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Old 10-19-2018, 10:08 PM   #145
ArmstrongRacing
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Plugs look ok, they’re iridium so they last a long time. I put new plugs in mine when I got it because who knows if the maintenance was done of even if the mileage was recorded correctly.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:06 PM   #146
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Plugs look ok, they’re iridium so they last a long time. I put new plugs in mine when I got it because who knows if the maintenance was done of even if the mileage was recorded correctly.
Thanks Tom. I'm glad they don't suggest some underlying mechanical issue. It occured to me - after I replaced all the plugs and coils - that I should have put my breaker bar on the crank pulley given it a turn or two. Oh well, haha.

I'm about to order some more Rock Auto stuff including plugs, oil filters, a dessicant bag for the A/C. There's a guy locally selling an oil filter wrench for the cartridge style filter assembly and I can pick that up for $8.00 CAD.
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:39 AM   #147
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The OEM plugs are good for 160k km iirc. Mine looked similar to yours and I kept them in.

I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug hole seals as those tend to leak down the road. It actually looks like that may be happening in your one spark plug hole of your darker plug. Those plugs look pretty good though

That said, the spark plug hole seals are such a tight tolerance they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the cover and install is ever harder. Not sure how a toyota tech would do it but it almost seems as if you need a special press for them. They are such a tight fit
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:50 AM   #148
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The OEM plugs are good for 160k km iirc. Mine looked similar to yours and I kept them in.

I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug hole seals as those tend to leak down the road. It actually looks like that may be happening in your one spark plug hole of your darker plug. Those plugs look pretty good though

That said, the spark plug hole seals are such a tight tolerance they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the cover and install is ever harder. Not sure how a toyota tech would do it but it almost seems as if you need a special press for them. They are such a tight fit
Thanks Trevor. I believe that the darker plug was from the far left cylinder when standing at the exhaust manifold side of the engine. This plug seemed a bit looser than the others. It took very little force to remove it. I snugged it up better. Maybe I should wait before buying new ones and see if it runs well. Although I like the idea of new plugs, I'd hate to throw away perfectly good ones.
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Old 10-20-2018, 11:21 AM   #149
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There no harm is replacing them and trust me when I say it is easier when the engine is out of the car. The wiper shroud is in the way of a long ratchet when doing it in the car so it is not as simple as on the 1nz. But in all honesty iridium plugs are not necessarily cheap and they last a long time. I kept min in for a whole year of tracking the car and didn't replace them until midway through this year when they had 130k km on them. They still looked great and I noticed no difference with new ones. Imo I'd keep them in the cat until the owners manual stated yo replace them

O and I forgot to chime in on one if your previous Q's - 100% remove the wiper shroud and metal shield before doing the swap it opens of a ton if space right back to the fire wall. If you have an air ratchet or cordless ratchet it will make quick work if the 10mm bolts holding it in
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Old 10-20-2018, 12:29 PM   #150
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Trevor just reminded me, the plate on the back of the timing cover does leak on mine. I would reseal that for sure. It’s at the top of the engine, on the back about where the exhaust manifold is. It’s a cover to access the chain tensioner
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:02 PM   #151
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Yes for sure do what Tom said. I researched this before I swapped the engine in and found it was a weak spot for leaks. I purchased the oem on ring and new OEM plate for not much money and swapped that in before I put the engine in.

It can be done fairly easily with the engine in the cat but you would probably want to remove the wiper cowling so you can see what you are doing

Edit - I also did this on my wife's 1zz in her Vibe so I may be confusing this with my 2zr but I'm pretty sure I did this on my engine as well. Regardless I have no leaks
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:49 PM   #152
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Thanks Trevor and Tom. I will look into the plate in the timing cover and see what I'm looking at for eta on parts. I will also remove the wiper shroud.

Today I removed the oil cartridge cover. It was a beeotch to get off even with the filter wrench I picked up today - which, incidentally, doesn't fit tight to the bottom of the cover. Must be a cheap knockoff and very slightly too small. But, it does work. Anyhow, I recovered a couple ounces of used oil. It was dark but very fluid and slippery, no grit. I strained it with a very fine strainer and there was nothing at all in the oil. The filter looks good, and similar to pics I've seen online (many look a little crushed). The pleats were pretty much spotless.



I did a Lubricheck test and was very thrilled to see a reading that indicated the oil was still in good condition. I think Lubricheck is considered by those in the know - such as many from Bob Is The Oil Guy - to be a reasonable tool to assess the condition of engine oil. Not a Blackstone or similar lab UOA but still far from a snake oil type of deal, I believe. Regardless, it makes me feel good. I've used it over several oil changes and it does reflect what one might expect of oil condition. Fresh oil gives me a "1" and after 7K - 8K km, it will read in the "6" - "7" range. And, the results seem to have good repeatability, providing that the sensor is impeccably clean.

Here is the Lubricheck tool. For some reason I can't orient these pics north/south despite trying.



And, here is the reading, "7", from the used sample




Given the visual condition and cleanliness of the oil, the Lubrickeck result and the clean filter, I have convinced myself that there shouldn't be any major engine issues.


Finally, I did change the plugs out. I figured I'd grab them @$14.00 each from Canadian Tire. Well, also to briefly escape 5 pumped-up-on-sugar 8 yr old girls and son (Daughter's B-Day party). My wife and I took turns.

Here are the plugs. There were a few different numbers along with these. These are identical in dimensions though appear to have a very, very slightly larger gap. Though, these are the 4711 TT (Twin Tip) Iridium plug that Denso flogs as providing more power, torque (yeah, right lol). The original ones appear to be the 3444 plug. I understood that these new plugs come pre-gapped. Maybe I should remove them and check the gap, though I haven't had to gap plugs in years.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-20-2018 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 10-21-2018, 09:44 AM   #153
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Help! I need Advice Gents!

I went out to check the timing cover window you guys mentioned and found what looks like part of the timing cover gasket pinched out. It looked like there has been a very small leak. A lot of what you see, moisture-wise, is Releasall penetrant I sprayed for the window bolts but it looks as though there has been some oil leaking. Not sure if it is actually from this cover or the actual timing cover seal. On close inspection, there looks like there is still some seal between the block and timing cover.

Is it likely that this seal was improperly installed at the factory? I can say that the idea of removing all the pulleys, timing cover is something that I really, really don't want to do.



I also loosened all the bolts for the intake manifold so I can replace my pcv valve. I soaked them with Releasall but they still came off quite hard. It should be an easy removal now.


Timing Chain Tensioner

Had a bit of a scare after removing the tensioner as I couldn't get it back in. A quick youtube video explained that you compress the tensioner (pre-load it), and hold it with the little hook. It's supposed to release by itself once the timing chain slaps it. If you slightly squeeze the plunger, the hook does pop right off. Fingers crossed that it actually does release, put tension on the chain and the timing chain stays in the correct spot on the timing gear! EDIT: The pre-loaded tensioner mechanism releases when you turn the crank. You can hear it click. To be sure, I removed and re-installed twice.

Have to source a gasket but having a little trouble doing that at atm. EDIT: Looks like Toyota Part#13552-0T020 The one on there is pretty darn thin. I think I'll use some RTV too.




Intake Removal and PCV Valve

Took the intake off to access the PCV valve. I cleaned up the aluminum mating surface on the engine. It was a tad dirty.



The pcv valve had typical light carbon on it but it jiggled freely inside and the spring worked well. Since I'd have to order a new pcv valve - no one locally stocks them and it's likely a special order item - I thought I'd clean it up and reinstall. I soaked it in lacquer thinner and within seconds it was spotless; all traces of carbon disappeared. Strong solvent! Put a little teflon tape on it and reinstalled. If the pcv valve does fail, it looks like not too bad a job with the engine in the car - then again, it might be really tight with the 2ZR in the Yaris.



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Old 10-21-2018, 10:09 AM   #154
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The sealant that actually seals is the stuff sandwiched between the 2 mating surfaces and not what gets squished out. There should still be more than enough RTV between the 2 surfaces from the factory. I would be astonished if the factory messed that up so unless someone else removed the timing cover then it should be fine.

It is likely an issues from the chain tensioner gasket. I'd recommend just replacing that, giving it a good cleaning and seeing if it ever leaks again.

That said, it is almost impossible to replace the timing cover while the 2zr is in the yaris and it is so much easier when it is out of the car. Either way it is never a quick easy job so I'd just leave it and trust that the timing cover deal is still good
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:29 AM   #155
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The sealant that actually seals is the stuff sandwiched between the 2 mating surfaces and not what gets squished out. There should still be more than enough RTV between the 2 surfaces from the factory. I would be astonished if the factory messed that up so unless someone else removed the timing cover then it should be fine.

It is likely an issues from the chain tensioner gasket. I'd recommend just replacing that, giving it a good cleaning and seeing if it ever leaks again.

That said, it is almost impossible to replace the timing cover while the 2zr is in the yaris and it is so much easier when it is out of the car. Either way it is never a quick easy job so I'd just leave it and trust that the timing cover deal is still good
THANK YOU, TREVOR! Not only are you guys providing me with invaluable technical info but you're helping with my confidence level too! I greatly appreciate it.
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:37 PM   #156
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That looks like the classic plate leak we mentioned, because the engine leans aft a bit when installed all of that leaking oil travels along the head gasket at timing cover seams. Replace the plate gasket and clean it like Trevor mentioned, and you’ll never see another leak.

Sealer squeezed out of that part of the chain cover because it’s a 3-way joint, and the manual requires extra.
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:04 PM   #157
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That looks like the classic plate leak we mentioned, because the engine leans aft a bit when installed all of that leaking oil travels along the head gasket at timing cover seams. Replace the plate gasket and clean it like Trevor mentioned, and you’ll never see another leak.

Sealer squeezed out of that part of the chain cover because it’s a 3-way joint, and the manual requires extra.
Awesome! Thanks Tom! I will replace the gasket. Off to source said part now...

EDIT: Timing tensioner gasket is Toyota Part#13552-0T020
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:15 PM   #158
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AC Discharge Today.

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Old 10-22-2018, 08:30 PM   #159
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Very exciting times await....
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:02 PM   #160
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Lifted Up

Saturday looks like the day for the swap. During the week I am going to remove front, wiper cowl, air box, battery etc. My plan is to spray the bell housing bolts and other bolts with Releasall daily until Saturday. I'll also pick up a can of mapp gas in case I run into any stuck bolts.

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Old 10-22-2018, 09:15 PM   #161
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Good luck! I spent a few hours the evening before the swap to rip off all the front end stuff. This allowed me to "start" my swap getting right into the engine which I felt was a great plan

I also drained all the fluids and what not so the first official day was me figuring out exactly how to get the engine out
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:27 PM   #162
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Good luck! I spent a few hours the evening before the swap to rip off all the front end stuff. This allowed me to "start" my swap getting right into the engine which I felt was a great plan

I also drained all the fluids and what not so the first official day was me figuring out exactly how to get the engine out
Trevor your ability to get this done in one weekend AND all of the great content you’re providing is pushing me to encourage YOU to do a “Yaris engine removal” tutorial
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