Clutch survey

[Rigaud]

Originally Posted by Kal-El

I'm on the original with no issues, 171,600 miles.

It's not so much about mileage but the ratio of city/highway, driving style, etc.
If you commute in gridlock an hour each way in Los Angeles, DC, or Manhatten, your clutch is going to have a relatively short life.

On the other hand, we've seen Yaris's go 300, 350K on the original clutch with like 80% highway driving.

Very good point.

Half the time, I don't even use the clutch while getting up to speed on the highway.

[BLKHILLSGUY]

Originally Posted by Rigaud

Very good point.

Half the time, I don't even use the clutch while getting up to speed on the highway.

I'm confused. You don't use the clutch to get up to speed on the highway? Well what exactly do you do?

[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by BLKHILLSGUY

I'm confused. You don't use the clutch to get up to speed on the highway? Well what exactly do you do?

It is possible, if you know where the sweet spot is, to shift without needing to clutch it.


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[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by Lux

Double-clutched rev-matched downshifts every time, every day since purchase.

do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???

[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

It is possible, if you know where the sweet spot is, to shift without needing to clutch it.


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yes it's possible, but it is very hard on the edges of the gear teeth in the transaxle. it can cause issues with carrier bearings and thrust washers. I recommend only doing this...never. use your clutch. it's much cheaper than a trans.
same thing with using transmission as a engine brake, sure it will bog the engine causing friction resistance and slowing of the vehicle, but brake pads cost $60 where a worn out transaxle costs....much more

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

same thing with using transmission as a engine brake, sure it will bog the engine causing friction resistance and slowing of the vehicle, but brake pads cost $60 where a worn out transaxle costs....much more

For daily driving, sure. For performance applications, you can't beat the combo of brakes + engine deceleration. There's no way I'm going to clutch in while setting up for a hard corner. =)

[fnkngrv]

2007 Sedan
miles: pulled at around 45k miles

I upgraded to the CCI Stage 3 clutch and ultra lightweight flywheel combo. For a long time it was one of my best investments other than going turbo.

Last fall during my speed runs I pretty much did a lot of stress damage to the pressure plate apparently because about 6 weeks later I had 3 of the 5 springs let go on it (25k miles on the setup). I would never buy another CCI product again personally. I contacted them because they stated that the clutch assembly should hold up to 300whp/280tq. I was running 250/245 and yet the pressure plate broke. I don't hoon on the car nor do I do things like auto x, etc. I asked them to meet me in the middle on a replacement and they flat our refused. This was the straw that broke the camel's back. I can prove via dyno results where my power was at and my logs on my EMS can show that I didn't over rev nor abuse the clutch.

The first issue that I had with them was that they claim to have payouts for setting records and winning races. I sent them my information back in 2012 when I set 6 new records. They informed me that Land Speed Racing isn't well enough known for a payout?!?!? Last time I checked Bonneville Speed Week is a pretty big deal, but whatever makes them sleep at night.

I upgraded to a Stage 3 setup from ACT this time around. It is their best and highest rated kit for street/track use. It is a 6 puck, but I have been told by a few very good sources that have them equipped on their 1nz that it is a very usage scenario for DD so we shall see in a couple months when the car is buttoned back up.

[Yaristeve]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???

Perhaps... ... because it is fun? Especially during heel-and-toe downshifts through corners...

Synchros or not, double clutching makes for smoother downshifting under certain conditions if done correctly.

[Squid111999]

Just recently started trying to rev match while down shifting but with no tach and a stereo that drowns out any sounds from the car its a lil difficult, but I feel like I'm getting the hang of it, just wanna get some wider pedals cuz the stock ones are tiny

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[CoryM]

To add my experience:
Replaced the OE clutch at 70,000km. Clutch still had probably 60-70% material, but some pressure-plate springs were soft (Clutch height was erratic). The release-bearing also was wearing through the springs pretty bad. I do a fair bit of autoX with the car, and drive on R-comps for several months a year. Pretty hard on things.

The OE clutch is VERY sturdy built. Don't worry about a little slipping, or the occasional jerky engagement; It won't hurt it at all. Toyota built these clutches to last. The flip side is they are heavy. I installed a LUK kit which was a fair bit lighter (and will not last nearly as long). The lighter weight allows a small, but noticeable difference in acceleration. Pedal feel is similar (poor) with maybe 10% more effort required than the OE clutch.

[Squid111999]

Originally Posted by Adriaan

2006 hatchback. 368000km 229000 miles, still on OEM clutch, starting to shudder in first gear and disengagement a little hard from 3 to 4. Have to change the transmission fluid at 380000. So i'll change the clutch then.

Cannot believe that thing is still working lol, must do alot of long distance commuting. Good to know how reliable it is so I don't have to worry about my lack of experience with a manual. I've only driven 3 manual cars, an 89 535i, custom built vw powered dune buggy and this 08 yaris.

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[Hi mpg]

2010 bought new, now has 222k miles on clutch. Only problems has been rear wheel bearings.

[Lux]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???

It is a force of habit from my old 4Runner and Supra gearboxes whose synchroniser assemblies were significantly worn. The double-clutch rev-match forgoes the reliance on friction against the synchroniser blocker rings to match the input shaft speed with the output and counter shafts.

In doing this, pushing the shift lever into the gates during a downshift requires, literally, almost no effort, with only a cunt hair of resistance from the shift rod detents. Mind you, my Yaris gearbox still sees significant and frequent abuse.

My upshifts are still normal "granny shifting" and is the only time my synchronisers are being used.

[Deathegg]

2010 three door, bought with 6000 milea in 2011. Now a bit over 70k, no issues as far as I know. But I'll tell ya - next car if I stay in SoCal will be an auto.

[mryaris]

I'm the original owner of my 2010 hatchback.....bought it right at 6 years ago (Nov. 2009). It has 123k miles and still has the original clutch, which is functioning just fine. Most miles are highway......probably a 60/40 highway/city split.