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Old 04-03-2009, 06:18 PM   #1
gwasabi
 
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Tricking the ECU to Relearn AF map

I've been reading a bunch of people who installed the throttle body and are having CEL coming on. I used to drive a G35 and a Celica and having done intake mods to it and having CEL come on, I asked one of my modder friends to help me get rid of this. This trick worked on both my celica and G35. This should get rid of the Oscillation and CEL light after installing the 1zz TB.

NOTE: THIS ONLY WORKS FOR MANUAL TRANS! AUTO TRANS HAS A SET TB OPENING POINT SO THIS METHOD WON'T WORK!

Step 1: Install TB....I don't have a DIY for this, just find someone else's and do so.

Step 2: Get all the air out of the Radiator hose. This is done by popping off the radiator cover and running the engine until the radiator doesn't bubble anymore. It should overflow a bit. Just cap it once it does.

NOTE: STEP 2 IS VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!! THIS IS THE REASON WHY WOU WILL GET RANDOM OSCILLATION AND CEL DURING DRIVING!!!!

Step 3: Disconnect battery over night (I disconnected for about 2 hours). This is to make sure the ECU resets itself. Then reconnect the battery.

Step 4: Turn car on and you will notice it oscillate for a while. Usually for about 2 min or so. let it settle.

Step 5: IN NEUTRAL, Rev the car up to about 4-5k RPM for about 5 min. Then let the car idle for about 2 min. Then Rev the car up to about 4-5k RPM for another 5 min. The ECU learns how you drive and tries to adjust the AF ratio according to your driving performance. Doing this step tricks the ECU into thinking that you are driving "super crazy racer maniac style".....honestly its just saying you drive with a heavy foot so it puts more fuel at a faster rate to compensate for the amount of air coming in.

NOTE: IN STEP 5 I ONLY PUT THAT YOU DO THIS CYCLE TWICE. I ACTUALLY DID IT ABOUT 3 -5 TIMES. THIS IS TO PUT THE ECU INTO THINKING YOU DRIVE HARDER TO COMPENSATE FOR THE EXTRA AIR BEING LET IN. IF YOUR WORRIED ABOUT THE ENGINE THEN USE A CYCLE OF 3-1-3-1-3-1 (ex. 3 min rev at 4k, then 1 min of idle). ALSO NOTE YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT AT 75% OPEN THROTTLE which will bring the car up to about 4-5K in RPM.

Step 6: Turn car off for about 5 min. Start it up. And Test drive. If you still get the CEL an oscillation, park, then do Step 5 again.'

NOTE: TURNING THE CAR OFF HELPS THE ECU TO STORE YOUR DRIVING STYLE AND LET IT SETTLE DOWN. YOU DON'T NORMALLY HAVE TO DO THIS STEP BUT I SUGGEST YOU DO AS A PRECAUTION!

DRIVE IT AROUND FOR A WEEK. During this week you will get some CEL and oscillation but it should go away soon. if it continues after a week try Step 5 again.

I did this trick on my celica, g35, and Yaris and seem to have worked all three times. My yaris is running off the 1zz throttle body without the chip mod and I haven't had oscillation or CEL thrown for over 3 months. when I did this trick, the CEL and oscillation went away immediately.

I'm not garanteeing this as a surefire way to get rid of it but it seems to work on most cars. Try it out if you have the time and let me know!

Hope it works for you guys too!

BTW I drive a 07 Yaris HB MANUAL!

Last edited by gwasabi; 04-27-2009 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:44 PM   #2
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Thanks for posting this fix.

Does this also fix the high rpm cold idle?
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:37 PM   #3
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I do not believe you can fix the high COLD idle, as the butterfly valve opening is around 30% larger, therefore it opens the throttle 30% more without realizing it.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:17 PM   #4
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What I did with mine was to disconnect the battery for 10-15 mins and reconnect.

If you successfully reset the ECU, once you start the engine, you will feel (or if you are standing in front of the bonnet, you will see it is shaking back-forth) actually the engine kinda shake a bit for 4-5 seconds.

Then start to drive like you stole it for a while (1-2 tanks). Then the process is completed.
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:29 AM   #5
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Yeah gwasabi's procedure should help, the ECU does have a learning feature for the throttle controller, letting it idle for a while *after* using the engine (driving, or revving in place like this) should kick this in.
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Bye bye 1NZ...
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Old 04-04-2009, 10:00 AM   #6
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2 things come to mind. i have no tach so how do i know rpms and isn't 5k a bit high to be reving for 5 minutes straight......
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Old 04-04-2009, 11:54 AM   #7
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I wonder if we could trick the ecu into think the Yaris is a F1 car instead of an Econobox....


J/K


You got me lost with something... what does the radiator has tod do with the hole ECU re learning process?


But yeah... the ECU learns the way you drive. I found that a long time ago when I was doing an audio installation to the car and the battery was unpplugged for over 24hrs.


When I drove the car after that it was really slow... laggy response... but after 30 min of suffering my driving style it came back to normal....

I guess it helps to do this during night or with a fresh climate instead of doing it on a hot day.
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
I wonder if we could trick the ecu into think the Yaris is a F1 car instead of an Econobox....


J/K


You got me lost with something... what does the radiator has tod do with the hole ECU re learning process?
I'll take a stab and guess that that's solely for cooling purposes. Any air in the radiator will reduce its cooling abilities, since you'll be revving at 5k fro 5 mins at a time, seems as though a little extra cooling might be a good idea.
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:23 PM   #9
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did anyone still have oscillation AFTER the 1zz to 1nz chip swap?
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:19 PM   #10
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The radiator part (Part 2) is so after you install the 1zz you get all the air bubbles in the coolant hose out. If you have air in the coolant hose then you will get a CEL at wierd times. You'll be driving about 20 miles without it on then about 2 miles with it on then another 20 miles without it on. When the air goes through the coolant hose and goes through a certain part of the car, it will reduce your car's tourque dramatically. You can actually feel the loss of power. You'll be driving fine for a while then all of a sudden a dip in the powerband then it goes back up gradually. Also, your hose might explode(not really explode but the air causes a gap in the hose bung) and leak coolant all over your engine bay......it happened to me.

You can figure out roughly where your RPM limitor is at by reving as hard as u can and see where your rev bounces then from there make an educated guess :) I just reved mine up about 3/4 way
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Old 04-04-2009, 05:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexNet0 View Post
did anyone still have oscillation AFTER the 1zz to 1nz chip swap?
Oscillation gone after chip swap with mine. Only problem is high cold idle. I can live with that for the increase in power this gives.
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Old 04-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #12
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just to double check the throttle body off an 03/04 matrix/corolla is the one everyone is doing the swap with correct?
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Old 04-05-2009, 09:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHXDEMON View Post
just to double check the throttle body off an 03/04 matrix/corolla is the one everyone is doing the swap with correct?
'05 and up drive by wire Tb's from the matrix/corolla with the 1zz engine
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:43 PM   #14
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im going to swap it tomorrow

i'll give this a try and hope it works
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:54 PM   #15
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good luck m8 i wait for your results....
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:23 PM   #16
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so kustom did your car blow up lol or is it ok
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:34 PM   #17
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i did a similar procedure w/ my tb last year and never had problems. you've GOT TO disconnect the battery and when the new tb is installed, let the car idle for 10-15min before a test drive

alexnet0 is right, the high cold idle wont go away due to the 1zz tb being so much larger than th 1nz tb

i still have an extra 1zzfe tb for sale btw
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:52 PM   #18
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i didnt end up trying this out yet, i havent had the time to do it

im going to try to give it a shot in the next few days and i will post up my findings
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