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Old 02-12-2010, 12:43 AM   #109
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that sucks a fat one. ive installed tons of "new" junk parts.... starters alternators...etc im enjoying your updates on yalls project
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:57 AM   #110
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I was not able to pick up the alt on the way in... My wifes fourth flight of the week to NY got canceled for tonight. So I had to run in early so I can go home at 10:00 and take her to the airport. Car will have to wait for a few hours.

In more fun news, the Yaris makes a cameo in this news story: http://www.ocregister.com/video/?vid...pId=1125901233
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:16 PM   #111
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Time to start drinking . None of the usual places have a rebuilt alt for the Yaris, and with a rebuilt going for $200 I don't want to call the dealer - and don't have time to get one from our usual Toyota channel. So I guess I will brave using a local re-builder that tells me he can get it done today.
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:46 PM   #112
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With all the cut wiring did you check to make sure there's power going to the IC on the alternator before deeming it a dud? The centre wire should have 12V with the car running. (Black with a red tracer is what I have in my '05 Echo wire diagram. Should be the same in the Yaris I hope.) You can use a cheap steel needle as a back-probe.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:42 PM   #113
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With all the cut wiring did you check to make sure there's power going to the IC on the alternator before deeming it a dud? The centre wire should have 12V with the car running. (Black with a red tracer is what I have in my '05 Echo wire diagram. Should be the same in the Yaris I hope.) You can use a cheap steel needle as a back-probe.
Everything worked fine any time we have started it in the last month.

But we just had the alternator tested, and it checks out. Might be the kill switch. No I get to start chasing wires.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:35 PM   #114
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just cuz the alternator checks good the regulator could be out in it... ive had that happen a few time in an old dsm and hondas ive worked on.. but if you have done as much harness modding as it appears wouldnt hurt to give it a real close once over.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:02 PM   #115
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So I pulled the dash cover and checked the wires on the kill switch (alt and batt both run in/out of it). They all were tight, but the batt light went off and I had 14v at the batt. I went ahead and tightened all the leads, even though none were loose. At this point hopefully the issue is gone, or it will show up at our test day and we can nail it down before the first race.

I think the kill switch may be bad internally.

Also had a chance to weigh the car. Down to 1934lbs (from 2176lbs when we got it), and we are not done yet. Goal is to hit 1850lbs without driver - still puts us over our minimum weight, but so far it is lighter than I expected.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:13 PM   #116
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glad to hear hopefully it wont be a on going gremlin.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:50 PM   #117
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More news, and a pic of the Yaris: http://www.ocregister.com/news/dog-2...ey-bonnie.html

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Old 02-13-2010, 12:10 AM   #118
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More news, and a pic of the Yaris: http://www.ocregister.com/news/dog-2...ey-bonnie.html


Looking forward to more pics of the Yaris
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:48 AM   #119
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Damn, that's light!

Nice pooch. And nice way to make the paper :)
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:51 AM   #120
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1934 is very good, I think that's the lightest one we know about.
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:38 PM   #121
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Had our test day. We ended up on the Street of Willow, our friends at the Fast Lane racing school ( www.raceschool.com ) let us slide in between student session.

First session went pretty good, did some easy laps to seat the new brake pads, and to make sure nothing was going to fall off. We were also trying to run the car out of gas, no knowing how old or what was in the tank.

Near the end of the session the car started to mis and lack power, also got a CEL. I figured we had finally run it out of gas for the most part. Pulled in to the pits and dropped in a couple gallons of 100oct unleaded.

Turning off the kill switch reset the computer and things went ok for about half a lap. Then CEL, and the car would not go over 35mph.

Checked the fuel pressure, it was a solid 40psi. Pulled all the plugs, they looked like new. Started checking wiring - this was the one good part of the day - hidden in the birds nest of wires tucked in the base of the A pillar was the OBDII port that I thought had been removed (how and why it ended up there I will never know).

We scanned and found code P0301, misfire in cylinder #1. Now we just have to figure out which if the twelve things that can cause that problem it is.

All in all we had a good day. The car seemed to handle OK, even on very used up V710s. The brakes worked good. I need to adjust the brake pedal a little to help with heel/toe - the brake pedal is a little to low. No smoke came out of the car. The oil and water are all clean. And most important, nothing fell off.

Now we have two weeks before the first natl race for the car. I sure am glad we found this problem on our test day, would have sucked to this happen in a race.
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:40 PM   #122
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solid CEL or blinking CEL?

40 psi fuel pressure seems a little low if that was under load.

working out the kinks, that's a good thing. Streets are fun in a Yaris.
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:42 PM   #123
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solid CEL or blinking CEL?

working out the kinks, that's a good thing. Streets is so fun in a Yaris.
Solid. Fuel pressure was checked at idle and at 3krpm. I tend to think the problem is fuel related. The car sat as long as two years, with who knows what in the tank, and crapped out right as I get to the bottom of the tank. Step one, pull the fuel pump.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:10 PM   #124
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solid CEL or blinking CEL?

40 psi fuel pressure seems a little low if that was under load.

working out the kinks, that's a good thing. Streets are fun in a Yaris.
Yeah I've had a blinking light before on a track day. Checked the code and found a cyl 2 misfire. But I think it was caused by too much limiter under part throttle.

I was told by one of my buddies from Toyota Canada that the flashing light indicated a lean condition and the Cat could potentially be damaged (melted).
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:17 PM   #125
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I was told by one of my buddies from Toyota Canada that the flashing light indicated a lean condition and the Cat could potentially be damaged (melted).
We don't have one.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:55 PM   #126
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We don't have one.
Then are you running a different ECU? Or have you modified the signal going to the ECU to make it think there's a cat?

Because if the cat has been taken out with a stock computer, it'll set a code every time.
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