Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-29-2009, 12:33 PM   #19
1stToyota
 
1stToyota's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
getting them HOT does not damage them.


it's uneven cooling that warps rotors.
No. Heat cracks on pads, brake fade, and discoloring on the rotors is a "HOT" problem, not an uneven cooling issue, of course.
__________________


1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD
2008 Scion xD
(w/ automatic) - SOLD
2008 Yaris HB - SOLD
1stToyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 12:35 PM   #20
Tamago
Start another Oil Thread!
 
Tamago's Avatar
 
Drives: ZZW30
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: South FL
Posts: 4,890
Send a message via AIM to Tamago Send a message via Yahoo to Tamago
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stToyota View Post
No. Heat cracks on pads, brake fade, and discoloring on the rotors is a "HOT" problem, not an uneven cooling issue, of course.
ok smartass, i should have said "heat is not what warps rotors"
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnamerxx
I hate people like you (xbgod) because your the reason I don't come to this board. You spout nonsense and lies and people who don't know any better hold you in high regards because they can't tell the wheat from the chaff.
you nailed it sir.
Tamago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 12:42 PM   #21
1stToyota
 
1stToyota's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
ok smartass, i should have said "heat is not what warps rotors"
Okay, smart man that stated that 20wt is thicker than 30wt oil, **rust** is not what caused the OP excessive runout, heat must have warped the rotors...that's why there are machine minimum and discard specs, because less material = more heat, NOT more rust stains...big clue: if "HOT" was a good thing there wouldn't be vented rotors and drums.
__________________


1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD
2008 Scion xD
(w/ automatic) - SOLD
2008 Yaris HB - SOLD
1stToyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 12:45 PM   #22
1stToyota
 
1stToyota's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisSedan View Post
Well rotor warpage is due to driver usually. Its considered a normal wear and tear item. Such as if you decided to drive down a large mountain and never use your transmission to slow your speed but rode the brakes all the way down. And severely warping your rotors. Its not their fault. Its the drivers. Theres many possibilitys.
__________________


1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD
2008 Scion xD
(w/ automatic) - SOLD
2008 Yaris HB - SOLD
1stToyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 12:47 PM   #23
Tamago
Start another Oil Thread!
 
Tamago's Avatar
 
Drives: ZZW30
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: South FL
Posts: 4,890
Send a message via AIM to Tamago Send a message via Yahoo to Tamago
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stToyota View Post
Okay, smart man that stated that 20wt is thicker than 30wt oil, **rust** is not what caused the OP excessive runout, heat must have warped the rotors...that's why there are machine minimum and discard specs, because less material = more heat, NOT more rust stains...big clue: if "HOT" was a good thing there wouldn't be vented rotors and drums.
i never said a single word about rust in this thread.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnamerxx
I hate people like you (xbgod) because your the reason I don't come to this board. You spout nonsense and lies and people who don't know any better hold you in high regards because they can't tell the wheat from the chaff.
you nailed it sir.
Tamago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 01:13 PM   #24
1stToyota
 
1stToyota's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
i never said a single word about rust in this thread.
That's what this thread has been about...assumptions/conclusions that rust overtook the rotor on the dealer's lot within the first 10 miles of life, and that's why the steering wheel shakes while applying the brakes.

Besides, not everybody has the same concept of how hot "HOT" should be, so why risk damage to the rotors and pads, and possible brake fade when the dealer took care of it for free by fixing the runout problem...
__________________


1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD
2008 Scion xD
(w/ automatic) - SOLD
2008 Yaris HB - SOLD
1stToyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 01:14 PM   #25
Tamago
Start another Oil Thread!
 
Tamago's Avatar
 
Drives: ZZW30
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: South FL
Posts: 4,890
Send a message via AIM to Tamago Send a message via Yahoo to Tamago
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stToyota View Post
That's what this thread has been about...assumptions/conclusions that rust overtook the rotor on the dealer's lot within the first 10 miles of life, and that's why the steering wheel shakes while applying the brakes.

Besides, not everybody has the same concept of how hot "HOT" should be, so why risk damage to the rotors and pads, and possible brake fade when the dealer took care of it for free by fixing the runout problem...
apparently not everyone has the same concept on how dead a horse should be before the beating stops either
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnamerxx
I hate people like you (xbgod) because your the reason I don't come to this board. You spout nonsense and lies and people who don't know any better hold you in high regards because they can't tell the wheat from the chaff.
you nailed it sir.
Tamago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 01:37 PM   #26
1stToyota
 
1stToyota's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
apparently not everyone has the same concept on how dead a horse should be before the beating stops either
--apparently not everyone has the same concept on how dead a horse should be before the beating stops either

--getting them HOT does not damage them.

--ok smartass, i should have said "heat is not what warps rotors”

--i never said a single word about rust in this thread
.



__________________


1997 Lincoln Town Car - SOLD
2008 Scion xD
(w/ automatic) - SOLD
2008 Yaris HB - SOLD
1stToyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY (sorta) - RunStop Rear disc brake conversion eTiMaGo DIY / Maintenance / Service 17 07-02-2019 08:24 AM
DIY Rear Drum Brake Adjustment/Parking Brake W/ PICS Inside YarisSedan DIY / Maintenance / Service 73 03-11-2017 06:05 PM
Dealer: Disabling the seat belt chime is now illegal? schleppy Cosmetic Modifications (Exterior/Interior) 13 04-18-2009 04:43 PM
DIY For radios that require attaching a wire to parking brake Slick DIY / Maintenance / Service 0 04-16-2009 08:14 PM
BIG(GER)TM BRAKE KIT Vanderkitten Performance Modifications 23 01-04-2009 07:16 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:14 AM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.