Wheel removal - Toyota Yaris Forums

vwhugger · 02-19-2017, 01:12 PM

This is kind of a stupid question but why do I have such a hard time removing the wheels on my Yaris'? I usually rotate the tires around 10k miles give or take and I usually need to take a sledge and give them a sharp blow to unloosen them from the hub. I've put ant-seize, etc on them but to no avail. Never had a problem with other vehicles that I've owned.

bronsin · 02-19-2017, 01:42 PM

There is a very close fit on the wheels between the hub of the brake drum/rotor and the wheel itself. Im thinking if you put anti seize on this spot there woudnt be a problem. Put it on the hub and on the wheel.

I see you live where theres a lot of salt/snow on the roads in winter. Thats the problem.

Good luck and tell us what happens!

vwhugger · 02-19-2017, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronsin

There is a very close fit on the wheels between the hub of the brake drum/rotor and the wheel itself. Im thinking if you put anti seize on this spot there woudnt be a problem. Put it on the hub and on the wheel.

I see you live where theres a lot of salt/snow on the roads in winter. Thats the problem.

Good luck and tell us what happens!

I'll give that a shot next time. It'll be a while before I'll know though. One other thing, I was thinking of opening the center hole of the wheel a bit also.

WeeYari · 02-19-2017, 03:13 PM

I smear a thin layer of grease around the hub bore and have never had an issue with stuck wheels since I implemented the practice. This is not an application for anti-seize in my mind.

bronsin · 02-19-2017, 04:29 PM

[QUOTE=vwhugger;792585]I'll give that a shot next time. It'll be a while before I'll know though. One other thing, I was thinking of opening the center hole of the wheel a bit also.[/QUOTE

If you do open the hole just file a little. I think the close fit is to ensure concentricity.

No one else does that though, in my experience.

tmontague · 02-19-2017, 06:18 PM

I definitely wouldn't make the hub bore larger.

I just put anti seize on the hub bore and haven't had a issue since. You're likely not putting it on the correct spot hence why you're still having issues

Bluevitz-rs · 02-20-2017, 08:28 AM

The rims are what's known as Hub Centric. It's centres the rims on the hub and the lug nuts only hold it on, they don't centre it and carry the load the hub does. So because of the close tolerance of the two mating surfaces even the smallest amount of rust buildup can cause them to stick together.

So as everyone else is saying, you just need to lube up the centre.

dogsridewith · 02-20-2017, 10:12 AM

A mechanic I've watched, trust and learned from used a piece of abrasive paper to clean up the rear drum's hub and the rim center hole until the wheel slid on easily. (This was on a 2007 hatch from Gilroy CA car that seems to have never seen dirt, salt or water.) Then assembled with silver colored anti-size.

I'll say don't open up this clearance too much or you'll subject the joint to bad effects of an orbiting load (why the left bicycle pedal has left hand threading...orbit a round fence post and find it turns the opposite direction with great power) and/or change the system from hub-centered to lug-centered.

Want to see a stuck wheel? Install a newly powder coated steelie w/o first confirming the easy fit.

m.flores.0928 · 02-20-2017, 06:16 PM

Yea, don't open up the hub bore. Use some sort of thick grease or anti-seize on the hub and just leave it. Clean off the hub and wheel before reinstallation with a wire brush or something.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-19-2017, 01:12 PM	#1
vwhugger Drives: 2008 and 2012 Yaris 2dr Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NW WI Posts: 17	Wheel removal This is kind of a stupid question but why do I have such a hard time removing the wheels on my Yaris'? I usually rotate the tires around 10k miles give or take and I usually need to take a sledge and give them a sharp blow to unloosen them from the hub. I've put ant-seize, etc on them but to no avail. Never had a problem with other vehicles that I've owned.

02-19-2017, 01:42 PM	#2
bronsin Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: nj Posts: 4,790	There is a very close fit on the wheels between the hub of the brake drum/rotor and the wheel itself. Im thinking if you put anti seize on this spot there woudnt be a problem. Put it on the hub and on the wheel. I see you live where theres a lot of salt/snow on the roads in winter. Thats the problem. Good luck and tell us what happens! __________________ Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head

02-19-2017, 03:13 PM	#4
WeeYari View User's Garage Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,740	I smear a thin layer of grease around the hub bore and have never had an issue with stuck wheels since I implemented the practice. This is not an application for anti-seize in my mind. __________________

02-19-2017, 04:29 PM	#5
bronsin Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: nj Posts: 4,790	[QUOTE=vwhugger;792585]I'll give that a shot next time. It'll be a while before I'll know though. One other thing, I was thinking of opening the center hole of the wheel a bit also.[/QUOTE If you do open the hole just file a little. I think the close fit is to ensure concentricity. No one else does that though, in my experience. __________________ Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head

02-19-2017, 06:18 PM	#6
tmontague View User's Garage Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Caledonia Ont. Posts: 2,938	I definitely wouldn't make the hub bore larger. I just put anti seize on the hub bore and haven't had a issue since. You're likely not putting it on the correct spot hence why you're still having issues __________________ No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...

02-20-2017, 08:28 AM	#7
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	The rims are what's known as Hub Centric. It's centres the rims on the hub and the lug nuts only hold it on, they don't centre it and carry the load the hub does. So because of the close tolerance of the two mating surfaces even the smallest amount of rust buildup can cause them to stick together. So as everyone else is saying, you just need to lube up the centre.

02-20-2017, 10:12 AM	#8
dogsridewith Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: USAnotCA Posts: 750	tight stuck wheel removal abrasive emery sand paper fit fits hub bore drum A mechanic I've watched, trust and learned from used a piece of abrasive paper to clean up the rear drum's hub and the rim center hole until the wheel slid on easily. (This was on a 2007 hatch from Gilroy CA car that seems to have never seen dirt, salt or water.) Then assembled with silver colored anti-size. I'll say don't open up this clearance too much or you'll subject the joint to bad effects of an orbiting load (why the left bicycle pedal has left hand threading...orbit a round fence post and find it turns the opposite direction with great power) and/or change the system from hub-centered to lug-centered. Want to see a stuck wheel? Install a newly powder coated steelie w/o first confirming the easy fit.

02-20-2017, 06:16 PM	#9
m.flores.0928 Drives: 2014 Yaris Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Sonoma County Posts: 219	Yea, don't open up the hub bore. Use some sort of thick grease or anti-seize on the hub and just leave it. Clean off the hub and wheel before reinstallation with a wire brush or something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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