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Old 04-07-2013, 04:53 PM   #1
yariSB86
 
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I'm going boosted!

So I've finally made the call to go boosted. I'm going to install the Zage turbo kit.
Here is what I was thinking. Any and all input is greatly appreciated as this is my first turbo build.

Glowshift gauges:
-Boost/vacuum
-Oil pressure
-Wideband (afr)

Auto Gauge:
-Tachometer

Scan Gauge II
-for code reading

Zage Turbo kit, including the AEM F/IC + Boomslang harness

I've done some research to see what additional parts/misc items I may need. Its a long list, I feel confident it should suffice. With that said. Is there anything anyone would like to add/comment on? Feel free to add your .02. (if you suggest an item/misc part, I will simply quote you saying either its already on the list or thanking you for letting me know I need/should have it)

Thanks all.

-B


EDIT: References for shopping list/misc parts:
Preinstall guide
Zage install guide
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:31 PM   #2
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sounds like a good list,
one thing i would steer clear of are the glow shift gauges.
i installed them on the echo. the boost guage is not accurate unless you are at sea level
and the buttons rattle like crazy.

go all autometer, as for wideband spend the money and get a good one.
innovate (my favourite) you can calibrate and cheep replacement sensors
aem wideband is also a great option.
if doing a boost controler just get the aem trueboost and call it a day.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:37 PM   #3
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Good list. I would upgrade the oil return off the turbo.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #4
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@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

@Kou - how would I upgrade the oil return line?
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #5
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^ The best install is to run the oil return line into the block, above the oil line. There are pictures and a thread about it. You just need a couple of fittings and a line. I would still use the Zage pan provided with the plug that comes with it.

On the gauges, at the very least spend the extra money for a really good air/fuel gauge. It will become your intimate friend.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:51 PM   #6
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@Garm - Are you referring to "tapping into the block" for the oil return?
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubaru Steve View Post
go all autometer, as for wideband spend the money and get a good on
I really like having my Autometer gear...was a great investment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
It will become your intimate friend.
+1 ... you would be shocked to know what is really happening if you didn't have one that is solid and the correct installation location of the bung.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yariSB86 View Post
@Garm - Are you referring to "tapping into the block" for the oil return?
Don't get confused...it isn't actually the block. It is the upper oil pan sub assembly.

Other than that I would go with something other than the F/IC. I know that there are plenty of folks that would argue with me, but after having 2 of them in less than 2 years, having shotty telephone support (lack of knowledge by staff), and personally running into others that do autocross, 1/4 mile, speed runs, etc I won't be installing another one. If you can really swing it take the additional funds and go with an "upgraded" solution over the F/IC.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:44 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=yariSB86;693373]@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

as you gain in elevation it thinks your in vacuum, im at 4000, ft.. i need 5psi to show i hit boost. i have replaced
the gauge and even called glow shift. they said sorry, there is no way to calibrate it.

the colors, peak, and hold are cool. but in my opinion they are only for show.

i have autometers, aem, innovate, glowshift and Defi.
once you have a quality set of instruments you wont go back.

http://www.egauges.com/
these are expensive but amazing! dont need a controler Defi
Prosport is also a decent entry level gauge. they have come a long way.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Don't get confused...it isn't actually the block. It is the upper oil pan sub assembly.
That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:15 PM   #10
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This thread. I like this.

I can't speak for the quality of glowshift gauges, but like everyone else has said, splurge on a good wideband. That's by far the most important, especially if you're self-tuning. I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be.

Another thing - if you don't want to waste money on another bov, don't worry about it. I was using the Zage bov for the last two months and finally got it working consistently. Turns out there was too much preload (and you have to loosen it to a practically uncomfortable point of preload).

How will you be tuning? And who will be doing it?
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:17 PM   #11
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That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.
Yes sir. I have a spare one sitting in my garage right now that will replace the one that is currently on my installed motor.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:19 PM   #12
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I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be.
How would a digital OPG be of more benefit? I have the mechanical Autometer that goes from 0-100psi. I did have to replace the sending unit, but that was because of what happened when my first motor blew up. Other than that it has worked flawlessly.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:31 PM   #13
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^ mechanical means oil actually goes to the gauge in a line. No sending unit.

It has nothing to do with digital vs. analog display on the gauge.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:09 PM   #14
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I had a friend that had a mechanical oil gauge on his steering column. he always kept a rag under it... it always leaked. It was nasty but free.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yariSB86 View Post
@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

@Kou - how would I upgrade the oil return line?
This is what I am going to use for the oil return 10AN XRP hose end fittings and some push lock hose.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg oil drain.JPG (32.2 KB, 179 views)
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:56 PM   #16
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^ mechanical means oil actually goes to the gauge in a line. No sending unit.

It has nothing to do with digital vs. analog display on the gauge.

aaahhh....gotcha...thanks for the clarification :)
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:08 PM   #17
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That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.
Here is a photo and yes I flipped it upside down to make it easier orientation-wise...haha

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Old 04-08-2013, 05:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
This thread. I like this.

I can't speak for the quality of glowshift gauges, but like everyone else has said, splurge on a good wideband. That's by far the most important, especially if you're self-tuning. I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be.

Another thing - if you don't want to waste money on another bov, don't worry about it. I was using the Zage bov for the last two months and finally got it working consistently. Turns out there was too much preload (and you have to loosen it to a practically uncomfortable point of preload).

How will you be tuning? And who will be doing it?
I've heard bad things about the zage bov, was yours set low out of the box?

I was planning on tuning the F/IC myself and getting the actual car tuned professionally. Where I have yet to find >_<
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