Abysmal perfromance of 2005 Vitz RS - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

ncp13 · 01-25-2017, 09:07 AM

Well if emissions is not a problem in NZ maybe you should backdate your ecu and throtle to gen 1 :)
Or try those kits that remove the lazynes from the systems with e-throtle.

Good luck

SlowVitzRS · 02-01-2017, 03:46 AM

Success!

The 1ZZFE throttle body conversion fixed the throttle response and power drop after 5k rpm.

Here is the write up:
http://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-and-...ttle-response/

invader166 · 02-01-2017, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowVitzRS

Success!

The 1ZZFE throttle body conversion fixed the throttle response and power drop after 5k rpm.

Here is the write up:
http://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-and-...ttle-response/

Great write-up! Really informative.

If you're not looking to get a new intake manifold, you could also buy a throttle body spacer, and shave it a bit to match the diameter of the 1ZZ throttle body. Sadly that would also mean having to get longer hoses...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X714-A-THROT...-/272517091875

SlowVitzRS · 02-01-2017, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by invader166

Great write-up! Really informative.

If you're not looking to get a new intake manifold, you could also buy a throttle body spacer, and shave it a bit to match the diameter of the 1ZZ throttle body. Sadly that would also mean having to get longer hoses...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X714-A-THROT...-/272517091875

I am looking at getting a spacer cut out of 6 or 8mm alloy plate and have slope ground in the opening to match two diameters in a gradual fashion.

SirDigby · 02-01-2017, 08:55 PM

ncp13 · 02-02-2017, 04:08 AM

I am thinking that maybe your throtle body was defective and not opening as much?

I have tried 1ZZ cable throtle body on my 1nz and I did not see much.I lost low end throtle response and it was happy at high rpm.

Its great that you got the power back.

SlowVitzRS · 02-03-2017, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ncp13

I am thinking that maybe your throtle body was defective and not opening as much?

I have tried 1ZZ cable throtle body on my 1nz and I did not see much.I lost low end throtle response and it was happy at high rpm.

Its great that you got the power back.

Nope, throttle was not defective (otherwise it would thrown a code).
What actually is wrong in my opinion is not the throttle size, but throttle map. the 1ZZFE throttle due to size simple overrides map as 70% opening might as well be 100% (compared to original). Toyota gimped too much the throttle map.
I can bet I would got the same result with a throttle controller.

With manual throttle if you give it 100% it is guaranteed to be 100%. With drive-by-wire not so much. Drive by wire were introduced because this way they can reduce emissions during transients (ie when you plant your foot down suddenly), and smooth out torque curve to make it more flat (at expense of peak power).

SlowVitzRS · 02-11-2017, 08:09 PM

A follow up:

I discovered that on cold the idle would shoot up to >3k and sometimes would oscillate.
There also was an occasional harsh overrun transition.

Since then I have made a plate up and fitted between the 1ZZFE throttle body and 1NZFE manifold, this serves two purposes:
1) Ensure the O-ring seals properly
2) Provide a smooth transition between two diameters.

To remedy the oscillation I turned adjuster screw 3 times counter-clockwise.

Here is the write up:
http://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-thro...ting-out-bugs/

SirDigby · 02-12-2017, 03:00 PM

yeah that's pretty high. I turned mine until it was idling at like 1800. I turn it wile the engine was running. at warm idle it was at like 450, and it threw a check engine light. I would bump the screw about 1/4-1/3 of a turn at a time until the check engine light stayed off. took like 2-3 times to get it right. at very cold it will start at 2400 for about 3 seconds, then drop to 2000-2100. after about 20-30sec it will drop to 1600-1800. at full warm idle is 550.

02-01-2017, 08:55 PM	#23
SirDigby View User's Garage Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Denver, Colorado Posts: 1,000	I made my own spacer. it was a pain, but it turned out awesome and it was fun! (no longer hoses required) http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55767 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56265 and you should port your manifold. or you can buy mine in April when I sell it. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6102 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/alb...pictureid=6101 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6100 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6103 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6104 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6105 http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/pic...pictureid=6107 Last edited by SirDigby; 02-01-2017 at 09:14 PM.

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01-25-2017, 09:07 AM	#19
ncp13 Drives: 01 Yaris TS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Athens Greece Posts: 92	Well if emissions is not a problem in NZ maybe you should backdate your ecu and throtle to gen 1 :) Or try those kits that remove the lazynes from the systems with e-throtle. Good luck

02-01-2017, 03:46 AM	#20
SlowVitzRS Drives: 2005 Vitz RS Manual Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: New Zealand Posts: 12	Success! The 1ZZFE throttle body conversion fixed the throttle response and power drop after 5k rpm. Here is the write up: http://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-and-...ttle-response/

02-02-2017, 04:08 AM	#24
ncp13 Drives: 01 Yaris TS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Athens Greece Posts: 92	I am thinking that maybe your throtle body was defective and not opening as much? I have tried 1ZZ cable throtle body on my 1nz and I did not see much.I lost low end throtle response and it was happy at high rpm. Its great that you got the power back.

02-11-2017, 08:09 PM	#26
SlowVitzRS Drives: 2005 Vitz RS Manual Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: New Zealand Posts: 12	A follow up: I discovered that on cold the idle would shoot up to >3k and sometimes would oscillate. There also was an occasional harsh overrun transition. Since then I have made a plate up and fitted between the 1ZZFE throttle body and 1NZFE manifold, this serves two purposes: 1) Ensure the O-ring seals properly 2) Provide a smooth transition between two diameters. To remedy the oscillation I turned adjuster screw 3 times counter-clockwise. Here is the write up: http://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-thro...ting-out-bugs/

02-12-2017, 03:00 PM	#27
SirDigby View User's Garage Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Denver, Colorado Posts: 1,000	yeah that's pretty high. I turned mine until it was idling at like 1800. I turn it wile the engine was running. at warm idle it was at like 450, and it threw a check engine light. I would bump the screw about 1/4-1/3 of a turn at a time until the check engine light stayed off. took like 2-3 times to get it right. at very cold it will start at 2400 for about 3 seconds, then drop to 2000-2100. after about 20-30sec it will drop to 1600-1800. at full warm idle is 550.