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Old 06-09-2019, 10:00 PM   #235
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looks good, good luck!

are you using an oil restriction plate on your turbo oil inlet?
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Old 06-09-2019, 10:26 PM   #236
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looks good, good luck!

are you using an oil restriction plate on your turbo oil inlet?
Thanks! I'll need it.

I'm going to try my upgraded drain system first to see if it allows the turbo to drain quicker. The turbokits guys sent me a restrictor .06" that attaches to the fitting at the block as opposed to at the turbo oil inlet. If my smoking is cured by the larger drain, I won't install the restrictor. Despite what I've read online, I've been assured that a .06" restrictor is perfectly fine for a journal bearing turbo. Apparently they have a number of kits running with the restrictor. As a matter of interest, what oil pressures do you see routinely under low and high revs?

I've been struggling to figure out how to fix my fuel trim issues. My tuner says ditch the PCV altogether by blocking off the manifold and PCV. He says to use a vented catch can on the valve cover side. He believes it will fix my fuel trim issues . I like the idea of my crankcase being evacuated of all that crap. I'm not sure if I could run a hose from my valve cover to a sealed catch can and then into my 3" intake (pre-turbo) and if that would make any difference. Theoretically, no "new" air would be introduced into the system and there would be vacuum. But, then again if the vent is to allow air into the block as the PCV allows vacuum to clear the block, maybe these two sides would be fighting each other. I know that the F/IC has a MAP sensor built in and apparently MAP is unaffected by vacuum leaks or unmetered air. I have an email in to turbkits asking them to explain this. There isn't anything in the manual that talks about how to deal with the PCV/breather system and there's definitely no return fitting post MAF and pre-TB as in the stock system. I had a look at the F/IC fuel map today and it shows negative numbers that actually seem to parallel the positive fuel trims that I'm seeing. That said, I don't really understand the tables - yet. Maybe all my fuel trim issues will be resolved with the F/IC install.

Here is the latest I've been reading. About 1/2 down the page, "Keith" seems to explain it in a way I can comprehend. It's where I got teh idea to plumb the valve cover hose through a catch can to my custom 3" intake.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...l/11243/page1/

Feel free to speculate if you care to.

Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:36 AM   #237
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Fuel Trims and Toyota 02 Sensors and some updates

If found an interesting article on Toyota oxygen sensors. Most of the reading I've done online suggests that downstream 02 sensors are not related to fuel trims, but it seems that some Toyotas do infact collect data from the post-cat sensor which may influence fuel trims. From paragraph 22: "Since Toyota allows the rear O2 sensor a surprisingly large authority over fuel trim, you’ll want to test it carefully as well. (Many generic interfaces call out the rear O2 sensor’s contribution to fuel trim separately under a heading such as FTB1S2.)"

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...ta-af-sensors/

Right now, my downstream sensor is just hanging beside my downpipe.

As mentioned my fuel trims are out of whack. Speaking with the turbokits tech support, the issues should be resolved when the F/IC is hooked up. There is a distinct difference in how the stock MAF sensor is mounted vs in the kit cherge piping. In the stock application, the intake pipe narrows and appears to direct all of the air through the sensor. In the kit, the MAF sits in the middle of the free-flowing piping. The MAF clamp feature of the F/IC caps the voltage to around 5 volts which keeps the ECU from going snaky with higher voltage inputs.

Pic of the MAF housing in stock airbox:



I'm continuing to try to figure out all possible causes of my high trims - or maybe more appropriately, what factors could contribute to a lean condition. With the valve cover vented to atmosphere, it draws fresh air into the crankcase as the PCV vacuums out the combustion byproducts. Because this new air from the valve cover breather is then drawn into the manifold via the PCV system, it could be considered unmetered air. I have been receiving a number of different theories and suggestions from different sources. One guy says that I should be fine with my current setup as the crankcase has nothing to do with the vacuum system. Another source says that introducing air directly into the crankcase via the valve cover breather will definitely introduce unmetered air and make the car run lean. The guy who will be tuning my car says to remove (block off) the PCV system at the manifold and PCV valve (at block) and run my catch can with a breather on it on the valve cover breather. Yet another source suggests, blocking the manifold PCV intake, removing the PCV and putting a breather on that along with my valve cover breather. Lots of suggestions!

On another note, I have been advised to not attempt to have the F/IC control the VVTi and with regard to timing, all that's needed is the crank sensor at the relatively low boost that this kit will have.

I will also be changing my source of power to the F/IC from my original proposed pin 28 on connector A21 to the #1 EFI switched/fused circuit.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:53 PM   #238
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Turbo Oil Drain Upgrades and Overall Wiring Diagram

I'm in the process of upsizing my oil drain. I started at around a 9.8mm diameter, then 12mm and finally 14mm (left to right). The 14mm bore should be able to handle 2 to 2.5 times as much oil as the 9.8mm bore. I'll be going from 1/2" drain to 5/8" and a shorter and straighter shot to the pan.



Unfortunately, my package depot lost my 45 degree fitting which is a major inconvenience as I'll have to wait another week to finish the drain. Big bummer.

I printed, spliced and laminated the wiring diagram pages into one long document. This is the Engine Control schematic, with the long narrow blue bar representing a portion of the car's ECU.

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Old 06-15-2019, 10:00 PM   #239
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More on the new drain and Oil temp sensor port

My drain is finished. I put the pan back on this evening so I'll test the drain tomorrow with the clear tubing and if leak free and smoke free, I'll replace the clear tube with the braided hose.

Almost lined up. I'm going to reclock the turbo CHRA. It is about 8 degrees off vertical. The drain fittings should line up near perfectly with the turbo clocked back to vertical.

I had to bevel off the 45 galvanized fitting as it wouldn't turn without hitting the block. Most of the threads a well below the collar that I ground off. The barbed fitting isn't cranked down in yet, just test fitting for alignment. I have tons of clearance above the axle. The outboard end of the axle would basically have to be sticking out the quarter panel to even get close to my drain.





Oil temp sensor port drilled out to 11/32"



Tapping



Temporary sensor in pan. This is an old sensor I had left over from some cheap Chinese gauges I have on my shelf collecting dust. I'll drain my oil and replace with the actual sensor from whichever gauge I buy. I like the positioning of the sensor - right below the turbo drain. In this location, I should get nearly the highest reading in the lube system.



Sensor in with Permatex thread sealant. Pan reinstalled. Hopefully no leaking at pan or sensor.

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Old 06-16-2019, 01:21 PM   #240
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Breakthrough on Fuel Trims...maybe

I was taken by suprise on this one. I finished up my drain with the test hose so thought I'd check the oil flow. A little backstory first...

I wasn't sure the car was going to start with the new injectors in it. I cranked the car over and could immediately smell a very strong gas odor and the car would not start. Fuel was pissing from my fuel rail. So, I pulled the rail off and the injectors out and 3 of the o-rings were torn/squished. They did seem a little tight going in but no tighter than taking them out. The reason I didn't swap out the o-rings from the stock injectors was because the Deatschwerk o-rings on the injectors looked identical in size. Anyway, I swapped in the stock o-rings. The injectors seemed very loose in the fuel rail and I was worried that I'd have to order new o-rings. I know that the rail bolts hold the rail in place but I figured with as loose as the injectors were, I'd definitely have a leak. Well, they sealed perfectly and the rail is still bone dry after a good 20 minutes of running the car.

The great news - I hope - is that my fuel trims have leveled out nicely. STFT oscillates between 0.0 and - 0.8. LTFT is still creeping down from it's +29 to around - 5.5 in the short time running. I would expect it to run a little rich and the ECU to pull a little fuel with the larger injectors, so this looks promising. The F/IC is still not installed. I do not understand how the larger injectors leveled the trims as the car is running well out of boost and there are no other variables that I am aware of.

Also, on a positive note, my oil drain seems to work much better and I have no smoking anymore at either Idle or 3500 - 4000 rpm.

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Old 06-17-2019, 12:04 PM   #241
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Great news!
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Old 06-17-2019, 12:10 PM   #242
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Awesome news!

I know NPT threaded parts are cheap and readily available at the local hardware store but they suffer from the exact problem you had--limited flexibility when installing in a tight place. There are a few other standards out there from the hydraulics world that might make your life easier should you need to revisit or clean up the plumbing: SAE, JIC, O-ring boss, etc. The ones with an angled/flared end can usually be clocked any way you need and tightened down without rotating the connection. You can usually get custom hoses with the connectors crimped at a local hydraulics supply for a modest price once you nail down the placement of the connectors.

How much longer before this thing can go out and terrorize your neighborhood? =D
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:25 PM   #243
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great to hear the FT's smoothed out. I'm really surprised as to how a potential fuel leak could have caused this issue as it should have run rich not lean, but either way glad it seems settled.

I guess the issue with your turbo oiling wasn't too much oil going in but not going out at a fast enough rate? That said, is it possible you had too much oil supplied to the turbo where you need such a large drain tube? I can't see too much oil being a problem as long as you can drain it adequately, it just seems like a much larger diameter drain tube than I have ever seen before.

After following your in depth turbo build I fully understand why long time track rats tend to say that an all engine build is superior to a boosted set up for a track car. This is by no means knocking your turbo build - I think it is awesome and will be a completely original and fun DDer - I just mean from a track car point of view. Many more fittings for potential oil leaks and therefore dangerous and costly fires (which happen a fair amount at the track). More heat to have to cool and many more fittings and parts to have to constantly check to ensure it is all working fine.

Obviously this is a bigger chore in a car that was NA form the factory, but I can see why people talk about turbo'd Miatas constantly needing work and they tend to be down more than they're running.

Good work thus far, I'm excited to hear about your thoughts on driving it once it is fully functional.

Side note - I would recommend you purchase a fire extinguisher to have in your car once it is fully operational. All it takes is a small oil leak to cause a fire that can write off your car, vs a small mess to clean up and some wire to repair.
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:26 PM   #244
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Great news!
Getting pumped here! LOL!
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:31 PM   #245
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Awesome news!

I know NPT threaded parts are cheap and readily available at the local hardware store but they suffer from the exact problem you had--limited flexibility when installing in a tight place. There are a few other standards out there from the hydraulics world that might make your life easier should you need to revisit or clean up the plumbing: SAE, JIC, O-ring boss, etc. The ones with an angled/flared end can usually be clocked any way you need and tightened down without rotating the connection. You can usually get custom hoses with the connectors crimped at a local hydraulics supply for a modest price once you nail down the placement of the connectors.

How much longer before this thing can go out and terrorize your neighborhood? =D
Great advice Sam! I really just started fooling around with what I could source locally. I didn't expect it to work well and it's a bit of a hack job. That said, it seems leak free, flows very well, but I'll def keep my eye on it for leaking. If it holds up well, I may leave it as it's well hidden away there. Then again, my tuner might take one look at it and insist that I do something different. We shall see.

Well, I have an appointment for my exhaust work in a week and a bit, then my dyno tuning session on 15 July, so I'm gonna say I'll be in terror mode on 15 July! Though, for the first while, the terror will be mine. LOL!
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:49 PM   #246
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great to hear the FT's smoothed out. I'm really surprised as to how a potential fuel leak could have caused this issue as it should have run rich not lean, but either way glad it seems settled.

I guess the issue with your turbo oiling wasn't too much oil going in but not going out at a fast enough rate? That said, is it possible you had too much oil supplied to the turbo where you need such a large drain tube? I can't see too much oil being a problem as long as you can drain it adequately, it just seems like a much larger diameter drain tube than I have ever seen before.

After following your in depth turbo build I fully understand why long time track rats tend to say that an all engine build is superior to a boosted set up for a track car. This is by no means knocking your turbo build - I think it is awesome and will be a completely original and fun DDer - I just mean from a track car point of view. Many more fittings for potential oil leaks and therefore dangerous and costly fires (which happen a fair amount at the track). More heat to have to cool and many more fittings and parts to have to constantly check to ensure it is all working fine.

Obviously this is a bigger chore in a car that was NA form the factory, but I can see why people talk about turbo'd Miatas constantly needing work and they tend to be down more than they're running.

Good work thus far, I'm excited to hear about your thoughts on driving it once it is fully functional.

Side note - I would recommend you purchase a fire extinguisher to have in your car once it is fully operational. All it takes is a small oil leak to cause a fire that can write off your car, vs a small mess to clean up and some wire to repair.
Hey Trevor. The car never ran with the leaking fuel rail. The high trims were with the stock injectors.

The turbokits guys sent me a restrictor and I've read that some journal bearing turbos do use them if the drain has been confirmed good. From my reading, this size turbo should ideally have a 14mm + drain. Initially, I was around 9.8mm and I'm now close to 14mm. I do believe that the turbo CHRA couldn't drain off the oil fast enough and I wanted to confirm that was the issue before I went ahead with the restrictor, which is a Vibrant (0.06", 0.045" and 0.030" adjustable with pills.). If I get smoking on steep hills or otherwise, I plan to drill out the Vibrant restrictor to 0.080" or 0.090". Right now the oil supply fitting that came with the turbo is 0.118" (around 3mm). I think I have enough drain to handle a very solid oil flow.

I get your points about a track vs turbo track car. I hope that the turbo 2ZR auto will prove to be a fun DD. And, yes!, I have a fire extinguisher. Any leaks that I get in my drain plumbing (zero pressure) would likely not get anywhere near the manifold or turbine housing and drip down to cooler areas. But, yeah, if say the oil feed line broke and started spewing oil onto the manifold/turbine, I bet it could make quite a fireball.

As an aside, I have a lot of reflective fiberglass heat shield tubing that I'll be putting on all the lines (oil supply, water lines, upper drain area etc). Fortunately, all hoses and supply lines are well clear of the really hot parts.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:21 PM   #247
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Ordered gauges today...

After lots of searching, I decided to go with Prosport Performance Series gauges. The reason...budget and the fact that I found an amazon listing for the oil temp gauge at $13.00/ea (regularly ~ $50.00 a pop - must be a closeout, or something). So, I ordered 2 of those; one for oil temp and one for trans temp. I also ordered an electrical oil pressure gauge. Not bad, I guess for around $110.00 CAD. I read a bunch of reviews and people were generally very positive about them. I expect that they are a competitor for the Glowshift gauges. I think I'll order the eBay 3 pod gauge as well. So for around $160.00 CAD, I'll have my gauges installed on the A-pillar. I didn't really wan to mount them there, but there aren't many other good locations Also, discovered that Princess auto has all their multi color primary wire on sale this month. Bonus!



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Old 06-18-2019, 07:33 PM   #248
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Transmission temp sensor housing

I decided to build my own rather than wait for parts ordered online. I found a 1/2"NPT x 1/8"NPT tee at a local hardware store. This is better than other offerings, IMO, as the interior of the fitting is larger so the sensor probe will not restrict fluid flow in any way. I had a couple 1/2"NPT x 3/8" barb fittings. Although this is a bit of a heavy rig, it will be supported by the hose over the brass barbs with my rubber coated P-clips (these things have been indespensible in my build) bolted to the subframe. I wrapped the fitting with a piece of rubber hose around the contraption as it will be contacting the subframe, tightly though, so there should be no chafing. I've always had good luck with the Permatex Ultra Black as a thread sealant - especially larger, more coarse threads. I'll monitor the zip ties and if they look like they're not handling the heat, I'll use a couple of my steel zip ties. The nylon ties have a melting point over 400F, so the should be fine. Even if they did come off, the rubber hose is glued on with the Ultra black and the whole unit is held tightly against the frame with the P-clips. I can't see the rubber going anywhere. On the sensors (1/8"NPT), I'll use my Permatex High Heat Thread Sealant. The old sensor in there is just a temporary seal until my gauges arrive.

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Old 06-21-2019, 05:34 PM   #249
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Evap Hose and Oil Catch Can

I installed my catch can and because I didn't have any hose, I picked up some rubber fuel hose from the local parts store. It seemed quite firm, but completely failed under vacuum. It basically sucked flat. So, I went to a local hydraulics shop and picked up some Pulsar 4000 psi hose. Not cheap at ~ $5.95/ft, so thankfully I only needed about 2.5 ft. They had some cheaper stuff at $2.49/ft but it was heavily steel reinforced rubber and I was worried that I wouldn't get a good seal with a clamp as it was so rigid, plus it seemed less flexible than the Pulsar stuff. The Pulsar hose appears to be constructed with a very thick teflon liner. I tested it with my 3/8" barb fittings and it seals well. It may not even require a clamp, but I'll put one on for good measure.

I had no idea that the vacuum produced by a car could completely flatten a rubber hose. These is no way that this Pulsar hose will even be slightly deformed by the vacuum. It's designed to handle 4000 psi (outward pressure of course), but I could barely deform it squeezing as hard as I could. I'll report back on how it holds up.





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Old 06-22-2019, 05:54 PM   #250
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Turbo Drain...Take 3...

When I designed my new turbo drain, I thought I'd accounted for enough room of axle movement vertically and horizontally. I had taken into account the fact that the car's suspension was fully extended as the car was on jackstands. After lowering the car onto blocking today, I had about the clearance that I was expecting but I'm not fully confident that in an extreme braking situation combined with a bump that the axle would clear the fittings. This would be particularly devastating as the galvanized fittings would smash forward and probably take a chunk of the block (where the oil pan inlet is) with it.

So, I removed a couple of the fittings and went straight vertical with the hose and joined the 45 under the turbo. There is a good curve but smooth and the hose has fully retained it 'roundness'.

***Nerd Alert***: I took some measurements:

3.5" upward vertical deflection for outboard of axle to contact frame. The is a little indentation in the frame, presumeably in the event of the worst possible nose-down scenario combined with running over a log or something for the maximum possible deflection.

22" from inboard CV joint to area where axle would contact the frame - a highly unlikely event. The axle is close to 28" hub to hub (excluding the splined sections), so the wheel would basically have to be well into the engine bay, I'd think, by the time the axle bottomed out on the frame.

6" from inner CV hub to where drain line crosses over axle.

1.75" vertical distance between drain line and axle.

Using a slope calculator, I should have more than adequate clearance. Also, as the wheel hub deflects up and down from center, the pivot point of the axle would move outboard, allowing me even more space between the axle and drain line. I will wrap a bit of tape around the drain hose just above the axle and check it for evidence of contact. Even if it did make contact, it's now going to hit a flexible line as opposed to steel fittings.

I have about 1" clearance horizontally between the pan fittings and axle. When I had the rear lower mount (dog bone) out, I could rock the engine and forward until it hit the radiator and rearward until it hit the subframe. Even with these extreme movements, the axle would not contact my drain line. The engine will likely tilt forward at the top due to the mount geometry. I did stiffen my dogbone mount, so I expect movement near the inner axles will happen but it should be pretty minimal. That said, I might turn the galvanized elbow in another turn just to be super safe. The axle should tend to move away from the drain as the bottom of the engine torques forward, while accelerating in a forward direction. I guess there's no real way to know. Maybe I need a GoPro. lol






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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Racing axleback, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Edvs_TSGkY
2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
2011 Kia Sedona LX

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 06-22-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 01:45 PM   #251
Maritime
 
Drives: 2008 yaris 5dr hatch
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Nice work as always. so close to the day it is fully set free to roar down the road.
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Old Yesterday, 10:28 PM   #252
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 2006 Yaris RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maritime View Post
Nice work as always. so close to the day it is fully set free to roar down the road.
Thanks! Yup, getting close. Getting excited for sure.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Racing axleback, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Edvs_TSGkY
2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
2011 Kia Sedona LX
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