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Old 08-16-2011, 01:58 AM   #19
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Neat idea. Props
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:31 AM   #20
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^^^^^ What he said.
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
you needed the power of ZEUS to release it
i dont know why, but i laughed at that quote..

ok andrew, washers in the middle, after you tighten the bolt for the tension on the alt. take the bolt off the bracket and slide the correct amount of washers in the middle then bolt it back. Makes sense. I didnt see the washers in the first pic.

Might I add.. Could you just remove that bolt comletly after you tighten the alt. bolt? I mean its not holding anything any more securely. Throw that bolt back in your tool box and call it a "special service tool" lol.
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Old 08-16-2011, 05:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmcg View Post
Here is a picture with the washers in between to show it with less tension if you want. I still like the guys who think that prying with a pry bar or using a wrench with a tensioner has any different outcome. The only difference is:

1. With this setup, I have exactly the tension I want. Not too much, not too little.
2. With this setup, I don't have to leverage a pry bar against my aluminum block and be scared of putting a hole in the timing cover or block. Cast aluminum is easy to put a hole in.

Hmm thats a little confusing because the thing works by having a space between the two angle iron pieces.

Oh well i'll figger it out...

Yeah theres almost no place to pry without smashing something up. You gotts be REAL carefull!
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:19 PM   #23
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Bronsin, there really isn't space between the two angle iron pieces since the washers are there. The washers take up the space. And technically, once you tighten down the bolt that bolts to the alternator, the others are unnecessary as ilikerice said.

Ilikerice, yes you could just remove the other bolts if you wanted to. I like it there just so there are more things holding it in place for a smaller chance of the tensioner moving. Also, the first pictures didn't have the washers. I just posted that to see what I meant by spacing it with washers if you wanted to.
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:12 PM   #24
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:13 PM   #25
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Question ouch

so i replaced belt... squeaky... but, now i got a rumbling noise after a few hundred miles... ? ? ? hmmm...
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:06 PM   #26
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Does a mod want to run his IP? I sense a troll.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikerice View Post
I dont wanna start a problem. but most brand new belts, esp aftermarket will stretch given time. You can easily just tighten the belt without using those brackes and using a crowbar or lever of some sort to pull the alt. towards you while you tighten up your #2 bolt.
Just my 2 cents
LOL, u my friend have never heard of the OCV valve have u lol

Good Job to the OP, very nice design

Simple, Easy, and Effective

there was another thread around here with a DIY on how to install a toyota tensioner
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:30 PM   #28
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ur idea is cool, but you really need to lock those nuts down

use nylock nuts
safety wire
or
slotted nuts
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:31 PM   #29
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Genius

Just 'cause it came from the factory a certain way, doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. Besides....it isn't like it can't (easily) be undone and returned to stock.

"Genius" I say
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:55 AM   #30
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As I stated prior.... I do like the idea vs what we are stuck with. Question though....With the one piece on tight and the other on loose for tightening, doesn't the one thats loose angle forward during the tightening process? How would you get it to go back to perpendicular after the adjustment process without loosening it again?
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:18 PM   #31
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Guys, any idea how to loosen lower bolt? I have 70k on my Yaris, made several attempts, but no luck...
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:40 AM   #32
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I would take it to a shop, explain the problem, and ask them to loosen it. Ask them not to tighten it so much. I think they will understand the problem. Might cost some $$ but what can one do?
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:53 AM   #33
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Query

I also have a squealing in my 2010 yaris rs liftback. When i turn the air condition on it squeals for about 25 seconds then stops. If i driving with the a/c on and i have to stop, as I shift the gears down, the squeal returns. Even at times when drive to a spot and then put the car in reverse it squeals. The belt has been changed before, but it still kept the noise. I just want to know if the belt is tensioned, would that solve the problem.....any feedback?
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:45 PM   #34
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Where are the pics? This is very interesting. I'd love to see this adaptation. I particularly like the idea of being able to add just enough tension. I always wonder if I'm overtightening and causing unnecessary bearing wear when not having a spring type 'automatic' belt tensioner.
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:20 PM   #35
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I would like to see pics too. Not sure what the OP used to host the pics but when photobucket stopped offering 3rd party hosting lots of DIY threads became useless.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:03 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_robot View Post
I would like to see pics too. Not sure what the OP used to host the pics but when photobucket stopped offering 3rd party hosting lots of DIY threads became useless.
I hate Photobucket. Harsh words I know, but what a move on their part! A few DIY threads I did on another automotive forum became, as you say, useless.
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