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Old 10-17-2015, 11:25 PM   #1
flighttekchris
 
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Charcoal Canister

I have a 2008 Yaris with about 130k miles the car runs great but the check engine light is on. I had the code checked and was hold "gas cap" I took it to the dealer he said its a Charcoal Canister Assemble and it will cost $1000 to fix, here the question is there a way to clean it repair the canister to fix the problem without paying the grand?
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:00 AM   #2
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If it is really the evap canister, your best bet is to get a replacement used.

Even rockauto sells for 700+

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Old 10-18-2015, 11:38 AM   #3
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What is the engine code? My Echo just threw 3 evap codes (can't remember them off hand) but the first thing i'd check is the egr valve in the rear of the car near the gas tank. In many cases the valve is shot which leads to leaking fumes and the codes to be tripped.

Do you fill your tank until the pump auto shuts off, or do you go past that? Over filling is a known cause of ruining charcoal canisters, and it ruined my old Hyundai Accents canister.

I wouldn't jump to the charcoal canister right away, there are other things to rule out before a pricey part like that
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flighttekchris View Post
I have a 2008 Yaris with about 130k miles the car runs great but the check engine light is on. I had the code checked and was hold "gas cap" I took it to the dealer he said its a Charcoal Canister Assemble and it will cost $1000 to fix, here the question is there a way to clean it repair the canister to fix the problem without paying the grand?

first get a gas cap erase code and drive if problem repeats than have a scan done with a live test , takes about 15 min or less to run with techstream also u can see if the canister switch is sticking when one does test..etc
They can should give u a print out of the results.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:50 AM   #5
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Just curious if you topped off you tank or quit at first click when you gas. Topping off can cause your canister to fail. On some gas pumps, it has a warning sticker NOT to top off.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:33 AM   #6
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Yes I do top off did not know it would damage anything. But with the pumps here in town it's hard to tell when it really full as it kicks off if you try to fill it at any speed it can take several minutes to fill the tank. I did get the code checked and it does say gas cap. If possible how do you clear the code from the computer?
Thanks for the help
Chris
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:52 AM   #7
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I got a P0456 in my 2009, and built a smoker out of a paint can to troubleshoot. Are there any evap diagrams that help trace these issues out?
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by flighttekchris View Post
Yes I do top off did not know it would damage anything. But with the pumps here in town it's hard to tell when it really full as it kicks off if you try to fill it at any speed it can take several minutes to fill the tank. I did get the code checked and it does say gas cap. If possible how do you clear the code from the computer?
Thanks for the help
Chris
You can disconnect the battery for a minute to clear the codes.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:42 PM   #9
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I got a P0456 in my 2009, and built a smoker out of a paint can to troubleshoot. Are there any evap diagrams that help trace these issues out?
Yaris - Evap.jpg
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:53 PM   #10
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Have this issue. Mine is also coupled with the fact I cannot pump gas quickly into the tank. I keep the cap loose for fear of not getting air into the tank to replace fuel. Bought a used canister for a hundred bucks on ebay. Got me through inspection then light came back on. Last year I cleared the code and got it through inspection before it came back. Coming up again in 2016 so will see what I can do. No good answer for you. My car currently has 312,000 miles on it.
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Old 11-02-2015, 02:01 PM   #11
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Have this issue. Mine is also coupled with the fact I cannot pump gas quickly into the tank. I keep the cap loose for fear of not getting air into the tank to replace fuel. Bought a used canister for a hundred bucks on ebay. Got me through inspection then light came back on. Last year I cleared the code and got it through inspection before it came back. Coming up again in 2016 so will see what I can do. No good answer for you. My car currently has 312,000 miles on it.
Do you commonly over pump your fuel tank or (top if off)? For the problem to come back again that's what I'm suspect about
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:21 PM   #12
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Actually I rarely ever do the top of thing. I laugh at people who have to keep pushing more fuel in just to get to some amount. Even after I put the used charcoal canister on I still could not fill the tank up fast. This and the code did not come back for a few months tells me the canister was good but I have something else going on. The canister is a Toyota defect which affects other models and has been for awhile. Do some research and you will see. They have a new filler neck design that supposedly fixing it if you want to pay the dealer 250 bucks to fix Toyota's defect..pretty arrogant on their part. They need to recall the thing. The Yaris is a great car, I have put mine through hell and keeps on going. The only thing Toyota needs to do is get better at their emissions and safety systems. I will buy another Yaris though, but mine may out live me!
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:27 PM   #13
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Here something for the tech guys out there. I have a friend at work with a 1999 RAV4. Cant get through inspection and it appears his canister is bad with the codes it is pulling. A mechanic told him to disconnect all the hoses from the evap canister and leave them open. Clear the code, drive it a bit and get it inspected. The code will not come back with the hoses off and open. Hook everything back up after inspection. Could that really work?
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:59 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by RutherfordmanX View Post
Here something for the tech guys out there. I have a friend at work with a 1999 RAV4. Cant get through inspection and it appears his canister is bad with the codes it is pulling. A mechanic told him to disconnect all the hoses from the evap canister and leave them open. Clear the code, drive it a bit and get it inspected. The code will not come back with the hoses off and open. Hook everything back up after inspection. Could that really work?
No. One of the key parts of the test is the readiness monitor. That test is done after the vehicle is run and then powered off for 6+ hours. When you clear the codes you clear the readiness monitors as well. With the hoses off, when it tries to run the monitor test it will fail (leaving the monitor as "not ready") and also logging another code.
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:31 PM   #15
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Yep it sounded too easy. Thanks. I use to own a 1975 Toyota Landcruiser which I jacked up and put 38" mud tires on. It had a factory PTO winch and would go about anywhere you had the nerve to take it. I had a leaky fuel tank and had to get it inspected during my search for a used tank. I was running off of a two gallon can in the back with the fuel line dropped in it (yea I was young and crazy). I forgot the guy was going to remove my gas cap to check and make sure it was vented. When he did this he looked down the filler neck and could see the ground. The look on his face was priceless. He told me to get the thing out of there and come back when I had a real gas tank!
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:17 PM   #16
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it took a long time but i fixed it!!! i installed a hose to bypass the canister and the light went out, a $2 is way better then $1000.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:38 AM   #17
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it took a long time but i fixed it!!! i installed a hose to bypass the canister and the light went out, a $2 is way better then $1000.
Picture? Hose where?
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