HELP QUICK PLEASE - ABS LIGHT

[naossoan]

Hello,

I am moving provinces in Canada so in order to register my vehicle in the new province I need an out of province safety inspection.

I called one of the local shops and asked them if the code I have right now for my ABS being inactive would cause a fail in the inspection and he said yes, it would.

I am confident I would be able to do the work myself, but my building doesn't allow me to do vehicle maintenance on building property.

Is there a way for me to deactivate this code somehow in order to pass a safety inspection?


I will fix it eventually but I don't have a lot of time to do this work myself as I am starting a new job, as I need to have my vehicle registered in the new province within 30 days of moving there.

What is the likely culprit? Loose wires, or an actual ABS sensor (which I Would need to remove the rear drum brakes to access).

Thanks

Edit: so I was able to get my hands on a scanner. the code I'm getting is C0210 Rear Speed Sensor RH Circuit

It says
C0210 ISO/SAE Reserved
Top Fix : replace wheel bearing w/C0215

Frequent Fix
Repaired Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Wiring w/C0215
Repaired WSS w/C0215
Replaced WSS Wiring w/C0215

So is the wheel speed sensor integrated into the wheel bearing, or what??

Thanks

[WeeYari]

There is no way to deactivate code in order to fake out inspection.

Yes, the sensor is incorporated into the hub/bearing. You can attempt to clean possible corrosion on the wiring harness to hub connector. Some people have had success doing this with results that range from short term to long term. If successful, it should last long enough to get through safety.
The ABS fault has typically been attributed to the connector, not the hub/bearing.

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=61655

[naossoan]

I was able to take the connector off and cleaned it all out with brake clean and put it back together, used the scanner to clear the code but the light is still on.

I didn't use any of that grease stuff but I guess tomorrow I will take it apart again and try to clean it a bit better and use some of that grease, idk.

I have to replace the front brake pads cause the inside ones are really worn, where the outside ones still have a lot of life on them, so I guess the pads aren't applying equal pressure on the brake rotors....another thing I have to investigate I guess!

I also have to replace the windshield because it has a large crack in it and the shop said they would not pass it with a large crack in the windshield.

[naossoan]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

There is no way to deactivate code in order to fake out inspection.

Yes, the sensor is incorporated into the hub/bearing. You can attempt to clean possible corrosion on the wiring harness to hub connector. Some people have had success doing this with results that range from short term to long term. If successful, it should last long enough to get through safety.
The ABS fault has typically been attributed to the connector, not the hub/bearing.

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=61655

Can I not somehow completely disable the ABS system and clear the codes so the car's main computer doesn't even know it has ABS so it doesn't throw a code and light at me?

[WeeYari]

Nope. Life just ain't that easy.

[IndestructibleYaris]

Remove ABS bulb if legal to do so, and rewire the brake warning to only come on with the handbrake. This is legal in the untied states and would be the same as if your car came without the options at the dealership. They inspect me with the bad wheel speed signal and the lights on, but the permanent solution that would feel good for me is what was mentioned prior.

[naossoan]

I ended up buying a replacement hub from Rock Auto for around $75+shipping and did the work myself.

The rest drum and wheel hub were VERY seized and required very heavy whacks on the drum to free it.

Then I used a bolt technique I find on YouTube to free the hub from its attachment point.

Which is to put a bolt through the hole in the hub, with a nut on the inside. Find a flat enough spot to sit the end of the bolt on and continue to tighten the bolt down until it "cracks" then do it on the other side too free it.

It took me several hours to do this job because I didn't have proper tools and had to go to the store for some bolts and a wrench, but I got it done.

I also disconnected the battery afterward in case it would need some kind of system reset in order to detect the new sensor and reset the code.

When I drove home from my friend's where I was doing the work, the brake and abs lights in the dash turned off. So it looks like it worked!

[zimmer]

Great to hear you cleared the code! Well done

[Calrenman]

Thanks for documenting the problem and the solution. I am glad it worked out for you.