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Old 09-06-2011, 01:37 PM   #19
cali yaris
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First you said:

Quote:
I didn't go out and get a count, but it's got to be at the very least between two to four dozen or so bits of dirt/dust in each panel.
Then:

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Looking at my car again, it appears that there is about one piece or less of dust in the paint per square foot.
Two to four DOZEN to ONE or less? What just happened?
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:08 PM   #20
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I've got a really simple, old digital camera. And by old, I mean I bought it seven or eight years ago. It doesn't have newfangled technology like macro shot options.
You really need to get pics up in this thread if you're starting to name the shop in a public attack.

Macro is not 'newgangled technology' as you put it. I have cameras way older than yours with macro exposure. Double check your camera for an exposure setting either on a dial or button represented by a flower. That is macro.
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:24 PM   #21
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Where again did you say the keying was done? Not sure exactly where a "panel" is located as the car is full of them, and usually, a keying type incident is done at the waist level along the key as one walks by. Did you also get your rear bumper fixed while you were at it; those deep groves?
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:27 PM   #22
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Pictures Please
x10000
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
You really need to get pics up in this thread if you're starting to name the shop in a public attack.

Macro is not 'newgangled technology' as you put it. I have cameras way older than yours with macro exposure. Double check your camera for an exposure setting either on a dial or button represented by a flower. That is macro.
If you cannot get into MACRO mode, but you has the flower button....
if yer camera has ProgramAE mode, usually go to ProgramAE mode first, then macro button will work


I agree...now you are naming a shop, show us the paint job as it sits, and show us the flaws
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:18 PM   #24
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Cali Yaris, now that the car was re-wetsanded, I can now separate out what were nibs above the clearcoat, and which particles sat between the base and the clearcoat. I'd say one visible particle per square foot is average in terms of debris that sits under the clearcoat. Some panels have less debris than others. By the way, I keep calling this stuff dust, but I'm not sure what it really is. It looks more like little brown chunks of dirt.

The thing is, I can't tell who's right, or who's full of it. I spoke with an adjuster from my insurance company on the phone, and she said that even one visible particle would be unacceptable under their standards. She said that if there was any visible debris after a respray, and I had used one of their in-network shops, she would make the shop re-do it. Yet the owner of the body shop insists that everyone I spoke with is wrong, and that the acceptable standard is approximately one visible particle per square foot. So I am really confused, which is why I posted this thread in the first place. To see if there are any paint and body experts out there.

WeeYari and Rockland Toyota, I'm sorry, my digital camera definitely doesn't have the macro feature. However, I plan on getting a new digital camera real soon. So, when this thread dies down, I plan on reviving it. I understand that it's really hard for you guys to get an idea of what I'm talking about without pictures. I don't blame you. Too bad nobody here lives in Columbus, because I'd be more than happy to show it to an expert in person.

KCALB SIRAY, by panel, I mean the driver's side front door, driver's side back door, driver's side rear quarter panel, and the liftgate were keyed. The scratches were indeed at waist level, and were down to the white primer. And yes, I did get the back bumper refinished. I also got some door dings pulled out, and a couple other things done. I left this out so as not to complicate this thread. I wanted to focus on the insurance work done, since that was the bulk of it. Really, I spent around $3,000 at this place, a mix of out of pocket expenses and insurance money. Everything turned out great except for the debris under the clearcoat. I'm trying to figure out if I should be upset or not. If some dust or debris under the clearcoat is to be absolutely expected, then I really shouldn't be complaining.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:22 PM   #25
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Some people here said that I shouldn't be naming the shop without back-up. Good point. I don't want to be sued for slander. I edited out the shop information in my post. I can re-post it once I put up pictures, should this situation not get resolved. If there is a problem, that is.

I swear to you all, I'll get a new digital camera soon. I have a Best Buy gift certificate that I need to use up!
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:19 PM   #26
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WeeYari and Rockland Toyota, I'm sorry, my digital camera definitely doesn't have the macro feature. However, I plan on getting a new digital camera real soon. So, when this thread dies down, I plan on reviving it. I understand that it's really hard for you guys to get an idea of what I'm talking about without pictures. I don't blame you. Too bad nobody here lives in Columbus, because I'd be more than happy to show it to an expert in person.
.
its NOT a problem as i was busting balls and getting post counts. in my business i see paint defects a few times a month

Besides i love when cali chimes in with his 2 cents.....
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:52 PM   #27
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its NOT a problem as i was busting balls and getting post counts. in my business i see paint defects a few times a month

Besides i love when cali chimes in with his 2 cents.....
Wait, so is some trash and other such defects in the paint to be expected, even at the best body shops? If so, how much is acceptable, and is the one-visible-piece-per-square-foot-thing typical? This is really important for me to know. As I said, I'm not an expert. I really need to know if this body shop did me wrong or not. I would hate to harbor bad feelings towards them if this is truly the best anyone can do. And if I got this fixed someplace else, I would like to know if it would wind up looking exactly the same, or worse, anyway. I'd also like to know if I should continue to use this body shop, since it's always good to have a good one on hand in case of an accident, or even just to get future door dings fixed. As mentioned before, I'm totally clueless about what defects in a new paint job is acceptable. All I know is that I can see them.

Rockland Toyota, since you know what to look for, can you describe the typical, acceptable paint defects on refinished cars that have come through your dealership? Feel free to use technical words. If I don't understand, I'll just ask you for a definition. Do such defects affect the value of the car at all?
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:44 PM   #28
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Wait, so is some trash and other such defects in the paint to be expected, even at the best body shops? If so, how much is acceptable, and is the one-visible-piece-per-square-foot-thing typical?
Best body shops ?
No and no.

You got a raw deal (and a line of BS) from someone who did not prep correctly, or even worse, painted it outdoors
(by outdoors I mean outside a paint booth). That is all there is to it. Is it acceptable to you ? it could be or it could not be. It is your car.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:34 AM   #29
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You spent 3G's for a respray...and insurance as part of that...SMH...
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:25 PM   #30
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Besides i love when cali chimes in with his 2 cents.....
I'm flattered. Here's two more cents...

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So, when this thread dies down, I plan on reviving it.
Please, no!
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:47 PM   #31
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...plastic dipsticks...
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:20 PM   #32
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Next time, take a piece of the 3K and buy yourself a 100.00 camera. ;)
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:39 PM   #33
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Cali Yaris, you have nothing to worry about, this thread is not going to be revived. Had I been able to take pictures, it's likely this this matter would have been resolved pretty quickly. I feel really stupid and embarrassed right now. I'll explain.

In the two weeks since I got my car back, I had only seen it under bright sunlight. I went out to my garage today in order to get an exact count of the dirt specks. Today, it's been cloudy and rainy for the first time in a while. Therefore, I was able to see my car under completely different lighting conditions.

Turns out that what I thought was specks of dirt was actually clumps of metallic pieces that formed little round balls. These balls slighly raised the paint above them To my untrained eye, they appeared as dust or little chunks of dirt sitting between the base and the clear. Under more muted light, I was finally able to see what they actually were. When I got picked up the car, I was told that it's impossible for a body shop to exactly replicate the way a robot at the factory sprays on metallic pieces in the paint. Therefore, imperfections are inevitable in a respray. In some spots, the metallic pieces look like black specks. But, now I can see that they also formed clumps here and there, and I had mistaken them for dirt when looking at it under very bright sunlight. No wonder the owner refused to re-do it. When he referred to one piece of dirt per square foot, he was probably referring to defects that can only been seen with a maginifying glass. I just wish the owner had spent a few minutes pointing out and explaining away all the imperfections. Looks like the whole thing was a breakdown in communication. I got angry over nothing, and I feel really silly. So, if anyone here owns a meterorite metallic Yaris and you need a respray at some point, have the body shop point out and explain the imperfections in the metallic when you get your car back. This way, you won't wind up fretting over nothing like I did.

One thing I'm confused about, though. The metallic chunks, the ones I thought were dirt, often appear far away from the site of the original scratch. I thought that new color/basecoat was only sprayed at the site of the damage, and then the whole panel is re-cleared. Or is the color coat sprayed on the entire panel? Could someone explain, in layman's terms, how key scratches are fixed?
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