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06-07-2009, 08:06 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2009 yaris 5-speed Manual Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2
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When should I start using synthetic oil??
My 2009 yaris has just passed 15,000. 95% highway and already getting 45-50 mpg. When should I change over to synthetic oil and can I increased the change period to 7,500 or even 10,000 miles. Don't want to void the warrenty, so might continue at 5,000 until I reach 36,000 which should be around christmas.
Thanks, Mike |
06-07-2009, 08:22 PM | #2 |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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The synthetic oil in the US is "fake" so just keep running your favorite "conventional" API SM oil and you're good to go. The Syntheics here are at most semi-synthetics and have marginal improvements in cold viscosity and sludge generation and cleaning. The Two Top picks in a premium oil would be: Penzoil Platinum, and, Mobil-1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 - a much better oil than regular Mobil-1 5w-30. If you want to spend 8-10 bucks a litre then you can step up to "real" synthetic from Europe which would be: Motul, Total, Fuchs, Pentosin - just be prepared to purchase online. Your oil filter choice is MORE important; ditch that cheap Thailand Toyota filter F-A-S-T and get a Purolator pure one or Mobil-1 or Bosch.
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06-17-2009, 03:58 PM | #3 | |
Banned
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 189
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Quote:
I could not DISAGREE MORE. There are MANY true fully synthetic oils sold in the USA, and made in the USA. Don't you realized that even with the "inferior" US sold synthetics, your Yaris will still last 300,000+ miles? And there is nothing wrong with the Toyota filters for the Yaris. You constantly vomit wrong information. |
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06-20-2009, 07:01 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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Quote:
from the Valvoline website: MYTH: There is not any real difference between conventional and synthetic motor oil. REALITY: There are not any real differences in the basestocks used to make synthetic and conventional oils, but there are differences in the additives and process used to make the final products. Continuing: Castrol Syntec 5W-30 is not synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is not synthetic. Royal Purple street oil is NOT synthetic. - Alternatively: Motul 300v is grpV synthetic, Total Quartz Future 9000 is Grp iv/v synthetic, Fuchs Silkoline is grp V synthetic. Redline is synthetic. Some Amsoil products are synthetic, but mainly group iv which is inferior PAO base. PAO is not a good lubricant, though its a good additisation carrier and works welll when blended with group V base stocks. Mobil1 4t racing is full synthetic and 9 bucks a quart. I'm not saying the USA sold "synthetics" are bad oils, just why pay the cost and not get the benefits of a REAL synthetic? You want a USA synthetic-beating oil for cheap, buy Rotella-T CJ4/Sm 10w-30. ABout 3 bucks a qt in gallon jugs. Too thick for a Yaris, IMO. Filters: The Toyota Denso Thailand filters have NEVER worked for me, across multiple trials and vehicles, and thats all that matters to me. I just want enthusiasts to be aware that I have encountered problems and this might help them solve their problem. The WIX #51396 have worked well and are recommended. As for vomiting incorrect info, I'll leave that to you. Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 06-20-2009 at 07:09 PM. Reason: sp |
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06-07-2009, 09:46 PM | #5 |
Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 9,873
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Amsoil is real synthetic, right?
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06-07-2009, 10:07 PM | #6 |
Banned
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i went fully synthetic after the first 3000 miles on my car =)
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06-07-2009, 11:24 PM | #7 |
XBL: Jeemee Ghost
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I think Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple are all real synthetics. I heard 20k? I dunno, that's about when I switched.
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_________________________________________________ Nitto Axle-Back--Tanabe DF210s--UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar--Penguin Garage 10mm Hub Spacers |
06-08-2009, 12:25 AM | #8 | |
Audio Junky
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Quote:
RP is like $8.5/qt at walmart. As soon as i'm out of free oil changes i'll upgrade from mobil to RP and prolly go 10k with a filter change every 3k. |
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06-08-2009, 08:33 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Amsoil XL series (probably their biggest seller?) is not group IV, it's group III
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06-08-2009, 12:01 AM | #10 |
The one with cheese on it
Drives: '10 Corolla S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 380
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36,000 miles is just for the bumper-to-bumper warranty.
60,000 miles/5years is for the powertrain warranty which includes the engine, tranny, & airbags. So, technically you won't be out of the woods until 5 years/60,000 miles. Personally, just to stay within warranty, I am using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum every 5,000 miles. Once I get brave enough, I am gonna get some of that fancy Amsoil and run it for 15,000 miles. Its my car, so what? |
06-08-2009, 08:41 AM | #11 | |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
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06-08-2009, 07:12 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2009 yaris 5-speed Manual Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2
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thanks for all the replies.
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06-08-2009, 08:58 AM | #13 |
I went synthetic right after my first oil change.
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GioBatera |
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06-08-2009, 09:38 AM | #14 |
Drives: Blazing Blue 08 liftback Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euless Texas
Posts: 241
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I changed to Amsoil at around 2500 miles. I use the racing oil as opposed to the extended drain interval oil because of the AX and TTs I'm doing. I went to 9000 miles on that change.
Amsoil compares very favorably with other synthetic oils and is priced competitively especially when the extended drain intervals are considered. Amsoil is a pure synthetic oil and is used in many racing venues and is the title sponsor for the TRAXXS Offroad Truck Series this year. I am using the Signature series oils and extended range filter in a 06 Honda Civic (wife's), my 04 FORD F-250 and use the 2 cycle racing oils in my 7 go karts (Yamaha KT 100s and Rotax 125) used for my karting school and personal racing. Motul is huge in karting by the way. It retails around here at about 1/3 more and must be mixed at a higher ratio. My KT 100s were using 1/20 Motul mix and now use a 1/30 Amsoil mix and could go as low as 1/50. I use the same 1/40 mix with Amsoil as Motul in the Rotax. There are many partial and full synthetics available, obviously I'd like people to compare and consider using Amsoil. I'm convinced Amsoil is a high quality and economical product for all my uses. Of course I'd love to see my Amsoil business (TruLube.com) do well with the Yaris folks and others, but people have there own opinions and trying to convince otherwise is, as they say, futile. Please check out my Store Front and delve into the information provided by Amsoil and decide for yourselves. |
06-08-2009, 10:49 AM | #15 | |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
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1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD 2008 Scion xD (w/ automatic) - SOLD 2008 Yaris HB - SOLD Last edited by 1stToyota; 06-08-2009 at 11:43 AM. |
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06-08-2009, 11:23 AM | #16 |
Half a Bubble Off Plumb
Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA
Posts: 1,593
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If you're going to use extended drain intervals with synthetic oils, you'd better be certain your driving is of the extended interval sort. I damaged a couple of engines back in the '70s-'80s by adopting the 25K mile change intervals Mobil 1 used to recommend. I'm of the opinion that unless you're doing exclusively extended engine-on runs, either long highway trips or the sort of constant running that taxicabs do, that frequent changes are important regardless of what oil you're using, and that if you're changing the oil frequently you have little to gain from synthetic oils. I'm not using them now and don't plan to.
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06-08-2009, 11:58 AM | #17 |
Drives: Blazing Blue 08 liftback Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euless Texas
Posts: 241
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You're right about that.
Amsoil describes the type of use that applies to the extended drain intervals. Some folks definitely need to reduce the change interval, but many others can benefit from the higher interval. We use the 100% signature series and even if we decide to do a shorter drain interval based on driving habits we can still save some dollars and I don't worry about getting a change nearly as often. There are plenty of opinions and personal preferences for sure. I am confident the facts speak for themselves and leave it to everyone to do what they think is best for their situation. I'll try to provide some links later, but now must get the car ready for the Porsche Club Time Trial coming up. 3.2 miles of track with just three cars with you each run. Hopefully my little cameras will work this time... |
06-08-2009, 01:01 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 977
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you can run synthetic at any time. the engine will still break in no matter what...there is no oil out there that will eliminate wear. it may take a little while longer, but the engine will still wear.
also, the engine takes about 2500 miles to break in if you do it right. and i've seen them break in under a thousand. you need plenty of red lights, and daily driving. mountains are good as well...anything to keep the engine rpm going up/down and demand for power going up/down as well. to determine if you need to change your oil....look at the freakin dipstick. it doesnt matter if the bottle tells you to change it at 3k or 30k....if it's dark change it and the filter. simple...reliable...and has worked for me for 15yrs. |
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