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Old 02-28-2010, 08:54 PM   #19
Crashmaster
 
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
I wouldn't think it would. This system is purely responsible for keeping the fumes from escaping into the air. The pump is just a diagnostic tool that the car uses to make sure that the system is airtight. Theoretically yours is still airtight, but the testing mechanism has failed.

Looking at the TSB, there is a replacement Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Cover that is supposed to seal better. You may want to also see if you can grab that from on 08, or if you can talk you dealer into giving it to you. If you want a copy of the TSB, it is posted in a stickied thread in the DIY section of the forum.


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Awesome!! Thanks for all the help. I'll talk to the dealer to see what they will do. If no go, I'll just keep looking in the junk yards. I love going there just because.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:53 PM   #20
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I also just ran into this problem pretty recently. At first I thought it was my gas cap, but after refitting it ten times my CEL is still on. Anyway I found the TSB too and was wondering if I just change the Pipe holders that it mentions, will this make the CEL go away, or will I have to change all the part numbers in the TSB (ie. the 800 dollar Vapor canister). I sure hope not, seeing as the pipe holders are less than 20 bucks. Also someone mentioned the solenoid that's near the vapor canister sometimes sticks, and maybe I can just take that out and try to free it up?? Well we'll see and any input would be nice...seeing as I live in New York and they have damned inspections :(
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by nickhjort View Post
I also just ran into this problem pretty recently. At first I thought it was my gas cap, but after refitting it ten times my CEL is still on. Anyway I found the TSB too and was wondering if I just change the Pipe holders that it mentions, will this make the CEL go away, or will I have to change all the part numbers in the TSB (ie. the 800 dollar Vapor canister). I sure hope not, seeing as the pipe holders are less than 20 bucks. Also someone mentioned the solenoid that's near the vapor canister sometimes sticks, and maybe I can just take that out and try to free it up?? Well we'll see and any input would be nice...seeing as I live in New York and they have damned inspections :(
The collar parts prevent water from getting in, but if you are getting the codes, then there is already an issue, so just replacing the collar parts won't fix it. If you look at the "emission control" section of the service manual, it explains how to test each component of the vapor recovery system.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:48 PM   #22
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I was reading up on some of these forums. i bought my wife a 2008 yaris brand new. Have not had any problems until i got the emissions notice. Literally after i got the notice here check engine light went on......of course. I have been reading all of these symptoms, ALL of which i have, all the codes, etc. BUT this car is a 2008!! which is supposed to be the "updated" version of the filler neck etc....Now what do I do??? Obviously they didnt fix much!!
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:08 AM   #23
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Solved: 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419

Hello,

I've got a Yaris 2007. I had the check engines codes 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419.

I solved the problem:

1) Replaced the charcoal canister; got one from the scrap yard (135$). The dealer would ask 800$ for a brand new.

2) The check engine light (CEL) went off by itself, and never came back.

The charcoal canisters are compatible with Yaris 2006-2011.

I did not apply any other repair procedure.

Good luck guys!

Pat
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:16 PM   #24
Golddeenoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat80 View Post
Hello,

I've got a Yaris 2007. I had the check engines codes 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419.

I solved the problem:

1) Replaced the charcoal canister; got one from the scrap yard (135$). The dealer would ask 800$ for a brand new.

2) The check engine light (CEL) went off by itself, and never came back.

The charcoal canisters are compatible with Yaris 2006-2011.

I did not apply any other repair procedure.

Good luck guys!

Pat
the irony is that you can save the canister by not over filling the tank every time you fill up. 98% of the time, that is why it goes bad, it gets flooded with liquid fuel instead of just getting vapors.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:48 AM   #25
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My 2007 yaris engine light was on.. Turns out I needed a new vapor canister. Dealer wanted $1200 installed.. I got mine from the wreckers for $100.. Gave it my mechanic and he installed it for $40.. He reset the codes and I drove the car for a day for the new part to register.. Went and passed the emmiisions.. Don't buy new.. Get from wreckers
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:18 AM   #26
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just a reminder

I see this all the time, where at the gas pump, people are topping off their tank. From what I understand, topping off will kill your vapor canister. Stop at first click off. Even some gas stations have warnings about this.
But you still see click click click click. oh well.
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