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Old 04-04-2013, 06:39 PM   #19
helladopebev
 
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Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna View Post
How low are you planning on going? If you want to go low(er), go with the Megan coilovers since the Tein coilovers don't really drop the car that low. If you're just going with springs, the Tein S.Tech's (which I'm on), are your best bet. I believe the Kido coilovers also go lower than the Tein coilvoers.


NorCal has some nice cars...but also has its share of not so tastefully modded cars.
Well I was thinking I wanted to go as low as possible without rolling my fenders but now that I would be up for rolling them I would go super low. But then I think about the roads so maybe not so low. I'm going to start off with Meghan racing nd see how it is, I could always change it up so I'm not too worried. I also keep going back nd forth on 16's or 17's!!! :( I need help haha.

Oh I bet! In Florida there's not that many nice cars
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:22 PM   #20
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The nice thing with coilovers is that you can go as low as it can, and just keep raising it up until you're comfortable with the road condition.

Like I said, 17's would be best for the sedan. haha. But the face design of the wheel plays a role as well. Some rims just don't look good in 17's.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna View Post
17's won't necessarily be heavier. There are some 17's out there that weigh 13 lbs, and some 16's out there weigh over 20 lbs. Now, 17's have a farther rotational mass than 17's, but then you'd have to factor in tire weight as well.

The face design also plays a role in how the wheel will look. My 17" Enkei OR52's had thin spokes, leaving a lot of space between the 6 spokes. This made the wheels look rather large compared to my other 17's.

It also depends on the intent of the rims. Will they be purely show, purely go, or a little bit of both? imo, 17's for show, 15's for go, and 16's for a little bit of both worlds.
That's true.
My 16's weight 11 lbs each. I just mean in general; the bigger the wheel you get the more heavier it is, but it does depend on which one you get.


It all depends on user preference I guess. I don't want my wheels to be TOO big, but I want them to look like they belong on the car. I think 16 was the perfect size for me.
17 was a very close second though, it took me a long time to decide between the 2 and I eventually chose 16.

If I had the sedan, i'd honestly have probably gone with 17's.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:03 AM   #22
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The nice thing with coilovers is that you can go as low as it can, and just keep raising it up until you're comfortable with the road condition.

Like I said, 17's would be best for the sedan. haha. But the face design of the wheel plays a role as well. Some rims just don't look good in 17's.
Yeah you're right I'm not worried about the suspension.
I'm just gonna do that, I want XXR 531's, 17x8 in the front nd 17x9 in the back.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #23
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Yeah you're right I'm not worried about the suspension.
I'm just gonna do that, I want XXR 531's, 17x8 in the front nd 17x9 in the back.
If you want the same amount of poke as my rear, you'd have to go with 17x9, ET45. The problem now becomes inner clearance. A wheel with those specs will have a full inch of less inner clearance, so I don't know if it will clear the rear shocks.
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #24
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If you want the same amount of poke as my rear, you'd have to go with 17x9, ET45. The problem now becomes inner clearance. A wheel with those specs will have a full inch of less inner clearance, so I don't know if it will clear the rear shocks.
Ohh I see, damn that sucks :( well maybe I can do a little bet less offset nd maybe that could work?
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:28 PM   #25
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17x9.75 +25 up front leaves about 1-2mm clearance with the thinner coilover style struts (prolly wont fit with stock shocks)

17x9.75 +25 in the rear left me with i think 1.5" of inner clearance and the 17x9 +45 will sit about an inch more inside the fender so you should be left with about a half inch of clearance... more than enough


... and florida? Im in Tampa. Where are you located?
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 1.5 View Post
17x9.75 +25 up front leaves about 1-2mm clearance with the thinner coilover style struts (prolly wont fit with stock shocks)

17x9.75 +25 in the rear left me with i think 1.5" of inner clearance and the 17x9 +45 will sit about an inch more inside the fender so you should be left with about a half inch of clearance... more than enough


... and florida? Im in Tampa. Where are you located?
Actually, comparing 17x9, ET45 to 17x9.75, ET25, inner clearance for the 9j, ET45 rim will be 10mm less and have 30mm less poke compared to the 9.25j, ET25 rim.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:59 PM   #27
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Woops, thought I read "left with about an inch of clearance."

lol

Mybad.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:00 PM   #28
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Ohh I see, damn that sucks :( well maybe I can do a little bet less offset nd maybe that could work?
Less offset on the same width rim will translate to more poke. If that's your style, go for it. I personally don't like the rim lip going a few mm past the fender, but that's just me.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:02 PM   #29
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If you can see this pic



These are my friends' xB2 (left) and xB1 (right). I want my my stance and fitment to be like my friend's xB1.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:16 PM   #30
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Why no love for 13s and 14s? So much more fun.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:27 PM   #31
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Why no love for 13s and 14s? So much more fun.
While extremely light (a friend has 6.5lb CE28's in 14's), they limit the use of BBK (for those who want that), have limited widths unless you want to spend a ton for vintage race only magnesium rims (even those CE28's are "just" 5 or 5.5 inches wide), harder to find specs for those who like flush/hellaflush (mix this with narrow widths, and it's nearly impossible to have a set for stance and fitment), and lastly, the sidewall profile is so large that there will be a lot of sidewall flex (friend with those CE28's complains about how his car/suspension has almost no roll, but the tires makes it "mushy").
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:29 PM   #32
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17x9.75 +25 up front leaves about 1-2mm clearance with the thinner coilover style struts (prolly wont fit with stock shocks)

17x9.75 +25 in the rear left me with i think 1.5" of inner clearance and the 17x9 +45 will sit about an inch more inside the fender so you should be left with about a half inch of clearance... more than enough


... and florida? Im in Tampa. Where are you located?
I like a lot of offset though so +45 is not my steelo.
Yes sir, I live in bradenton but I go to Tampa all the time. These past couple of weekends I've been out there at Gandy nd the causeway nd stuff with my boyfriend watching all the races, it's awesome!
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:30 PM   #33
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If you can see this pic



These are my friends' xB2 (left) and xB1 (right). I want my my stance and fitment to be like my friend's xB1.
NICEEE! That's the style I love haha
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:52 AM   #34
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These are 16" x 8" +20 offset rims on 195/45/16 tires on tein s-tech springs



I would love to slam it, but it will be un useable where i live

Last edited by lemonshoe; 10-09-2013 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #35
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I would love to slam it, but it will be un useable where i live
VERY nice ride, kabayan!

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Old 11-19-2013, 01:56 AM   #36
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Compared to 16s, 17s require more energy to spin and stop, making the car even slower than it already is. Consider that the majority of the wheels' weight is on the outermost part (i.e. circumference) of the wheel. This means that even a 1- or 2- lb. difference is magnified since it's located outside of a larger radius. Conversely, the same wheel in a 16" diameter is lighter with all of its weight located inside of a smaller radius.

As the yarisworld knows, the Yaris isn't known for its incredible tire-melting torque (or reasonable throttle response, or logical dimensions, or a steering wheel that telescopes, or adequate-length front suspension arms, or a rear anti-roll bar, or a clutch that can go more than 4000 miles without juddering, or having all the jacking tools in one place in the car, or A/C that doesn't smell like a spore-releasing fungal megacolony, or anything significantly improved since 2007, or not looking like a turtle, albeit not as fast), so putting heavy metal at all four corners is a step backwards in performance. It's also doubtful that you can achieve the same tire circumference using 17" wheels; The tires will be larger than OEM, effectively making all the gears taller, and making the car accelerate slower at all speeds, all the time. And the absolute last thing the Yaris needs is higher gearing. Plus the tiny, punishingly stiff sidewall of 17" tires that resemble rubber bands, combined with the Yaris' short wheelbase and short front suspension arms, will make the car even more uncomfortable over road bumps and undulations than it is in stock form, with your being more susceptible to breaking a steel belt over potholes and enjoying more trips to the shop for front end alignments.

But it's your car.

Last edited by juicyjosh; 11-19-2013 at 02:06 AM.
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