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Old 10-06-2018, 06:42 PM   #73
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
fwiw I never found that the subframe was any issue nor did I feel that loosening it would have made any difference. I also had a hoist and engine leveller to help. I found I wheels the engine into the engine bay (super careful of the lack fo space for the width of ther 2zr) and then slowly bolted each of the side engine mounts on but kept them loose. I then got the dogbone mount in and then tightened it all up. Having a jack underneath helps the get the engine in a better position (use a 2x4 under the oil pan.)

I actually did the clearancing with an air hammer after when I went to pull the trans for the lightweight flywheel. It's just that its easier to do with the engine out of the engine bay.

If others state is easier with the subframe loosened then I'd probably do it just in case. Just keep in mind it will require an alignment once it is all back in place which is one of the reasons I didn't bother with it.

Splitting the trans and engine sucks with the 2zr since everything becomes so limited with width. Anything you need to do to the trans do it while it's out of the car.

In my experience w/ Tdot performance is really friendly and shipping is very fast if a place has the part you are looking for (Tdot carries no inventory they are simply an online seller or middleman between stores and the online consumer). However the problems arise when parts are not properly labelled for the proper year of manufacture for a car. It took way too many calls to have them refund me 10% due to their mistake. My wife had to call while I was at work and every time they saids they would do it and kept forgetting. There were also delays on getting my seat bracket once it was made and when I had to order it after they gave me the wrong one the first time I was told it was ordered and then 3 days later was told I need to order it to get it started. Not a terrible experience really but more of a piss off that leaves a bad taste in your mouth when you purchase a part expecting it to be ready in time for track days you have booked. I always try to use a smaller company when the products are a similar price and quality. I have always had better experiences with smaller companies as there is usually less people that things have to go through to get done.
Yeah, I was really disappointed when I didn't get my exhaust. The site still has it advertised and obviously they don't feel the need to take it down as this happened to Adam a while back with the same item. Their system accepts the customers' money, then has to refund it. An avoidable situation.

I am glad that the job can be done without dropping the subframe, but I will see how things go.

I'm still super impressed that you did this in your driveway, and by yourself!
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:43 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by stidnam View Post
I have a brand new Scion XD engine mount sitting on my desk and I can confirm it does not move to the degree your aftermarket one does. If I really try I can slightly move the bracket attached to the top bolt, but it's pretty stiff.

Personally, I wouldn't use that mount. Send it back as defective and buy OEM.

Part number should be (But please check with your dealer)

12305-37190 - https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-part...unt-1230537190
Thanks Stidman! I'm really leaning toward just buying an new OEM mount. I'll email the seller, link them to my video and see if they will refund me.

EDIT: I did order an OEM mount. I also emailed the seller of the aftermarket one and requested an RMA.
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:54 PM   #75
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The engine has landed at home.

My daughter may be the new wrench turner in the family. She really enjoyed helping to put the engine hoist back together. I'll be borrowing an engine stand and leveler from the school early next week. In the meantime, I'll try to source the engine hooks.



A couple of my former students lending a hand. One is actually our tenant.

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Old 10-06-2018, 08:43 PM   #76
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MAF Wiring in harness

Started hacking away at the harness. My glasses mysteriously went missing so there was a lot of squinting going on. I added the MAF sensor power wire that will run to the fuse box (thanks Trevor). Not having any automotive wire on hand, I grabbed a roll of decent quality 14 ga stranded copper speaker wire. Not sure if the OEM wiring is aluminum or copper. Hopefully there won't be any dissimilar metals issues. It's a really good connection with about 1" of wire from each wire braided into each other, soldered, heat shrinked and taped. I may have shorted the power wire a bit, but I think the mini add-a-circuit wire will reach. If not, I'll splice in a bit, solder and heat shrink.

Braided and soldered



Heat shrink, tape and 90 bend



More taping



Finished connection

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Old 10-06-2018, 10:17 PM   #77
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There used to be some good options for exhaust systems by RPM, but as you all know....they canned their 2zr support.

I would personally recommend finding a oem midpipe or at least the collector, then just have the rest of the system made to meet up with whatever performance muffler you have. I went with 2.25 all the way due to the overwhelming amount of complaints from people that tried 2.5. 1 catalyst and 1 resonator is all you need to pass smog and sound restrictions

You’re engine looks really nice, must be a unit someone took care of. Things should come together quickly now!

I strongly approve of your wiring work, looks completely oem. I soldered my wholle home-made harness with heat sharing also, and with all these years, and having it apart several more times... and racing! Don’t let anyone tell you solder is “brittle”.
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Old 10-06-2018, 11:09 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
There used to be some good options for exhaust systems by RPM, but as you all know....they canned their 2zr support.

I would personally recommend finding a oem midpipe or at least the collector, then just have the rest of the system made to meet up with whatever performance muffler you have. I went with 2.25 all the way due to the overwhelming amount of complaints from people that tried 2.5. 1 catalyst and 1 resonator is all you need to pass smog and sound restrictions

You’re engine looks really nice, must be a unit someone took care of. Things should come together quickly now!

I strongly approve of your wiring work, looks completely oem. I soldered my wholle home-made harness with heat sharing also, and with all these years, and having it apart several more times... and racing! Don’t let anyone tell you solder is “brittle”.
Thanks very much, Tom. Believe me, I've tried desperately to get an OEM pipe. I contacted over 20 different places and the only pipe I could find, was from a 2010 and was $450.00 USD plus shipping. I had at least two outfits tell me that they just cut the exhaust systems off to get the engines out. I cringed! A local shop wanted to charge me over $300.00 to just attach the Corolla exhaust manifold to the stock Yaris exhaust - nothing else. Other places didn't even want to touch it unless I bought all new parts from them.

I'm kicking myself in the arse now for not buying the 2008 OEM pipe when I had the chance. I made very solid offers and they kept rejecting them and it was a "Make an Offer" listing. I figured I'd make one final one but by the time I went to, it was gone.

Do you really think that the aftermarket OEM Scion xD midpipe that I ordered will be too restrictive? I would hate to go to all this work and expense and suffer significant power/torque losses due to inadequate flow?

I was so disappointed when the Canadian outfit sold me the Magnaflow and then told me they couldn't get it.

Yes, the engine looks good. I had a heck of a time getting the dipstick out but once it come out it would go back in and out fine. I thought it was going to break off and slide down into the pan. I hope the internals are good as I'd be in a bad way if there were any major problems. I'll clean it up and antiseize various bolts as recommended by Trevor. I still have to make a decision about the location for the swap. The school shop would be awesome but I'd have to be running and gone by Sunday evening. I have a guy who will help me but I have to do it on a weekend he's available.
We are away next weekend, so maybe the following.
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Old 10-07-2018, 02:01 AM   #79
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I would think any exhaust pipe made for the 1.8 will have properly sized piping. I made the comment about pipe size in case you had to get it made.

Make sure you get the a/c evacuated before the go time. With the auto I don’t think you have to pull the trans out at all, remove the torque converter bolts behind the black cover, put a jack under the trans to hold it in place, then there should be enough room to lift the engine straight up and out.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:10 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
With the auto I don’t think you have to pull the trans out at all, remove the torque converter bolts behind the black cover, put a jack under the trans to hold it in place, then there should be enough room to lift the engine straight up and out.
Wow, this is indeed good news! I figured with what I'd read about the mounts not necessarily lining up 100% that it might be easier moving the whole engine and transmission as a mass to line it up with the mounts. But, if I remember, your mounts did line up, right? Maybe I'm mixing it up with a swap involving a manual trans.

Does this apply to dropping the 2ZR back in after the 1NZ is pulled? So, in theory, I could drop the 2ZR in, bolt up the bell housing, converter bolts and be good - other than the wiring (including the necessary speed sensor wire swaps), ATF lines etc? No need to mess with with axles or suspension components? That could prove to be a major time saver and potential frustration saver! I wonder if the extra width of the 2zr would make it difficult to mate the engine and transmission while in the engine bay. Would I be correct in assuming that if the transmission mounts are either loose or removed, and the transmission supported by a jack, that there would be enough play to tip the trans back and forth to get it bolted to the engine?

It's interesting as when I went to ask the local mechanic if he woud be available in a pinch, he asked why I would remove the trans at all. I dismissed it because I thought he might be thinking about just putting the same type of motor back in - not necessarily one with slightly different dimensions.

Sorry for all the Q's but I'm getting pumped about this!

BTW, my timing case bracket arrived. Just have to hop across the border and get it. So there's something else I can do to my engine while waiting to dive in to the swap.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-07-2018 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:30 AM   #81
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Awesome progress. In regards to the dipstick tube make sure you cover the dipstick o ring in silicone grease. For what ever reason the 2zr dipstick like to corrode at the top of the tube and seizes it in there. Ask Sam how he knows... even mine after 1 month of not pulling it out got very stuck. Cleaned it up and greased it and no issues since
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:54 AM   #82
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Awesome progress. In regards to the dipstick tube make sure you cover the dipstick o ring in silicone grease. For what ever reason the 2zr dipstick like to corrode at the top of the tube and seizes it in there. Ask Sam how he knows... even mine after 1 month of not pulling it out got very stuck. Cleaned it up and greased it and no issues since
Thanks! So, given the frequency with which the typical motorist of today checks his/her oil, it's probably a given that there are 100 000's of 2ZR-based cars driving around with frozen dipsticks. LOL! Will add some silicone grease.

As an aside, and of course it didn't apply in your swap, but would you used some loctite on the torque converter bolts when installing and torquing to spec? I can only imagine the destructive result of having one of those bolts come loose and bouncing around in there.

Completely unrelated...Looks like I'll be getting a new windshield in my '06. Yesterday, the lower passenger corner took a small rock; I think from a oncoming vehicle. The crack is already creeping diagonally toward the center of the windshield. I thought we'd been shot. It was freakin' loud.
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:29 AM   #83
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I can't say how quickly the tube seizes as my engine bay get exposed to water quicker due to my 2 vents I cut into it. How quickly it happened to mine is probably not the most realistic for others but they are known to seize as Sam also found out.

I did not use loctite on my flywheels bolts in actually used a very small amount of antizeize and torqued them to spec. I don't remember the repair manual saying to use loctite so I never did and haven't had an issue.

I'd only use it if recommended.
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Old 10-07-2018, 02:03 PM   #84
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I did not use loctite on my flywheels bolts in actually used a very small amount of antizeize and torqued them to spec. I don't remember the repair manual saying to use loctite so I never did and haven't had an issue.

I'd only use it if recommended.
Right, I haven't looked at that part of the repair manual yet. I had just watched a youtube video about how a torque converter is attached and it looked like a thread sealer on the bolts.

I took the Corolla mount off. A 12pt 14mm wrench was adequate, but just. A little tapping was required. Those bolts are in there tight! Definitely a situation for never seize. Had to remove the motor mount guide pin to get the top bolt out of the mount after it was removed from the engine. I would have installed the Scion bracket but I'm waiting to go pick it up when a couple more packages arrive.

Removal:



Removed:




New Scion Bracket Installed

Lots of anti-seize!



xD bracket installed. Just have to go find torque spec in my service manual.

Installed Parts:

A (1 X) Toyota #12315-37040 (bracket)
B (3 X) Bracket mount bolts (came off the Corolla Engine)
C (3 x) Toyota #91552-L1240 (bolts to attach engine mount - to bracket)

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Old 10-07-2018, 03:00 PM   #85
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Tom is correct about leaving the trans in the car while swapping the engine. I removed my whole trans w/ the motor because I was replacing the clutch and flywheel.

That said putting the 2zr back into the engine bay and lining up the main shaft to the engine would be a huge pita compared to easily doing it off the car.

Imho I actually think it is quicker to pull them both together, reassemble w/ the 2zr and slide them both back in together. When the front of the car is off there is a ton of room to remove the trans and engine.

Ultimately you will have to decide what works best for you but the 2zr block is a direct bolt on including the starter
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:19 PM   #86
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Tom is correct about leaving the trans in the car while swapping the engine. I removed my whole trans w/ the motor because I was replacing the clutch and flywheel.

That said putting the 2zr back into the engine bay and lining up the main shaft to the engine would be a huge pita compared to easily doing it off the car.

Imho I actually think it is quicker to pull them both together, reassemble w/ the 2zr and slide them both back in together. When the front of the car is off there is a ton of room to remove the trans and engine.

Ultimately you will have to decide what works best for you but the 2zr block is a direct bolt on including the starter
Thanks. The main reason I was liking the sound of leaving the trans in the car would be to avoid having to deal at all with the axles and suspension components. I should say that I assume that if left in, the axles and suspension would be untouched. Again, I don't have experience, so I'm just guessing. I do like the idea of having it out to mount the trans, but if I could avoid messing with axles etc, it would be a consideration. Since the rad has to come out with front end removal, then I'd still have to deal with transmission cooler lines etc anyway.

Let's say that I do take both out and put both back in together, will the axles slide into place without having to break the ball joints and pull the struts out?
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Old 10-07-2018, 04:13 PM   #87
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You don't have to touch the knuckle or suspension to remove the axles. You can get away with it by just removing the ball joint and once its separated from the knuckle you can swing the knuckle out and remove the axle. I do this all the time when working on my axles so that I don't need a realignment every time.

The yaris bj's sit in there snug so a proper tool makes it a breeze to remove them and not damage the bj. I use a tool like this https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...or/A-p8004135e
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:01 PM   #88
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Yes the 2zr will drop right in place of the 1nz, just be sure the dowel pins are observed since they can get stuck in the engine or trans. Then if your 2zr has both and one is stuck in the trans it won’t go together. The auto slides in much easier because there is no shaft to align, both components have flat surfaces.

Leave the transmission in and don’t touch any of the mounts, it’s not in the way.
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:22 PM   #89
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Very true, I forgot that that a/t has no shaft to align
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:47 PM   #90
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So...I should still take the front of the car off though? If not, is the radiator removal enough? I'm liking the sound of this more and more all the time!

Thank you guys sooo much! I'm feeling much more confident; not assured, but more confident.

The next thing that I want settled in my mind is the swapping of the speed sensor wires. Looking at wiring diagrams is one thing, but actually envisioning it in my mind with real wires and connectors will get me over this little hump. Any advice or pics would be tremendous. I'll go back and read the threads again but don't recall seeing a pic.
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