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03-17-2013, 09:40 AM | #1 |
Beware of the "simple" brake job tasks
Ok...so yesterday I had a friend over to work on the Yaris brakes to simply replace the brake lines with stainless steels and brake fluid with Motul 5.1 (thanks for both from Micro Image).
This is the first in a 2 step brake job process where later I will replace the rotors, pads, shoes and drums, but I didn't want to have to bleed the brakes when doing that so that is now taken care of. We began with the lines first and the passenger side front wheel. We begin to loosen the screw on the flexible line where the hard line from the master cylinder meets the flexible line. Braking these loose, by the way, wasn't a problem for any of these on any wheels. Okay, so on this particular wheel, the screw broke loose just fine, then I begin to back it out and I begin to meet resistance, then it would loosen, then resistance and so on for about the whole time backing the screw out from the flexible hose. We get that screw just about all the way out of the flexible hose where the screw would wiggle easily while still attached to the flexible hose end, but it wouldn't release. Usually when loosening these screws from the flexible hose, they break loose, then are hand loosened easily...not this one. We spent an hour trying to get that screw out and we determined that something was stripped either on the screw threads where we couldn't see it, or in the flexible hose end. We tried to put the screw back in to see if it would rethread by chance...no chance, it would just spin and spin, so we then were in the position that the hard line had to be changed. We called around to Toyota dealers and none had the pre-bent line in stock...it is special order of course (silly us right?). I then thought of my trustworthy mechanic that is open on Saturdays till 7pm (what a blessing from the Lord) and I called him. He said if I could buy a hard line from Autozone which is straight, they could bend it because you have to use a pipebender to not end up crimping the line. We had to also buy new fittings for each end because the fitting that came on the line from Autozone were standard, so we bought metric 10mm 1.0s and the mechanic put those on. Total parts cost = $10; labor from Mechanic = $75. Toyota said their part was $35 and overnighting it would be outrageous. You have to realize that we could not afford to have this car not available during the week and most places are closed Sundays...the ones you need for stuff like this anyways. Well, while we were waiting for the Mechanic to finish with bending the line, we went back home and finished the other lines which went on without one single problem. We were so thankful. We got the line back from the mechanic and it fit just fine and we were very careful to get it back fitted without cross threading...I will tell you we spent extra time making sure everything went in without messing up threads...meaning we made sure we could put these in hand tight a few turns. Well, we then bled the brakes and everything and it works just right now. I will say when you put a new screw on, you have to keep an eye on the seepage of fluid for the next few times you drive the car and continue to tighten 1/4 turns till it doesn't seep anymore because those new threads have to create some sort of seal where the screws from the stock setup will just go right in and seal quickly. We learned a great deal in this process and really enjoyed it, when looking back anyways. No one split their hand open on anything. We are so thankful to the Lord God helping us through yesterday as He walked us through each step. I had such a good friend with me yesterday as we thought this would be a 3 hour process which became more like 12 hours. Perhaps this will aid others in what to be aware of and ideas of what you can do when you run into problems. I know a lot of you are old gear-heads and this stuff isn't a big deal, but my life doesn't revolve around working on my car and I have to schedule these days carefully with all the other things in life that really matter a lot. Pat Last edited by Yarflana; 03-17-2013 at 09:40 AM. Reason: error in title |
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03-17-2013, 09:52 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Uh thats all great but the Yaris takes DOT 4 maybe DOT 3 brake fluid!
I dont remember what 5.1 is but I THINK its toally different from 3 or 4 and isnt supposed to be mixed with them OR the rubber seals. Ignor this if you have a 2013 take takes 5.1 (if a 2013 does) Also...maybe 5.1 will be OK in spite of the above? Anyone want to chime in on this? Just trying to keep you safe my friend!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
03-17-2013, 11:11 AM | #3 |
I don't think Garm and Jeff would have sold it (the 5.1) to me if they thought it would be detrimental to the system.
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03-17-2013, 01:03 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 08Yaris2D, 88LandCruiser. Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Alameda,Ca.
Posts: 476
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I think your thinking of DOT5 Silicon base. DOT 5.1 is a higher boiling point(about 60*f). I've found it go's bad in a shorter time(about 1 year)then 3 or 4.
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03-17-2013, 03:11 PM | #5 | |
Drives: Yaris 1.33 litre 2011 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wigan
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Regards Geoff Peace. |
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03-17-2013, 04:49 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Ah thanks for enlightening me!
Never mind!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
03-17-2013, 05:11 PM | #7 |
good to know for me as well.
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03-18-2013, 02:26 PM | #8 |
just a followup, if you ever change a hard line and use new screws on each end, you will have to keep going back and checking each day for seepage because until those screws seat well, you will have seepage. The original screws on all the other lines tightened up and never seeped a drop.
I just keep going back with a wrench on the new screws and tightening another 1/8 to 1/4 turn...you absolutely do not want to over-tighten. |
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