DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 9 - Toyota Yaris Forums

MGargano · 04-26-2009, 07:16 PM

Good so far. Got oscillation on the first & second cold start but so far I'm 2 days oscillation free. I got a CEL today but took care of it with the Scangauge. I'm just glad the oscillation's gone.

PHXDEMON · 04-26-2009, 09:33 PM

Can't wait to get my TB in the mail

kustom play · 04-27-2009, 10:37 AM

my CEL kicked off today so we'll see how long that lasts for

MGargano · 04-27-2009, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustom play

my CEL kicked off today so we'll see how long that lasts for

Mine came on this morning too... got minor oscillation at cold start this morning also but nothing major.

marcus · 04-29-2009, 02:08 PM

bump for update...

jkuchta · 04-29-2009, 02:55 PM

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

BLAZINBLUEVITZ · 04-29-2009, 04:43 PM

9 PAGES and i still see a CEL.......

MGargano · 04-29-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

P0505- Idle Malfunction. No, I haven't adjusted the idle screw.

jkuchta · 04-29-2009, 06:41 PM

^

That's why you get a CEL. You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL, as it's a result of the ECU having to over-adjust to hit a target idle RPM. Re-read thread #78, and you will more than likely get rid of the CEL for good.

mikenacarato · 04-29-2009, 09:32 PM

no you dont. i didnt touch my idle screw, its still covered in the hard crap. all i did was the chip swap, nothing else.

eii · 05-02-2009, 04:11 PM

Cool thanks for the diy.

I got my 1zz tb from crxgames. I removed the rivets, swapped the chips, screwed them on, and added some rvt gasket maker. Plugged in the new 1zz tb with the 1nz chip and started her up. This was after I had disconnected the battery for an hour. So it started to oscilate from 2-3k like many others have mentioned. I waited for exactly 10 minutes and it ended up idling at around the same rpms as the stock tb. Drove around a bit and no cel. I didnt mess with the idle screw cause the idle was just fine. I had to run some errands and every time I started up my car no problems or cel. I have yet to start my car during a cold start up so I'll chime back in here with results. The ecu hasnt learned the changes completely yet, my auto keeps shifting too early still. I can tell theres gonna be a ton of power over 3k. I'm not sure thought, but i think i'm feeling a lot of increase in low end...@_@

Getting some headers worked on right now, should compliment the TB very well.

jkuchta · 05-02-2009, 04:22 PM

Mike, Mgargano's specific CEL is more than likely caused by the idle screw not being adjusted.

cali yaris · 05-02-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL

right -- read the whole sentence above, it's to get rid of a CEL. If you didn't get a CEL, you don't have to adjust it.

eii · 05-02-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bxrich

quick ? guys what's the diameter on the 1zz tb is it 2" & half or 3"

stock yaris 1nz tb is 2"
1zz tb is 2.5"

t0m4s · 05-03-2009, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eii

stock yaris 1nz tb is 2"
1zz tb is 2.5"

i think 1nz tb is 2.25"
no?

marcus · 05-03-2009, 09:16 AM

bumpin..

eii · 05-04-2009, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t0m4s

i think 1nz tb is 2.25"
no?

Pic of my 1nz tb now a paper weight on my desk <3

PHXDEMON · 05-05-2009, 11:02 PM

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

04-27-2009, 10:37 AM	#147
kustom play pink wheels are cool View User's Garage Drives: 07 liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix Posts: 1,407	my CEL kicked off today so we'll see how long that lasts for __________________ http://www.4055design.com

04-29-2009, 04:43 PM	#151
BLAZINBLUEVITZ View User's Garage Drives: 2007 YARIS 3DOOR Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: NEW YORK Posts: 1,275	9 PAGES and i still see a CEL....... __________________ EVERYBODY EVENTUALLY COMES BACK TO YARISWORLD......

05-02-2009, 04:11 PM	#155
eii Rides canyon walls Drives: 1988 RX7 FC 10th AE Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 503	Cool thanks for the diy. I got my 1zz tb from crxgames. I removed the rivets, swapped the chips, screwed them on, and added some rvt gasket maker. Plugged in the new 1zz tb with the 1nz chip and started her up. This was after I had disconnected the battery for an hour. So it started to oscilate from 2-3k like many others have mentioned. I waited for exactly 10 minutes and it ended up idling at around the same rpms as the stock tb. Drove around a bit and no cel. I didnt mess with the idle screw cause the idle was just fine. I had to run some errands and every time I started up my car no problems or cel. I have yet to start my car during a cold start up so I'll chime back in here with results. The ecu hasnt learned the changes completely yet, my auto keeps shifting too early still. I can tell theres gonna be a ton of power over 3k. I'm not sure thought, but i think i'm feeling a lot of increase in low end...@_@ Getting some headers worked on right now, should compliment the TB very well. __________________ OEM Style Wing Spoiler \| TRD Axle-Back Exhaust \| Megan Lowering Springs (1.5 f/r) \| Simota Carbon Charger Intake \| Python 871XP Alarm System \| Aluminum Sports Pedal \| 17x7 +42mm Enkei J10 Black w/ Silver Lip \| 205/40 Falken Ziex-912 \| NST Lite Crank Pulley Red \| 1ZZ-FE Throttle Body \| AMK Racing Header Last edited by eii; 05-02-2009 at 04:23 PM.

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04-26-2009, 07:16 PM	#145
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Good so far. Got oscillation on the first & second cold start but so far I'm 2 days oscillation free. I got a CEL today but took care of it with the Scangauge. I'm just glad the oscillation's gone.

04-26-2009, 09:33 PM	#146
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	Can't wait to get my TB in the mail

04-29-2009, 02:08 PM	#149
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	bump for update...

04-29-2009, 02:55 PM	#150
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

04-29-2009, 06:41 PM	#153
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	^ That's why you get a CEL. You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL, as it's a result of the ECU having to over-adjust to hit a target idle RPM. Re-read thread #78, and you will more than likely get rid of the CEL for good.

04-29-2009, 09:32 PM	#154
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	no you dont. i didnt touch my idle screw, its still covered in the hard crap. all i did was the chip swap, nothing else.

05-02-2009, 04:22 PM	#156
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Mike, Mgargano's specific CEL is more than likely caused by the idle screw not being adjusted.

05-03-2009, 09:16 AM	#160
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	bumpin..

05-05-2009, 11:02 PM	#162
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.