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Old 11-13-2014, 11:54 AM   #37
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I will look at my old maps to make sure.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:10 PM   #38
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I read this forum post

Quote:
Actually, it's a common problem that FIC users have if the unit is not setup properly. If your cam/crank sensor signal & grounds are not 100% and are noisy, it will cause the FIC to pick up a bad signal at higher RPM. Your symptoms will be difficulty revving past 3500-4500rpm and it's a common issue. The easy fix is to install a 2.2K(just a baseline, you might have to go higher or lower) ohm resistor parallel to the cam and crank sensor inputs and tie them into their respective grounds with the resistors. The good test for this is to run the engine NA (just undo the intercooler piping so the turbo can't build boost), and free rev the engine. It should go up to the 6500rpm stock redline no problem with just the stock ECU connected. If you hook up the AEM and do the same, but it cuts at 3000-4500rpm range, then you have the common faulty ground. Make sure all of the settings in the tuning cells are all set to 0 while you perform this test(this ensures that the FIC is not screwing with the signals).

Read more: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...#ixzz3IyAIgzbE
Do you think that has anything to do with it? When ground these connections, do I have to do it to the ECU or can i ground them somewhere else?
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:54 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Ryze268 View Post
I read this forum post



Do you think that has anything to do with it? When ground these connections, do I have to do it to the ECU or can i ground them somewhere else?
The resistors are not a bad idea to add. As long as you tie the other end of the resistor to a good ground it doesn't matter where you do so.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:11 PM   #40
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The resistors are not a bad idea to add. As long as you tie the other end of the resistor to a good ground it doesn't matter where you do so.
Would the best ground be straight to the negative terminal of thee battery?
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:26 PM   #41
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Would the best ground be straight to the negative terminal of thee battery?
Yes, but that is not necessary. Any ground bolt or ground wire is sufficient.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:54 PM   #42
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Yes, but that is not necessary. Any ground bolt or ground wire is sufficient.
Do you have a specific way of setting up the resistor contrary to "parallel to the cam and crank sensor inputs and tie them into their respective grounds with the resistors."

A quick diagram would b helpful. I'm really disappointed that the F/IC is turning out to be such a headache.

It would feel great if we could finally get it working right
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:49 PM   #43
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http://www.scionlife.com/forums/scio...or-mod-154729/ is this it?
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:20 PM   #44
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Thanks much, I'll give it a try. I pray to God it works
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:42 PM   #45
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Yea the battery negative will be a good ground. I had that problem with noise before and the resistors fixed it after adding many resistors. U should try with your stock injectors first and see if u have the same problem. Only try to change one thing at a time so u can keep check of how it responds.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:46 PM   #46
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Yea the battery negative will be a good ground. I had that problem with noise before and the resistors fixed it after adding many resistors. U should try with your stock injectors first and see if u have the same problem. Only try to change one thing at a time so u can keep check of how it responds.
My stock injectors crapped out on my that's why I changed them. How many resistors did you have to add?
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:23 PM   #47
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I had to do that on a 5efte starlet engine so I know that it can work once it is the problem. Add resistors until you get a clean signal as different situations will require different amounts of resistors and it also depends on the amount of interference you are experiencing. I had to add about 4 resistors per signal but that was a much older car (1991)
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:54 PM   #48
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I had to do that on a 5efte starlet engine so I know that it can work once it is the problem. Add resistors until you get a clean signal as different situations will require different amounts of resistors and it also depends on the amount of interference you are experiencing. I had to add about 4 resistors per signal but that was a much older car (1991)
I'll give it a try and let you know if it works
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:23 PM   #49
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Tried the resistor mod, the car idled a lot smoother but still refused to rev past 3000rpm.

Vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtVrqai0icc

What settings would affect the RPM in the fic?

I'm just about ready to give up..
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Last edited by Ryze268; 11-14-2014 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:43 PM   #50
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Don't give up. you will definitely enjoy it in the end when it is working great. Trial and error is all part of it. all settings for fuel and ignition should be at zero but in your case with the larger injectors try setting fuel at 3k rpm a little negative. How many resistors you added?
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:06 PM   #51
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Don't give up. you will definitely enjoy it in the end when it is working great. Trial and error is all part of it. all settings for fuel and ignition should be at zero but in your case with the larger injectors try setting fuel at 3k rpm a little negative. How many resistors you added?
1 2.2k resistor per connection. Everything is zero'd

If the ecu can rev just fine with the bypass harness, shouldn't it rev just fine with the fic zero'd?

Now I'm starting to think I have a bad fic
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:08 PM   #52
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try adding a second resistor....then a third and see if it improves.
Just saying from past experiences with another vehicle I got no improvement after one resistor, nor two, nor three, it was successful after 4four resistors. Its worth a try for you too. the resistors are cheap and easy to connect.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:33 PM   #53
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I'm waiting on CTScott to reply. i believe it's wired in wrong.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:46 AM   #54
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Wiring is correct, disconnected the CAM and CRK wires same issue occurs, would flooding the engine with fuel cause it to not rev?
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