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Old 06-07-2019, 11:31 AM   #199
tmontague
 
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Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Looking forward to your thoughts after the next track session.
for sure, I'm looking forward to seeing the differences compared to last year
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:41 AM   #200
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I spent some time yesterday trying to improve airflow in the front wheel wells. I added some venting to get fresh air into the wheel well to aid in brake cooling as well as venting the wheel well via the front quarter panel.

To vent the front quarter panel I had to remove the panel and cut out some supporting metal which was right in the way of blocking the air flow. i then reinstalled the panel minus the one mounting tab that i had removed and then used a pry bar wrapped in a thick towel to manually bend it out.

The end result is a functional gap that allows the high pressure air in the wheel well to escape beside the front door.





I also cut air flow hole in the front fender cover as well as in my fog light shroud. This isn't going to be as effective as actual ducting, but it is much easier to do without having to route tubes in the area. The Yaris is a light car and not overly hard on brakes so this should at least allow fresh cooler air to be introduced into that area. I had previously pried back the dust shield so that it can force air to the rotor instead of block it and the new air holes should compliment this nicely.

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Old 06-07-2019, 11:54 AM   #201
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Sweet! I've seen the same fender trick done on an SW11 MR2.
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Old 06-09-2019, 11:15 PM   #202
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Track Day #1 2019 - A ton of good info gathered

Well, the first track day of the year went off very well on Friday night. Met up with Ron and a couple other guys/gals from the WannaBspecs and we all had fun times lapping and chatting. It's always a fun time when you can meet up with friends vs flying solo.

I learned a ton of info on how successful my winter modifications were and how important confidence inspiring tires are. Long story short, I beat my fastest lap time from last year by over 3.5 seconds...and there is at least a second more to be had just in braking zones. My current fastest lap is a 1:26:48 and I was consistently turning out laps of 1:27. This makes driving on the track much more enjoyable as I am now the one putting pressure on other fast cars and getting the point by, vs having to always point others by.

The Nankang AR1's are very good tires. They give an audible feedback when pushed to the limit and they breakaway in a very controllable manner. This encourages you to drive past the tires limit and use driver skill to control the slide. This is much faster and allows you to learn how to drive with some slip angle. My confidence has gone up tremendously with these tires over the corded BFG R1's as I now can drive 10/10ths and push past the limit of the tires and not deal with snap oversteer.

I also noticed that the AR1's really shine in braking zones. I find myself realising that I have braked and scrubbed off too much speed before some corners. If you do go into a corner with too much speed these tires are still controllable in a well balanced car. My car now had a tendency to understeer and I'll have to play around with a higher dampening in the rear than what I ran with the R1's. I didn't adjust dampening this track day as it was only the first outing, but once it is adjusted to increase oversteer, my lap times should greatly improve. I prefer a slight tail happy car, and although it isn't plowing right now, it isn't as tail happy as I would like. I find it difficult in the twistys to get the rear end to kick out with lifting off the throttle so I don't have to steer to get me pointed to where I want.

Pic of the brand new tires after 133km of hard flogging of the car - it took it like a champ
The most worn tire (front left - TMP is notoriously hard on FL tires)






I think I have hit the limit of the Carbotech XP10's. They have only about 20% left in them and 3 of the 4 pads are past the rivets (this is fine as the rivets are made with a soft metal so they don't eat away at the rotor for this reason) I never experienced brake fade at all but they xp10's seemed to have lost their hard initial bite that I'm accustomed to. Also there very fast wear rate would explain this as well.

I have contacted a company called G-loc brakes which is a spin off of Carbotech and they have similar compound formulation as Carbotech with a slightly cheaper price and some good reviews on longevity with some Unlimited Time Attack FWD guys. I'm waiting for their recommendation on pad compound and then I'll pull the trigger. I don't think my pads will last another full track day so I'll probably have to keep them as emergency back ups.

most worn pad




I have found that both front calipers have multiple tears in the rubber dust boot which looks to be caused from the heat or just the fact that they are over 10 years old. I'll use them for the rest of the season but plan to rebuild them this year with a rebuild kit off of RockAuto. They are not leaking at all, just the dust boot is torn.

Here is some really valuable info that I have been excited to find out - Oil and coolant temp/pressure info. So, recall that last year with ~ 25-28C ambient temps my coolant would peak at 238F and typically would sit at 228-235F about 8 mins into a session.

Oil temps would start to follow and would peak at 290F and typically sit around 285F as long as I was redlining the engine and going WOT (so for most of the session). This was on 5w30 Pennzoil UP oil.

On Friday the ambient temps were 24C (slightly lower than last summer) and I am now running Quaker State UD 0w20 and I now have a larger frontal area and dual core radiator, no a/c condenser in front of the rad and radiator ducting from the whole lower grill mouth. Here is my peak and average temps and pressure readings from the full Friday session:

Oil temp Peak: 252F AVG: 242F
Oil Pressure at idle right when I pulled in the paddock: 8-9 psi
Coolant temp peak: 191F AVG 188F

It is logical that oil and coolant temp influence each other and that lowering coolant will bring oil temps down to a certain degree. Also 0w20 oil will run cooler than a 5w30 as tests have shown in the gt-86 community. But damn am I ever impressed with my driveway fabricated/hacked radiator install and ducting. I now have lower on track coolant temps with my current set up than I ever did in bumper to bumper traffic with the OE radiator! I also found out my Mishimoto fan works excellently and fairly quietly as it kicked on when coolant peaked at 204F only in the paddock once my car was sitting. It would run for 30 seconds to a minute and then kick off.

The coolest part of the evening was having boosted >$100 grand BMW's from the wealthy foreign students flying off the track in clouds of dust trying to stick on my tail through the higher speed turns (money doesn't buy driver skill). I also had a few go off in front of me as they refused to give me a point by so I rode their ass throughout the twisty part of the track and they would over drive and go off in turns. They later that night a handful of them coming up to my car asking what crazy set up I had under the hood. To their dismay it is a stock Corolla engine with stock tune with approx 132whp...

I had another group comment on how cool it was that a Yaris was so fast and how it sounded like there was an insane engine under the hood (currently running 1 cat and resonator only). These same people were mentioning how their STI and Cobalt SS could only do 3 laps and then their (boosted) engines would heat soak and pull timing and their brakes would fade. Not the Yaris, lap after lap it just kept getting faster and faster, no timing pulled, no heat soak, no engine issues or temp problems, just absolutely perfect. One of the many reasons all engine builds are ideal for the track.

The only odd thing I noticed was that during high rpm, WOT if I looked at the oil temp, it would fluctuate between the highest temp (244F) and down as low as 186F quickly. Almost as if the oil was being pumped so fast it was either missing oil and reading air, or the oil was actually cooler in certain parts it was picking up due to very high oil flow...I'm stumped on this one. As soon as the rpm dropped the temp read consistent around 244F.

My front left tire which is the most stressed lost a huge amount of air on one session. It seemed like it wasn't leaking but may have burped some on turn 1. I refilled it a bit higher and after a couple more sessions, it did lose a bit more but never that large amount. I checked it when I got home and using the soapy water test, it came up negative for leaks. I'll check it over the next few days and see how it hold air. I may just have to run that tire at a much higher psi so the sidewall is stiffer.

All in all a great session and it really highlighted the potential this car has. I am very impressed with how well my cooling mods did and how effective they were. It was also nice to see science and empirical data win out in the real world over age old tradition in regards to oil viscocities. After the temps and pressures seen this session, I'm doubtful I will ever have a situation where 5w30 is needed.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:55 AM   #203
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Sounds like you had a blast, lots of good info here!

That does wound a bit odd with the oil temps. Not sure if this applies to the 2zr but I know with the 4ages we have oil starvation problems when it's being pushed hard and/or during repeated hard cornering. We combat this with running a baffle in the oil pan or if you're truly dedicated, going with a dry sump setup. It's been a little while since I've worked on my MR2 or done much reading on the 4age so take that with a grain of salt. Anywho, perhaps it's similar with the 2zr?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:52 AM   #204
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Sounds like you had a blast, lots of good info here!

That does wound a bit odd with the oil temps. Not sure if this applies to the 2zr but I know with the 4ages we have oil starvation problems when it's being pushed hard and/or during repeated hard cornering. We combat this with running a baffle in the oil pan or if you're truly dedicated, going with a dry sump setup. It's been a little while since I've worked on my MR2 or done much reading on the 4age so take that with a grain of salt. Anywho, perhaps it's similar with the 2zr?
This is what I originally thought, dreaded oil starvation. However, this was only noticed on the front straightaway (mind you I wasn't able to monitor my gauges in the corners). At this same time my oil pressure was always consistent and fine, something I would have expected to drop if it was oil starvation.

At this point I don't know what it is from, I'm thinking something to do with the oil pressure bypass as it dumps excess oil back into the pan? My engine has no new noises or weird hiccups so I can't imagine oil starvation has been a problem for me yet.

As a side note - I looked back into my thread and realized that the xp10's only lasted me 3 track day or ~350-370km's. Of which the first track day was my first time on a track pad so I wasn't pushing them nearly as hard as I did this last session. Definitely going with G-Loc pads next and a much stronger compound, hopefully they will last longer
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Old 06-10-2019, 11:19 AM   #205
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...lots of good info here!
+1
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:15 PM   #206
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After reviewing the track day in my head I have come to some conclusions on what I can improve on. First and foremost, I need a higher heat track pad - so far it seems I will be going with G-Loc's R16 compounds which can take up to 2000F and has a slightly higher coefficient of friction than my xp10's from Carbotech.

I have no doubt that I can get well into the 1:25's with a little bit or time on my current set up. Things that I noticed at the last track day:

1. I was braking too early for my new tires and brake set up. I found myself going into the corners hard, but I was throttling through the corner almost right after entering it. This means I could have braked later and carried more speed into the corner.

2. I wasn't able to adequately trail brake to swing my rear end around and I was more or less controlling the under steer throughout the corners. This is partly due to issue #1. I braked too early which scrubbed off too much speed so I didn't have enough momentum going into the corner to scrub off with trail braking.

3. There are a few faster paced dogleg corners that I know the car is capable of going through while staying on full throttle. As of now I am backing off and only giving part throttle. This is causing me to not have enough momentum to trail brake into turn 11 (the last turn before the final straight away)

With my old tire set up the snap over steer was so quick and without warning that I would have to be cautious of it and back on going late into corners. With my set up this year, I can brake late into corners with some solid trail braking as my oversteer is much more controlled. My front tires (especially the FL) were worn down quite a bit and took a beating. They took it like a champ but compared to the rear they work over time. This is partly due to my car being FWD, the track and me not trail braking enough. With my more or less controlling under steer most laps instead of over steer, the front tires got more cooked.

I also had some constant air loss in my FL tire but yet I have no air leaks. It was due to the tire burping air during hard cornering. I will have to air it up a bit more next time out but I also need to work the rear tires more so the front are worked less - oversteer will achieve this.

Next session out will be focusing on braking later and trail braking to see how late I can go and how well the rear end kicks out. I've contemplated doing some driver education classes at the track as they would really help a more experienced driver pin point what I can do in the car to make my times faster. The thing is that they cost around $400-$500 for the day which at this point in time is money I don't have if I want to be able to afford wear items and keep my car track ready. I do think the HPDE events are a great idea but I am still getting faster and faster every time out at the track and I am always reading as much as I can and talking to more experienced drivers. So for now I'll have to forgo the HPDE courses until I start to plateau or have some more cash.
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:22 PM   #207
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Sounds like you are figuring out how to squeeze every ounce of performance out of the Yaris sedan. It's really great to hear how capable our little bugs are, especially when compared to more expensive sport-type cars. Great wotk there Mr. Montague. Excellent research put into practice. Kudos!
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:00 PM   #208
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Sounds like you are figuring out how to squeeze every ounce of performance out of the Yaris sedan. It's really great to hear how capable our little bugs are, especially when compared to more expensive sport-type cars. Great wotk there Mr. Montague. Excellent research put into practice. Kudos!
thank you. Unfortunately I will have to sit out the rest of June in terms of going to the track. I'm off work studying for the last of my board exams and we are planning to sell our house in September so money isn't free flowing right now. I also have burned through almost all of the pad life on my xp10's and track pads are not cheap at over $300 for the next set. I wasn't expecting to have to buy new brake pads so soon - I guess that is the reality of driving on the track, especially now that the car is becoming proper fast.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:25 PM   #209
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Revisiting the EBay gauge pod. I know, Trevor, that it didn't work for your sedan despite the listing saying that it would fit. I took many pics of the A-pillar cover in my '08 and '06 and this aftermarket A-piller looks very similar at every point. In my pic below, you can see that the Sedan has a very different A-Piller design than the hatch. Even though it looks as though they have tried to recreate the actual pillar, I would expect some fit and finish issues as well as having to figure out a way to attach the pod. Also, it's much shinier than my OEM pillar. I could adjust for that with a satin of flat clearcoat. I'm thinking I might order this pod, keeping in mind that some adjustments may have to be made. I'm not finding other locations in the car to mount gauges that are appealing to me. I could drill my driver's side upper glove box, but not really into that.

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Old 06-17-2019, 01:16 PM   #210
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hmm, I think you're on to something, I didn't realize the sedan has a different A pillar. It may turn out that it only fits LB's and not the sedan, either way I made it work and it has been find for me since the install.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:34 PM   #211
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hmm, I think you're on to something, I didn't realize the sedan has a different A pillar. It may turn out that it only fits LB's and not the sedan, either way I made it work and it has been find for me since the install.
Haha, I hope it fits and looks ok as I just ordered it.
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM   #212
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I'm not finding other locations in the car to mount gauges that are appealing to me.
During my supercharger build I played with a 2D laser cutter and mocked up a plastic gauge panel for the upper glovebox. It was just big enough for a ScanGauge II and two 55mm dials, but I never completed it. It's less than ideal on the track since you'd have to look that far down to see anything but it could be ok for less immediate information. There's a thread around here somewhere with my template...
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