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Old 08-20-2009, 12:43 PM   #19
RedRide
 
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This is why evey car should haver a water temp gauge.

If I eventually get a "scangauge", water temp will definately be one of the things monitored
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:54 PM   #20
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Most cars I've driven have had a temp gauge, which was analog, unnumbered and imprecise, but gave an idea if it was running cooler or hotter than usual. Not the Yaris, and I miss it.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:08 PM   #21
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Brian I hate to hijack your thread but what is that on the lip of your hood?

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Old 08-20-2009, 02:25 PM   #22
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^looks like a bug deflector
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:54 PM   #23
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I'm an idiot and didn't read the entire thread....


at any rate did you DIY or is there a store/website?
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:28 PM   #24
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Brian I hate to hijack your thread but what is that on the lip of your hood?
It's a magnetic bra. I got tired of all the rock chips. Now it only chips above the bra.



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Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
I'm an idiot and didn't read the entire thread....


at any rate did you DIY or is there a store/website?
I've done 2 versions, both DIY. One used foam pipe insulation and the other employed large foil wrap insulation.
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:38 PM   #25
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Yaris Hilton you're absolutely right. This guy is full of it. It's the cooler intake air temperature and different fuel additives that make the car use more gas in the winter and has very little to do with the amount of time spent in "cool" mode because the water temperatures are low. Also, there are *very* few people who have actually looked at the fuel maps for anything on toyota engines and this guy is not one of them. I'm looking at how honda does their water temp versus air temp compensation for cold weather and I can tell you that getting the water temperature up to operating range quickly has very small gains for reducing the fuel used.
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:53 PM   #26
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Lower air temp = more dense air = more air = more fuel = more power = less throttle required to maintain speed = less throttle input = less fuel used = stasis. Most of the extra fuel used in winter is due to extended warmup times and higher rolling resistance due to cold tires and cold wheel grease and trans fluid. Blocking the grill can help highway aerodynamics and reduce heat loss through the engine block, which is not insubstantial. Engines are very inefficient, less than 30% of the fuel energy goes to moving the car, the rest is waste heat.
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Old 01-02-2010, 04:15 PM   #27
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Engines are very inefficient, less than 30% of the fuel energy goes to moving the car, the rest is waste heat.
Which is why conserving heat is not a big problem.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:15 PM   #28
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Oh, I still give him some props for at least trying. Let the green mentality spread - or was that "soylent green" .... Yikes!
- Since I drive 80 on the highway - maybe I should look into blocking the grille - nascar style. Nascar and yaris in the same sentence dont sound just right ....
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:04 PM   #29
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My Yaris saves my wallet, not the planet. If the green fraudsters Strong, Gore, Hansen, et al. were all found hanging from lamp posts somewhere it wouldn't bother me a whole lot.

That said, the passive components of the Yaris cooling system are adequate for desert operation. They are also massive overkill for cold climate operation. If I don't block the upper and lower grilles I can't get the coolant up to thermostat temperature (~184F) in a 23 mile commute. The heater isn't very pleasing under those conditions either. Much worse from an efficiency standpoint is that the transaxle remains cold and rolling resistance stays very high. If you don't virtually stop all airflow through the engine compartment the transaxle will take hours to get up to its design temperature.

Grille blocks may not be helpful in a Tennessee winter, but they certainly are in a Minnesota winter. It lets me run a 200F coolant temperature which provides me comfort and about a 4 MPG boost. All ScanGauge verified of course.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:51 PM   #30
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I wish the cars came with no front grille at all - would be more aerodynamic and help in the Wisconsin winters...
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:57 AM   #31
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I wish the cars came with no front grille at all - would be more aerodynamic and help in the Wisconsin winters...
or a louvered grille like the heater vent, with a little push it's open, with a little push its closed...
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
My Yaris saves my wallet, not the planet. If the green fraudsters Strong, Gore, Hansen, et al. were all found hanging from lamp posts somewhere it wouldn't bother me a whole lot.

That said, the passive components of the Yaris cooling system are adequate for desert operation. They are also massive overkill for cold climate operation. If I don't block the upper and lower grilles I can't get the coolant up to thermostat temperature (~184F) in a 23 mile commute. The heater isn't very pleasing under those conditions either. Much worse from an efficiency standpoint is that the transaxle remains cold and rolling resistance stays very high. If you don't virtually stop all airflow through the engine compartment the transaxle will take hours to get up to its design temperature.

Grille blocks may not be helpful in a Tennessee winter, but they certainly are in a Minnesota winter. It lets me run a 200F coolant temperature which provides me comfort and about a 4 MPG boost. All ScanGauge verified of course.
The mech engineering side of me agrees with you 100%, and the car nut side of me also agrees 100% If you have high inefficiency due to heat loss, then the MORE you can do as an abatement, the better. I would bet a yaris wouldnt even need a rad in the winter. just run a 500cmL Aluminum pipe form the rad inlet to outlet with a T for overflow and cap. Put the rad in the garage for the winter
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:28 PM   #33
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Which is why conserving heat is not a big problem.
Your argument, Mr. Hilton, is illogical. I fear you may have succumed to the same impotency as some tragic greek hero with his hair shorn by a femme fatale ... I told you not to let her strain the martini through the g-string - Olive! Then along comes Engelbert and he falls for that same strange woman and her wicked ways - Delilah!

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Old 01-07-2010, 05:08 AM   #34
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okay...well i cant understand y most posts and topics on here do turn into a bitch fight.....but i'm gonna join in. lol.

i agree with everyone...kinda.... for the most part, an engine will heep itself warm enough....but thats for the most part, i have neen in other cars that if the temp in below -15*C and u are trying to do 100km/h you will watch the temp guage drop, but at idle it will be okayish. the grill block is a great idea and will help quite a bit to keep the engine at running temps. i do find a huge loss in fuel efficiency in winter but that might be because i spend more time heating it up and i rev a little higher also. but getting stuck or sliding (or parking lot drifting :)) really hurts too.

it was said colder temps dencer air=more fuel needed yes.... but unless u use a RAMair system, the stock intake (2010 yaris) is in the motor area.... if the grill is blocked, the engine is warm and the snow and ice is melting off ure hood, it is also getting warm if not hot air.....

problems with grill blocks, if its not cold enough for it and/or if u block too much of the grill your car could overheat....this is much worse then losing 5MPG in my opinion......


just to moderate a bit..... if u dont feel it is needed or even practical to even think of using this, thank u, that is your opinion. it does have its pro;s and cons but is this really what this fourm has become..... if someone has an idea u don't personally like u attack it. its all about constructive ideas and yes, critics are a must but really, its become about personal attacks
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:18 AM   #35
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Can we get a testament to the increase in MPG after fitting the grill with this?
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:35 AM   #36
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just don't block things off and you'll be just fine... if you want to block off airflow going through the radiator thats fine but when it cracks due to heat stress you're on your own.
engine is going to maintain its heat very well due to heat soak in the metal but also the fluids are going to help hold in the heat. heat rise off the exhaust manifold keeps things a tad warmer under the hood also. I would ONLY do the radiator dam if my "engine is cold" light keeps coming on while I'm actively driving down the road...... THEN I would be worried, because thats the main indicator that the motor is not running in closed loop mode.
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