 View Post
Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

I am trying to figure out how the door control receiver knows that the engine is running. The door control receiver only has a 2 wire connection to the body ECU. The red wire is the door control receiver input wire. You could try popping that pin to see if blocking comm in that direction keeps it from being told that the engine is running.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:19 PM   #38
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Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982 View Post
Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.
Did you try the white separately as well? The reason I ask it that the two are listed as input an output, but it is not clear as to whether the in and out are relative to the body ECU or to the door control receiver.

The service manual doesn't detail the comm between the two, and since it is two wire, instead of one I believe that rather than being LIN bus, like a lot of the other subsystems are to their respective ECU, that it is simply a simple pulse signal in either direction. You could verify that with a voltmeter, by watching the white and red relative to body ground, while hitting the remote.
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:25 PM   #40
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can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:33 PM   #41
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can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks
If you did, then ON and ACC would act the same when you turn the key.
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:49 AM   #42
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because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:05 AM   #43
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because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks
If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:19 PM   #44
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If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.
ok, thanks man...
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:24 PM   #45
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Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:43 PM   #46
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Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?
It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

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Old 10-14-2010, 02:53 PM   #47
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It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching and ground for - switching, so I guess I should put 1 to chasis.

Thanks for the clarification!

edit: Yeap, that worked. Thanks again for the clarification on the switching!
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:56 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by adam1981 View Post
I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching, so I guess that is what I need to do.
Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:02 PM   #49
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Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?
I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:25 PM   #50
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I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!
Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:56 PM   #51
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Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.
Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:48 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by adam1981 View Post
Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...
Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:30 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39
Yeah, it said I would prob have to use a relay on the lights.

You are awesome! Thanks! Hopefully I can get these last few connections in tomorrow.
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:20 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39
4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help!
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